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Transmission Seals, Wet Or Dry


peterschop

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Now that I have my Getrag 245 drained of fluid with my newly made drain plug tool from parts out of the part bin,

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It is time to replace the input and output seals. I did a search but did not find what I was looking for. The Blue Book shows how the seals go in but does not say anything about putting any sealer on first. Should I smear a little Hylomar on before pressing the seals in or put them in dry?

 

TIA,

Peter

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I do my shaft seals dry on the outside and a bit of grease in the inner lip. Just did a trans input shaft that way. Recently put Hylomar on a diff side shaft seal and it was slippery and wanted to pop out. Cleaned it up and put it back in dry. YMMV. --Fred

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FB73ii said to put the seals in with a bit of grease on the inner lip but no sealant on the outside. I know that in some other cars it recommended to put a sealant such as Hylomar or Curil T on the outer lip of the seal.  

 

So should I not use sealant? Feel to chime in here and let me know what you would do. Wet or dry.

 

PS... I already did the shift rod seal. I put a little grease on the inside and nothing on the outside. I then pushed it in over top of the old seal with a 1/2" PVC pipe.

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Old seals are out and new seals go in tomorrow. I only got two reply's on whether or not to put sealant on the outside of the seals. I was hoping to get a little more feed back. Oh well, I guess I will press them in dry with a little grease packed on the inside.

 

On thing that surprised me was the instructions I read said to make sure the short bolt in the output shaft seal holder needs to be in the 1 o'clock position. My question is why would I need to remove the seal holder? I was able to fit my HF seal puller under the lip and give it a few solid whacks with a BFH and it popped out. I can just press the new one in and not have to bother removeing the cover.

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On the cap screw - it was not apparent at that point in the thread whether the holder was off.  Often it is removed and later the shifting question comes up.

On the seal OD, I apply some sealant to avoid lube weap.  Years ago there wasn't much concern over a few leaks.

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I press the seals in dry and (if stated in the Blue Book) add some wheel bearing grease to the inside lip cavity.

 

Some transmissions have a paper gasket under the output shaft bearing cover.  I have used Curil T paste on one side of the gasket with good results.

 

As Jim K. mentioned above, if the bearing cover has been removed (from the 5 speed), there is one bolt that is shorter than the rest that must be installed in the 1 o'clock position (or just use all short bolts). 

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