engine and drivetrain Long Shot Call For Help In Houston

[BrianBlack]

This is a long shot request for help, but I thought I should throw it out anyway.  

 

I have a 1983 320i I am supposed to be racing in the 24 Hours of Lemons this saturday in Houston and am having troubles getting the fuel system to work (K-Jetronic CIS).  We are having someone rebuild the fuel distributor right this minute, but as a plan b we are thinking of throwing on a carb setup from an 02. 

 

Would anyone in the Houston/Austin area have access to a carb and manifold for the M10?  If so, please contact me.  

 

Thanks,

 

email: briandblack(at)gmail.com

phone: 713.882.2096

[williamggruff]

Switching over to carbs might be a bit challenging, but it's certainly possible.  I've just completed my 10th Lemons race this past weekend, and am all too accustomed to addressing these sort of issues on short notice, either just prior to, or during a race.  You have my sympathies.

 

To switch over to carbs, you'll want the following, at a minimum:

 

1. A different electric fuel pump, as the K-Jet fuel pump probably puts out too much pressure for carbs.  You might get away with using a fuel pressure regulator.  I'm sure someone on here can provide insights into this issue.

 

2. An appropriate combination of intake manifold, carb, and air filter.  Best case would probably be a hogged out Cannon manifold with a Weber 38 or equivalent, but a Weber 32/36 will do you just fine.  You don't want to spend a lot of time tuning and re-jetting, so I strongly urge you to avoid going with side drafts.  A pair of side drafts will also earn you a LOT of penalty laps.

 

3. Vacuum hose to support your brake booster, unless you plan to run boosterless.

 

4. You may need an alternate water divider and associated coolant hoses to reroute coolant, though I believe the 320 water divider (part number 6 in this diagram) will support your carb plans.  There are a variety of options for connecting the coolant hoses, and they differ depending on the manifold and carb you choose.  Employ the simplest method possible given the parts on hand, and if you need to buy hoses, buy extras, and where possible, use hoses that are readily available at chain stores.

 

5. Fuel line.  You may have to extend the fuel line both in the engine compartment and from the gas tank to the existing fuel line after you switch out the fuel pump.

 

Best of luck, and have a great time at your race!  

[BrianBlack]

Thanks for the advice.  Can I assume any 7psi 12v fuel pump should work?  We do have access to some.  We did switch to a fuel cell, so the pump is easily accessible.  Yes, lines will have to be extended.

 

Plan c is to steal the 38/38 and manifold off my own 02, but hope it does not come down to that.  

 

-Brian

 

Switching over to carbs might be a bit challenging, but it's certainly possible.  I've just completed my 10th Lemons race this past weekend, and am all too accustomed to addressing these sort of issues on short notice, either just prior to, or during a race.  You have my sympathies.

 

To switch over to carbs, you'll want the following, at a minimum:

 

1. A different electric fuel pump, as the K-Jet fuel pump probably puts out too much pressure for carbs.  You might get away with using a fuel pressure regulator.  I'm sure someone on here can provide insights into this issue.

 

2. An appropriate combination of intake manifold, carb, and air filter.  Best case would probably be a hogged out Cannon manifold with a Weber 38 or equivalent, but a Weber 32/36 will do you just fine.  You don't want to spend a lot of time tuning and re-jetting, so I strongly urge you to avoid going with side drafts.  A pair of side drafts will also earn you a LOT of penalty laps.

 

3. Vacuum hose to support your brake booster, unless you plan to run boosterless.

 

4. You may need an alternate water divider and associated coolant hoses to reroute coolant, though I believe the 320 water divider (part number 6 in this diagram) will support your carb plans.  There are a variety of options for connecting the coolant hoses, and they differ depending on the manifold and carb you choose.  Employ the simplest method possible given the parts on hand, and if you need to buy hoses, buy extras, and where possible, use hoses that are readily available at chain stores.

 

5. Fuel line.  You may have to extend the fuel line both in the engine compartment and from the gas tank to the existing fuel line after you switch out the fuel pump.

 

Best of luck, and have a great time at your race!  

[williamggruff]

7 PSI is too much.  You need to be down around 2.5-3.5 PSI.  7 PSI will overpower the floats, causing flooding and possible fire.  Not good.  If you can get you hands on a fuel pressure regulator, do so.  Keep in mind that you need a low pressure, high output pump.  Carter makes a variety of them, and they're available everywhere.  I believe the model you'll want is a Carter 60504, if you need to buy one.

 

Alternatively, if your head has been replaced at some point in the past, and has the opening for a mechanical fuel pump, you could go that route.

[Emyers]

7 PSI is too much.  You need to be down around 2.5-3.5 PSI.  7 PSI will overpower the floats, causing flooding and possible fire.  Not good.  If you can get you hands on a fuel pressure regulator, do so.  Keep in mind that you need a low pressure, high output pump.  Carter makes a variety of them, and they're available everywhere.  I believe the model you'll want is a Carter 60504, if you need to buy one.

 

Alternatively, if your head has been replaced at some point in the past, and has the opening for a mechanical fuel pump, you could go that route.

 Carter P4070 is the one you want....been running one in my 02 with Mikuni 44PHH for years.

Earl

 

EDIT:  The Carter 60504 looks like an even better item....wish I had this info twenty years ago....

Earl

Edited September 26, 2013 by Emyers

[stuff]

+1 to the Carter 60504. Ran one flawlessly on my dual Weber setup.

12V

30gph flow rate

4psi fuel pressure

One inlet orifice: 8mm or 5/16 hose barb

One outlet orifice: 8mm or 5/16 hose barb

Pump body is 96mm long and 41mm in diameter

Overall length is 150mm from end of inlet barb to end out of outlet barb

[mnicktow]

I have a complete head and injection system from a 1981 e21 320i for $150 + shipping if your interested. no cut wires, computer, exhaust manifold, head, intake,  injectors everything!! open to offers also

[Brani]

Brian post here http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?143-1975-1983-(E21)

Guys will be happy to help you. There is also excellent FAQ stickied and a lot of guys in texas. From what i know fuel distributor rarely needs rebuilding. There are small mesh filters inside that get clogged but all you need is to remove em and clean them. Cracked vacuum hoses will make it run poor too. You will need 3mm long allen to adjust mixture. Good luck.

 

Brani

[Brani]

If you end up converting to carb use return line for fuel supply and wire pump like this maybe to existing fuel pump wiring.

[austinmf]

I have any 83 320is that is running. Just needs the tank flushed seats and a diff. Car is in Austin.

When you enter the next lemons

Edited September 28, 2013 by austinmf