body and interior Por 15 Rust Prevention - Thoughts?

[dompamar]

Hello friends,

 

I am in the process of replacing both windshields. And unfortunately I cam across rust underneath the gaskets. A good friend of mine recommended POR 15 rust prevention paint. Has anyone used it? Is there something I should know before using it or is there something out there that would work better? Let me know!

 

On another note: Since I currently have my windshields out, are there certain things I should replace, check, fix etc...while they're out? I really could use a new headliner, but I'm not sure I want to tackle that at the moment. 

 

Thanks,

 

Dom 

 

PS: This is my first and only project car

[FB73tii]

Por-15 is good stuff. Use their marine clean and metal prep products for best results.

 

I replaced the headliner myself years ago and it was a real b*tch to get it to fit right. The one I bought was well made (don't recall the source), but stretching it in place with all the clips and getting the support hoops to stay in the right place took quite some time. Looked great when done, though!

 

--Fred '69 & '74tii

[dompamar]

@FB73tii

 

Thanks for the reply - Seems like POR 15 makes good products. As far as the headliner goes, I keep going back and forth on whether I should do it myself or not. I read through clay's guide and it seems like it'd be a pain. I'm assuming that if I got a quote from a upholstery shop, I'd be more inclined to do it myself as I'm sure it's spendy.  

[schoir]

Good tips for POR-15, using the metal prep and marine clean.

 

Be careful not to get any on your hands because once it cures it cannot be removed by solvent.  It can only be removed by mechanical means:  sandpaper or that skin wearing off a little.

 

You normally have to topcoat POR-15 but only if it's exposed to UV rays (sunlight).  Since what you are rustproofing is under the gaskets, it's probably not necessary.

 

I've always had the best (longest lasting, almost indefinitely) results with their original formula: gloss black.

 

Also, if you haven't used the entire container and want to close the can back up, make absolutely sure that there is no POR-15 anywhere on the lip of the can or of the cover before you seal the can.  You will not be able to open it up again by normal means if there is paint all over the place there.  Make sure the cover is on really securely otherwise the remaining paint will "turn to stone" fairly quickly.

I like to close up the can and put that can into a bigger sealed container.

 

Regards, Maurice.

[FB73tii]

.. if you haven't used the entire container and want to close the can back up, make absolutely sure that there is no POR-15 anywhere on the lip of the can or of the cover before you seal the can.  You will not be able to open it up again by normal means if there is paint all over the place there.

 

 

+1^^. It helps to put a layer of plastic food wrap between the top and the can before closing as well. --FB

Edited October 4, 2013 by FB73tii

[mdh]

Store partially used cans in the fridge!

[Buckeye]

Get a POR 15 super starter kit. It's great stuff. It should be more than enough for intended use you described. I recommend that you call them and ask if you get clear POR 15 in the starter kit. I saw some place that says clear one is better for exterior use.

Get your windshield rubber from Blunt or you local BMW dealer. You will pay a bit more and will have piece of mind. Uro makes them too, but people have had mixed results.

[algon]

 Yes, plus one to all of the above recommendations. Make sure you pour what you plan to use into a small disposable cup. If you just dip the brush into the can you will likely contaminate the can with rust and it will turn solid very quickly.

 

Por-15 only bonds well to rusted areas - not so well over paint even sanded!

[Biemenstien]

POR 15 on the undersurface of floor pans and spare tire cubby. I just finished the whole underside, rockers, floor pans, spare area and inside complete trunk space.

For what it's worth, another product KBS, I was told, was developed by a chemist that worked for the POR15 folks.

The KBS product reads, and performs the same for about a third of the price.

Old clothes, double the rubber gloves, safety glasses, cardboard on the floor. Good ventilation.

Have fun.

[BDB]

I didn't think I saw this advice given, but POR 15 needs rust to work.  Kind of weird but it does.  However, if there are big pieces of flakey rust, take a wire brush to the surface and break off the big flakes and chunks.  Then use the prep kit before actually using the POR15.  Like others have said, work in a well ventilated area and cover up your hands, arms, skin, etc.  That stuff is murder getting off!

[ndog]

vasaline <sp works 2 smear the lid before u open it.Then run the excess into the lid groove before u start.

[schoir]

POR 15 on the undersurface of floor pans and spare tire cubby. I just finished the whole underside, rockers, floor pans, spare area and inside complete trunk space.

For what it's worth, another product KBS, I was told, was developed by a chemist that worked for the POR15 folks.

The KBS product reads, and performs the same for about a third of the price.

Old clothes, double the rubber gloves, safety glasses, cardboard on the floor. Good ventilation.

Have fun.

I'm in the process of painting the underside of the floor pans, etc. with POR-15 as well.

 

What did you find that works best for removing the old cosmolene or other coating that was on the car from the factory?

 

Regards, Maurice.

[ndog]

heat, solvent ,elbow grease,repeat.reaply.heat solvent e-grease. and a highspeed scotchbright pad on a grinder

[schoir]

Thanks.  I was afraid of that answer, for good reason.

 

I would love to see pics of the underside (for inspiration).

 

Regards, Maurice.

[bmwfan]

There were some earlier posts about useing dry ice on the undercoating indicating the as it freezes it cracks and flakes off cleanly.