steering and suspension Replacing Struts While On The Car

[Beach_Bum]

OK, I've read about people using this method before, but I haven't seen this specific problem.

 

I was able to successfully remove the old strut by compressing the springs and swinging it under the fender, but getting the new strut (Bilstein Sport) into the cartridge and back under the fender is quite the challenge. It slides into the cartridge easy enough, but the problem is that I'm unable to compress the strut piston to get it back under the fender. Is there a trick to this?

 

I must confess that the reason I've chosen to do it this way is because I've never safety-wired anything and I'm scared to deal with it

[turbophil]

I've never done it the way you are trying but with a ratchet strap you should be able to compress the shock.

[TobyB]

...or install it through the hole that the strut top leaves...

 

t

[turbophil]

...or install it through the hole that the strut top leaves...

 

t

 

Even better

[Beach_Bum]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

 

The problem with installing it through the top is getting the spring, hat, and camber plates over the piston while inside of the fender.

['76mintgrün'02]

I guess you re not wanting to remove the ball joint from the control arm... maybe remove the control arm with the assembly and put it all in once it is together?  Just be sure to torque those bolts with weight on the wheels.  I guess you would be bleeding the brakes as well this way, but just a thought.

[Beach_Bum]

I guess you re not wanting to remove the ball joint from the control arm... maybe remove the control arm with the assembly and put it all in once it is together?  Just be sure to torque those bolts with weight on the wheels.  I guess you would be bleeding the brakes as well this way, but just a thought.

 

Yes, I've never safety-wired anything, so I'm hesitant to cut it.

 

I wanted this to be a quick weekend project, but the more I think about it, I may just bite the bullet and cut the wire and replace the control arm and ball joint and pull everything out. Then, while I'm waiting for the parts to arrive, I can paint the strut housings with POR15 and clean everything up under there.

 

I'll just have to buy some safety wire pliers and read up on how to wire properly.

[eurotrash]

are your ball joints bolted or (still) riveted in?  If they ahve ever been replaced, they will be bolted in.  There are three nut/bolts under the bottom end of the control arm.  and these typically aren't safety wired...  disconnect the steering with a few whacks to the idler arm end, and you can just lift the whole strut out.  no cutting the safety wire..

 

[Conway]

Go ahead and cut the wires.  I too was nervous about safety wiring.  There are some videos on youtube on how to do it.  I watched a couple of those and went at it.  nothing has fallen off so far!  knock on wood......

[KFunk]

I just push down on the strut hard by hand to compress it, and quickly move it inward.  A third or 4th hand may help, but I've done without.  It's not terribly easy, and paint may get scratched.

 

The reason I've done it this way is that all the lower safety wired bolts were all seized/rounding off, and I didn't want to cut/drill them all out and replace them with new. 

[Beach_Bum]

are your ball joints bolted or (still) riveted in?  If they ahve ever been replaced, they will be bolted in.  There are three nut/bolts under the bottom end of the control arm.  and these typically aren't safety wired...  disconnect the steering with a few whacks to the idler arm end, and you can just lift the whole strut out.  no cutting the safety wire..

 

 

 

Interesting, I didn't realize that. I'll have to check when I get home tonight how the ball joints are attached. Thanks for the tip!

 

Go ahead and cut the wires.  I too was nervous about safety wiring.  There are some videos on youtube on how to do it.  I watched a couple of those and went at it.  nothing has fallen off so far!  knock on wood......

 

I've been watching some today, and I just picked up some safety wire pliers from Harbor Freight just in case.

 

What size wire did you use?

 

I just push down on the strut hard by hand to compress it, and quickly move it inward.  A third or 4th hand may help, but I've done without.  It's not terribly easy, and paint may get scratched.

 

The reason I've done it this way is that all the lower safety wired bolts were all seized/rounding off, and I didn't want to cut/drill them all out and replace them with new. 

 

I tried that last night but the piston comes back too fast to get everything assembled.

[M3M3M3]

 

Go ahead and cut the wires.  I too was nervous about safety wiring.  There are some videos on youtube on how to do it.  I watched a couple of those and went at it.  nothing has fallen off so far!  knock on wood......

 

+1

it is FAR easier to just take those three bolts off and do the whole operation off the car. safety wire is not a big deal. heck, i don't even use it. red locktite and proper tq covers it.

[williamggruff]

I always remove the long bolts that connect the control arms to the front subframe, as well as the front sway bar bolts.  The struts are easy to remove from the wheel well, and easy to reattach.  I used this approach to replace the upper strut bearings in the Team Sauregurkenzeit Lemons car last Saturday evening at the 24 Hours of Lemons race at Loudon, New Hampshire.  Easy peasy, and no special tools or heavy exertion required.

[Beach_Bum]

 

 

+1

it is FAR easier to just take those three bolts off and do the whole operation off the car. safety wire is not a big deal. heck, i don't even use it. red locktite and proper tq covers it.

 

What is the proper torque for the three bolts? I've come across one suggestion of 18 lb/ft through search.

 

I always remove the long bolts that connect the control arms to the front subframe, as well as the front sway bar bolts.  The struts are easy to remove from the wheel well, and easy to reattach.  I used this approach to replace the upper strut bearings in the Team Sauregurkenzeit Lemons car last Saturday evening at the 24 Hours of Lemons race at Loudon, New Hampshire.  Easy peasy, and no special tools or heavy exertion required.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I had the sway bars disconnected, but still wasn't getting enough clearance. I'll take a look at removing the long bolts when I get home tonight.

[AustrianVespaGuy]

This is actually a project that I'm just about to embark on also so while we're on the topic I'd like to verify what seems to be the consensus as to the proper method.  Please correct any steps that aren't right:

1.) Jack up, jack stands, etc.

2.) Remove wheel and brake caliper (hang out of the way, no need to disconnect hydraulics)

3.) Cut the safety wire and undo the three bolts holding the strut to the control arm

4.) Separate tie rod end from front knuckle.

5.) Undo three top mount bolts on top of fender well

6.) Remove if enough clearance, if not, go to steps 7 and 8.

7.) Disconnect stabilizer bar link from control arm

8.) Disconnect control arm and radius link from front subframe.

 

That all sound right?  Also, does anyone know where to get new spring pads/seats?  I figure I ought to replace those while I have everything apart.  Thanks!

 

-Carl