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Distributor Issue


simonr

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Good Day, I purchased a new Tii distributor from IE to replace a worn out 002 that came with my 1975 2002. I have installed many sets of pertronix and pulled and reset countless distributors. I installed the IE distributor and wired it up . Very simple, install Red wire to positive on the coil and black wire to negative on the coil. I have NO spark . I have checked and rechecked everything. I have the correct pertronix 3.0 OHM coil . There is 12 volts coming from the coil . The ground is solid to the engine block as well as frame from the battery.  I thought it was a bad ignitor that came with the Distributor. IE sent me a new one . It made no difference ,still no spark. I cant believe that two of them would be bad. I am stumped, these units are not rocket science. I thought I would throw it out there with you before I send this distributor back to IE. thanks for the help   

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if it helps any, I have the same distributor and I couldn't get spark either. turned out to be that the wire insulation on the ignitor was poorly manufactured (it was a perfect split) and grounded out on the case. Which of course fried my igniter. and melted the ignition positive harness.

It's never been used. Previous owner bought it from IE awhile back. So...just be careful of that. Wonder if you can get just the igniter replaced without having to purchase a whole new "kit"?

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Hmm, that sounds frustrating.  My '76 has an inline resistor-wire going to the coil.  Not sure what was done on a '75.  That wire (has a yellowish clear insulation).  A handy place to tap into power is at the splice to that resistor wire(Pertronix-Red),

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then running a new wire along side it to the coil-neg (Pertronix-Black). 

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The leads on the Pertronix unit were longer than I wanted, so I cut them and used them to tap into wiring.  Then added new connectors to the Pertronix unit.  I left it set up so it is easy to go back to points (which I have done). 

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Stating the obvious, but trying to help.  Tom

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At first I had the black neg from the pertronix into the wire that the condenser plugged into. It has two wires into one female butt. One is the Tach wire and the other is direct to the neg side of the coil. I thought there might be an issue there so I set up a direct wire from the black neg wire from the ignitor (pertronix Knock off) to the coil . it did not help. I have the ignitor direct wired from the ignitor to the coil. I will worry about the tach after I get this Toad to hop

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I guess I'm just lost as to how the factory ignition is wired up... I'd look but mine is all hacked up from PO morons. I don't have access to my PC for the diagrams either.

This is what I got out of your post, Tom.

-Splice just before the resistor for full 12v power going to your 3.0 ohm (?) coil. (allowing the option to still use the factory harness and coil with points?)

-where does the other end of the black wire that goes to coil negative go? pertronix black wire?

-didn't see mention of where the red lead goes from the pertronix. just the other positive post on the coil?

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Right now if I want to go back to points I put my old distributor back in and plug the double wire single butt neg onto the condensor and unplug the Pos and neg ignitor wires from the coil . But I want my new distributor to work. I see no need to splice into wires until I get the direct wiring to work . I just need to get this Distributor to fire  

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Just measured my voltage for the ignitor on my IE dist.  With ignition key on you should have about 11v on the pos coil terminal and about 1.5-2v on the negative terminal.  Voltage should be about the same when cranking.  If the voltage is 12 on both terminals then the ignitor is bad.  Resistance is about 8ohms for the ignitor.

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I know my igniter shows an open circuit. But I also saw it explode.

So just to verify then, the igniter is always powered, then supplies the coil ground through the distributor base as it saturates the coil. it releases ground and the coil secondary fires. That's all there should be to it, correct?

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Red lead to Pertronix is fed above factory splice, before factory resistor wire (photo).  This gives the unit full power when the key is on. 
 
Black wire from Pertronix goes to coil negative. 
 
How you get it there is up to you.  I was fortunate to have the original wiring intact.  I tried to find an easy-clean way to tap into it.  I found the answers by doing using the search function.
 
Pertronix do fail occasionally, so I kept the option of going back to points.  More work to undo it, than to leave it alone.

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