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Engine problems (continued)


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

well I disconnected the #1 spark plug and it runs rough. The same as disconnecting #2.

I also checked the valve clearances. The exhaust on #1 is a .011" instead of .008". Would that make a difference?

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Guest Anonymous

Hmmm . . . I would think not. I've had mine as loose as .012 w/o any real problems. I'd crank it down to .008 though since you are there. I'd check the underside of that #1 throat on the manifold for cracks again. Is there any variation of the problem with speed? Have you tried doing at least a pressure check on the #1 cylinder?

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Guest Anonymous

I looked for cracks with a mirror. none that I can see. It seems to hesitate between 2-3k rpm. Pressure testing will come next. I need to get me a compression tester.

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Guest Anonymous

have you checked the nuts/bolts on the cannon? I remember on mine I had to carve out some metal to crank them down - could one of them (most likely on the bottom) rattled loose? I had this problem myself a while back and it was a hairline crack on the manifold. I'm trying to remeber all the things my buddy the BMW master mechanic told me to check.

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Guest Anonymous

ax070403_4.jpg

what you are looking for is not weather it runs or not, it still will run even on 2 cyl. you are looking for changes. if you pull the wire and it runs the same as it did with the wire in, then you know that that cylinder is doing nothing. next stp would be to put another spark plug int he wire, while it's out and ground it while by touching to the engine (avoid fuel) to see if you are getting a spark.

steve

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Guest Anonymous

people tend to crank the top down tight and the bottom not quite so much as they are a bit harder to get to/ less leverage. Mine also has a spacing problem where you can only use an open end wrench to crank that nut as a socket will not fit. Cannon can be pretty notorious when it comes to fit. I had to send one of my manifolds back twice because various parts were so completely off.

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Guest Anonymous

How old is the dizzy? I've had this problem too. The springs in my dizzy were dead and I had to have it rebuilt. This may not be the case for you but check the following:

#1 check your timing/dwell with a light and a dwell meter

#2 check your choke settings

#3 pop the distributor cap off and see if you can crank the rotor back and forth

You're getting a lean miss and there is all sorts of variables to check in a carbed car with this going on. It can be your choke, timing, vacume leak, mixture, and a few other things. Good luck man.

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Guest Anonymous

Well I have a pertronix in there. I'll check the dwell. The timing used to be advanced right before pinging. I tried retarding the timing with no effect.

The chokes aren't connected on the dcoes

The dizzy I bought remanufactured from bosch in 1994 and have put many miles on since.

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Guest Anonymous

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good components. [bTW, IMHO, new engine =/deserves new dizzy]or a newer one. If the petronix is bad, i dont think it would result in your symptom; i think you would get no fire at all. But, i would source(borrow) a known, good, dizzy with points, recheck your plug wires!!!( they have been the bane of my existence with 2 new engines at times) triple check all electrical /ignition connections and see if you get that cylinder back. I bet this is a stupid electrical/ignition /plug/plug wire thing, instead of an internal break down ( that is my sincere hope!). let us know.

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Guest Anonymous

IMHO you have a major oil consumption issue. You may need some fine tuning if ignition and intake but none of that will change the oil issue. Get a compression tester or better yet a leakdown tester and find out what is happening with the rings and valves.

Good luck,

Jonathan T.

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