Hey Kris, let me run this by ya... (long)

[Guest Anonymous]

I know for a fact that the valves on cyl#1 were closed but I dont know how close they were to opening. The car is about 25 miles away which is a serious drag but anyways, I am thinking of just pulling the head and starting over (I get the parts at cost) just because its not my car and I dont have the convience of time. Here is the steps I take when reinstalling a head tell me if I am wrong if you wouldnt mind.

set crank a TDC and the lower timing case pointer on the notch and according to the TIS CD its the second notch on the pulley when turning clockwise. When observing everything, the piston at cyl# 1 is at is top max position with the pointer on the notch. On goes the head and gasket along with the head and such. Cam's got a notch on the pulley flange which aligns with the oiler bar and the dowel pin on the bottom. Now in my case the cam gear came of the chain so I want to position the cam gear on the flange correctly along with NO SLACK on either side with the tensioner out. At this point everything is on except for the timing cover, exhaust and intake and that is what I/we have done but no luck????? On record I have built all of the previous motor's and 1 on the job so I am completly stumped. Thank you very much for even giving a shit and always being a good source and feedback...I sincerly appreciate it!

Thanks,

Chris

[Guest Anonymous]

I figured that'd get everyone's attention.. it's 1:30 am and well we're in a good mood.. me and my invisible friend... when you show up at that car.. yank the radiator out.. pop the crank pulley off.. remove the upper and lower front covers.. undo that cam gear.. inspect cam gear and crank gear for missing teeth.. please say this is a new tchain.. if not splurge and help your buddy out with the $20 for one.. next take the head off.. clean all gasket away from both surfaces.. if you can hold the head in a clamp and rotate the cam you should.. unloaded valves should be closed with excentric loose.. if you can see light then you need to proceed to stage 2.. head rebuilding.. asuming you can't see light and fluid doesn't easily leak through them then you didn't bend any.. *insert whew here* now look at your #1 piston.. it's laughing at you see.. it's doing it again.. take the crank and spin it over till the #1 piston is at the top.. forget that aligning it up with the pointer crap.. just make sure it's up!! I use a dial indicator with a magnetic base ($14 at HF) to assure myself that the slug is at the tippty tippty top.. now you build the engine around that.. take your head.. with the cam at 0 rotation.. the #1 cylinder lobes should be pointing downish.. not sideways... not loaded.. down.. throw on a NEW headgasket.. if you reuse the old one or argue that it's possible I will cast a curse of bad mojo on this engine.. beware my voodoo ways.. yeah then torque the head back on.. great life is good now.. now thread the timming chain around the crank sprocket... oh btw.. your gonna want to have put that cam gear and timming chain through the chain followers before you put the head gasket on... because the chain now is limited by the seal between the two front covers.. yeah.. read all instructions first.. needless continue with the chain.. there should be NO SLACK in the chain between the (looking at the front of the motor) cam gear and crank gear on the right side... make sure the chain is fully seated on both gears.. press it down.. make sure it's fully engaged.. it's pretty aparent if you've got it right or not.. it either lines up or not.. have friend hold tennsioner snug and then rotate the motor twice using that breaker bar and the socket I recomended earlier.. if you get a interference problem then it's probably a valve to piston interference.. your not trying to run like a e12 piston on a e21 head or a bathtub piston on something other than a 121 head are you? ok if you're still with me everything is going to plan.. "I love it when a plan comes together" now put the front covers on making sure your tensioner is functional.. then put the crank pully on.. grab a yellow paint pen.. and mark the crank pully or mark it a little low on the drivers side and another on the front cover... matching.. this will make timming the car easier with the battery relocated to the trunk... you'll actually be able to see the mark... now finish the final touches like setting valve clearances and praying to god... and set ignition timming and start it up.. VROOM VROOM!! wooohoo it makes noise!! troubleshoot 20 problems.. and then get it perfect.. enjoy... I'm spent...

[Guest Anonymous]

If you do not want to remove the head, insert a long rod in the sparkplug hole and check its highest position. That should be TDC, confirm with the notch on the pulley. My pulley has only one notch.

[Guest Anonymous]

while you have the front cover and timing chain off, that the key stock between the crank and lower timing gear is in good shape, I can't remember anyone having a prob with this but a 30 year old car you never know....Marty....