engine and drivetrain Update On Shifter Rebuild Project

[worzella]

Just wanted to add an update on my progress for my '75 shifter rebuild project. I asked some questions on this previous post:

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/145872-shifter-rebuild-bush-questions/

 

about availability of various bushes and sleave bearings for the shift connecting

 

rod.

 

The support bracket on the tranny side has a rubber bush with a steel sleave and it is not available alone, but one must buy a whole new bracket. The above post suggested using the one from AKG and I ordered it... but was disappointed for the $15 for two pieces of plastic. They send two flange sleave bearings ("tophat") that slide in either side of the bracket hole. Hoever, the width of the two together requires you to spread the mounting piece a bit... no big deal, I could grind down the length a bit. But the biggest two problems are the outside diameter of the sleave bearing is much smaller than the bracket hole, so there wil be much slop in that and the inside diameter for the bolt is also much bigger than the bolt, so added slop. I could drill out the moutning piece and use  a bigger bolt, still sloppy...

 

My recommendation.. $15 lesson learned... shell out the 20-30 bucks and just buy a new bracket with the built in rubber bush.

 

Next item i nthe post was the two sleave bearings on each end of the shift connector rod, one connecting to the lower shift unit and the other conecting to the tranny side piece. These are not available either so I went to Lowes which has lots of "tophat" flanged sleave bearings.. but all non-metric... the problem with restoring a German car in America!

 

But I googled the hell out of metric flange sleave bearings and found a great source.. Igus of Germany. They had a sample link and I orderd 4 ID10 OD 12 flange sleave bearings and they just arrived. The ID of 10 is dead on and fits perfectly, but the OD od 12 is 1mm shy of what it should be. However, I think it will work fine.. ideally an ID10 OD 13 would be golden, but they did not offer that.

 

So I think I can use two of these tophat sleave bearings for these connection rod setups...

 

OK... one more thing.. I did also order the AKG mounting blocks for the tranny side connection of the

shift platform. They arrived and instead of a rubber bush with metal sleave like the originals, they have plastic tophat sleaves, one on each side. This ought to be OK, but I think the rubber bush like the original would be better.

 

However, since I spent the money I wil luse the AKGs, but I would recommend going with Blunts OEM part which is actually $3 cheaper per than I paid....

 

Onward !

 

 

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

Sounds like progress.  I believe Andrew provided a link to my solution in your previous posting.  I modified standard bronze bushings to replace the metric plastic ones, due to worn parts.  I bedded the bushings in JB-Weld, which might help with the 1mm difference you are describing.  Way to persevere!

 

http://s1082.photobu...hifter rebuild/

[peterschop]

Your post came at a good time since I am also going through the same procedure. I was looking at the AMG Motorsports Products. They are made out of Delrin which looks like plastic. The bush for the support rod/bracket sounds like it is too small from your description. Not good. Both BMW and Penske Parts list the rod for $53. A little pricey to replace a worn out rubber bush on a good bracket. 

 

The AMG mounting blocks are also made of Derlin instead rubber like the BMW ones. BMW wants $38 each for them while Blunttech is $35 for both. My thought was to clean the rubber bush out of my old blocks and fill with epoxy. I would then drill the center out to insert the old metal sleeve. 

 

I like '76Mintgrun'02 idea for replacing the shift rod bush with a couple of bronze bushes. I think I will go to the hardware store today and look for the right ones.

 

['76mintgrün'02]

The bronze bushings were 1/2"OD with a 3/8"ID by 1" long with a 5/8"OD by 1/16" flange.

 

They were each cut to .390" for a total of .780" when stacked. This leaves just enough clearance for the washer and clip.

 

I rebuilt my shifter before I had a lathe, so I chucked a wooden dowel in a hand drill, tapered the end slightly and pushed the bushing on until snug; then held it against the table while spinning to true it up; before taking it to the disc sander to dial in the length. 

 

They were then drilled out to 25/64" and honed to fit the shafts with a 3/8" DREMEL stone.

I made this clamping fixture for the drill press (hardwood would do too).

 

[jgerock]

Interesting ideas.  Using bronze bushings will certainly get rid of any slop/play, but may transmit noise and vibration that may become tiresome.  Delrin is a good alternative but to each their own.

[gregpark]

My shifter went floppy and I dug this thread up. Went with the bronze "top hat" bearing bushings from Ace hardware. They needed to be reduced in OD by an eight inch and I don't have a lathe but have a drill press. Put a bolt through with nuts on the ends and chucked it up in the press. I held a file to the bushing and checked it with my calipers until I was happy. Greased them up, stuck 'em in and viola! I forgot how tight this car used to shift! No vibration or noise with the bronze bushings BTW.

Thanks for the tip!

[Rocan]

Be cautious of using a file on a drill press... Make sure you wear safety glasses and that your file has a handle!

[gregpark]

What could POSSIBLY go wrong? just kidding, all precautions taken