efi Haltech E6X Information Request...

[Rocan]

I just picked one of these up and have been doing all the research I can.

 

I have Halwin 1.26, and all of the wiring diagrams and instructions manuals provided by Haltech. They are helpful in some regard but lack a lot of specific detail.

 

Main Goals:

 

Wasted Spark Ignition (car is already setup with megajolt) 

Sequential Injection

 

I have a 318i Manifold, M20 throttle body with the rare factory TPS off the "sport automatics" (6 wire TPS)

I still need to select injectors and plumb in the fuel injection lines. Car will eventually be turbo. 

 

 

Plan:

 

Since I daily this car, I was planning on doing a parallel install to the Megajolt. First thing I need to do is get the ignition side of things up and running. Wasted spark means the EDIS 36-1 Trigger wheel and the MAP sensor built into the E6X should be enough to get this going. 

 

For the sequential injection I was planning on using a Hall effect cam trigger as a "home" signal, copying this setup: 

http://www.77e21.info/mscampossensor.htm

 

 

Questions:

 

Anyone have trigger data for this setup? Or any base maps to save me some work? 

 

I cant find any information regarding how Haltech reads a wideband; I plan to use an LC-1 controller. Some sources say that it only displays the wideband reading as a voltage? 

 

What sensors are being used? It's my understanding that the E6X doesn't allow the user to calibrate their own sensors, which means the Haltech branded (GM) sensors must be used. I know an m12x1.5 coolant sensor is available... this should fit the 318i coolant neck, correct? 

 

 

What are you guys using for an Idle air stepper motor? 

 

 

Many thanks in advance.

[roadhog0]

Personally, I'd probably sell it and get a MS3x and go that route. But does Haltech have a forum? You may look into having a cam trigger wheel made up for your cam trigger. I probably will end up going that route so be a little more accurate...

[Rocan]

It cost me 300 bucks, so it was cheap. It's a haltech, so it's reliable. I'd like the avoid MS... only other ecu I would consider is the newer Haltechs, but +700 dollars for an ECU is out of the question. $300 was justtttt right. 

 

Haltech does have a forum. Just thought I would try here first.

[Rocan]

Bump Bump

[jimk]

Go here and do some searching.

http://forums.haltech.com/viewforum.php?f=5&sid=dcb281abc9b51928951ff2694e6cb562

Download the manual here

http://www.haltech.com/downloads-2/previous-products/

Read it about 5 times carefully.

If you are a junkyard junkie, get the sensors off any GM car for peanuts compared to new.  There is most likely nothing wrong with them, even the old old ones back to 1978.

You need to check what the E6X will accept for injector impedance to the right type.  I think it will accept both high and lows.  Before you drop a lot of cash on injectors, get some off a Saab turbo for now,  They are high impedance and the right size for NA engine.  if install injectors sied for a turbo, it won't tune very well for the lower HP of the NA M10.  210cc/min are good size.  240s will be ok too.

I have spare injector sets of different sizes if interested.

[Rocan]

Hey Jim, I've been all over the Haltech forums reading up. manual has been read countless times. I'm beginning to make sense of everything. 

 

I actually just tracked down a source to get wire to match the harness so I can repair/extend my harness. 1.50 for 1 meter lengths in every color you could imagine. 

 

No local junkyards to score some cheap sensors, unfortunately. 

 

I'm torn on injectors. Apparently the E6X can do both high or low impedance without issue. A friend of mine had 7 orange top bosch (200cc/min) injectors that are pretty much brand new he was going to sell me for 30 bucks. I wanted to tune with those since it would give me better fueling across the board, but my turbo tuning genius of a friend suggested I start with the injectors I will run once turbocharged so that I wont have to make an entirely new map.

 

The ones he suggested are 4 for 160 dollars from a guy who modifies RDX injectors for higher flow rates. Apparently they have a really nice spray pattern that greatly improves atomization. 

 

 

 

Jim what trigger setup did you use? I was confused as to what the settings for the 36-1 would be. I understand that number of teeth would need to be 72 since the crank spins twice for every combustion cycle, but was confused as to what the tooth offset would be...

 

Tooth Offset:

This field is only applicable if the trigger type is Multi-tooth or Motronic. The offset 

is the number of teeth the synchronisation event occurs prior to the trigger. This 

setting also appears in the Ignition Set-up page for convenience. 

 

 

 

also trigger angle throws me off.

 

 

Trigger Angle - °BTDC 

This field defines the angle in °BTDC at which the ECU will be triggered. The ECU 

uses this value to calculate the time for the next ignition so it is important that this 

value is correct since it will affect the base ignition timing. This setting also appears in 

the Ignition Set-up page for convenience.

 

 

I suppose that these values will work, but I wanted to confirm. 

 

http://msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_EDIS.htm

 

 

I'm using the 02again trigger setup, so everything should be aligned. 

[jimk]

Send me the Bosch number (cast in the top head) and I will look it up to confirm the flow rating.  The no. would be of the series 0280150xxx.

You might also give this guy a inquiry for pricing when you decide what injectors.  I would stay away from a modified injector.  Nobody else would want to touch them for cleaning etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300512166543?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2746wt_846

The basics are all the same between systems.  I started with a F10 in 2004 and triggered off the distributor (fuel only).  Then I used an Electromotive TecII that uses a 60-2 tooth wheel on the crank.  I now still used that on the M10 and now on the S14 but after using an Electromotive TecIII and a TecGT, I now use a Haltech P1000 ECU.

MS counts their tooth setup from after the 1st tooth.  Haltech counts teeth from the missing teeth. So, start counting teeth when the first tooth just gets under the pickup.  Then turn the crank till TDC and note the tooth.  Back up about 50degrees (the 50degs is the rough in trigger angle and should always be greater than the max ign advance.)  Note the tooth where it stopped after the backup.  Thats the toothoffset.  Trigger angle then is the 50 degs for now.  So if you ad the angle developed by the tooth offset + trigger angle, it should land on TDC from the missing teeth.

When you get things going you will fine tune the trigger angle by locking the timing to 0deg (because the m10 has no 10deg mark) and shoot the TDC mark with a timing light.  Adjust the trigger angle as needed and it's set.  The ign table is then in sync with the engine.  Haltech does not come across very well to explain.  The P1000 manual is a bit better.  My tooth count was set for the Electromotive at that time and I now use the same on the Haltech.

Edited December 19, 2013 by jimk

[Rocan]

i really appreciate that explanation Jim, you really cleared things up. 

 

I've been doing some reading and realize I would need an igniter to use my EDIS coil pack. Because of this I'm considering going to LS2 coils and running them in a wasted spark configuration. Unless if a cheap ignitor is available. 

 

I figure set up LS2 coils now and going to sequential ignition will be easier in the future. 

[jimk]

Seems like some are hooked on the truck coils with heat sinks.  You might want to read thru this thread.  It's lengthy and these are experts/mfrs that often chime in on these things.

http://www.efi101.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6653&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=truck+coil&start=20

I use LS1 coils, in a fender mount.  Photo somewhere on another computer.