electrical and ignition I Am Looking To Install An Alarm System And Remote Door Locks.

[Tilux]

It's for a 1974 base 2002.

Has anyone done this as a DIY?

Can anyone recommend a system?

Thanks...

Bob

[Sett]

This is the kit I installed, it was simple with good directions.

 

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F-740T

 

This is the right one, sorry.

Edited October 11, 2013 by Sett

[niko k]

This is the kit I installed, it was simple with good directions.

 

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F-712T

 

How does it preform? I'm also in the market of installing one like OP

[Mike87]

I recently replaced my alarm and with it installed door locks and a trunk pop. It took a while but there is quite a lot of instructions online that you can search for. I did not take photos when I did it, so I cannot post anything relevant.

[BDB]

Tilux,

 

I've done what you're asking about and this is definitely a scope creep project!  I believe I've started/written a few posts on this topic, but in a nutshell, off the top of my head, no particular order, etc:

 

-  Any alarm system will do.  If you'd like to add a trunk release, I wrote a pretty lengthy post on the topic and bought a kit from one of the members. I highly (emphasize highly) recommend that you do the trunk pop kit.  If you add the trunk kit, you have to buy an alarm system with an Auxiliary feature (often marked "Aux" on the remote). I installed a Viper 350 and I couldn't be more happier.  

 

-  Door card refurbishing is part of the scope creep.  

-  Alignment of the windows if they don't roll or seal well enough. 

-  This website has the best tutorial on door lock/actuator install: http://www.my2002tii.com/  Search around, I'm too lazy to find it

-  You will have to run wires from the alarm system (interior cabin) to the door actuator.  You might want to install what's called a "door loom", which is that accordian looking tubing that prevents your wires from becoming frayed.  Junk yard is a good source.  You will have to drill holes too.  Use a unibit aka step drill bit

-  If doing the trunk actuator, you will need to remove the rear seats to run wires back to the actuator in the trunk.  Now's a good time as any to clean up, lay down some sound deadening, etc. while you have the seats out.  

 

The part that's really suck-y about this job is that you'll have to remove a lot of interior paneling and seats.  Keep track of all the misc door trim pieces (green things but might be grey if original).  Make sure you always disconnect the battery when doing electrical work.

[Sett]

I apologize, I posted the wrong door locks, I have corrected it.  The one with an alarm is this one.

 

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01F-740T

 

I've had no issues with my system, I got the trunk latch kit, but it wasn't strong enough to open the latch.  Some people have gotten it to work, but I haven't.

 

Steve

Edited October 11, 2013 by Sett

[lilcphoto]

I am taking a Mold Making and Casting class this term. One thing I can not stand in car alarms is the fob always looks terrible. I plan to do an alarm install with auto door locks (as my passenger side doesn't even have the key matched). With that, I thought about creating a key with built in buttons, or perhaps a switchblade style.

 

Either way, no alarm system yet, but when I was doing research on it, it didn't seem that difficult. Biggest thing is the electronic challenge, but I am pretty confident with that sort of thing. If you do decide to install it, take lots of photos and share