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New engine problems


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Hey,

I have an engine that I just rebuilt. It's a 2.2L with 45DCOES. It ran great for the first 4000 miles. Now it feels like it's only running on 3 cylinders. The number 1 plug is carbon fouled. It also seems to be using more oil than it used to.

Any ideas?

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Guest Anonymous

have you done the "pull the spark wire" check to see if you are running on 3 cylindars? What intake manifold are you using? Check the underside of #1 intake and look for a crack.

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Guest Anonymous

The carbs are new and I am using a cannon manifold. I haven't tried the spark plug test but have sprayed carb cleaner to look for leaks without any luck

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Guest Anonymous

put a plug in the head and take another plug and ground it on the valve cover to see if it sparks. You may also want to check your valve clearances on #1. you might be too tight on #1.

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Guest Anonymous

The engine has total seal rings...

The first 4000 miles it used 1 quart every 300-500 miles. After 4000 I changed the oil. It went for 800 miles without using a drop of oil. Then used a quart and a half in 200 miles..

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Guest Anonymous

could be a bad thing has happened to your motor. It could be that the rings in one bore have failed. I have heard of the Total Seal rings breaking . Only way to find out other than a tear down is to do a leak down test. If air is blowing through the crankcase then that's what happened.

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Guest Anonymous

Certain rings require a different hone finish.. the hone finish/

roughness is there to "sand" the rings smooth to seat them.. it

wears away in the initial break in period.. and smooths out.. just

because you can see cross hatch doesn't mean it is a good hone

job.. I see cross hatch on engines with 80k miles on them.. but

they won't break in rings. DINGLE BERRY HONES DO NOT HONE!!!

They make pretty marks but no groves.. certain cromoly rings

require a different hone finish... total seal makes about 5

different kinds of rings for NA, turbo, nitrous, diesel etc... all

requireing a different finish to break in.. this is specified by the

ring manufacturer and it's not universal.. part of what the

machinist needs to know before doing your work....

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Guest Anonymous

Whether it's a broken ring.. worn guide.. or something.. but that is

like way overkill... my engine after I rebuilt it hasn't consumed 1/2

a quart over 6000 miles... broke in with castrol 20w-50.. and

then switched to valvoline VR1 oil...

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Guest Anonymous

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what oil did you use for break-in? sounds like you followed recommended procedures, if you had good results up to 4k miles. I guess the most inportant question is what kind of guarantee did the builder give you on the engine? I was told to use quaker state 10-30, specifically, for my break-in for 500 miles. Builder wanted thin, cheaper oil for seating. I am at 153 miles right now following the rules to the letter. I dont know whether i am going to go synthetic ( Mobil 1 15-50, or maybe even Motril? the german stuff in the gallon can), or dinosaur valovloine 20-50 after 500 miles. Opinions? I hope you discover that the problem is not bottom related when you trouble-shoot per the recommendations from the Board.

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Guest Anonymous

After rebuilding my engine, I filled it with cheap (very cheap) mineral oil. I ran the motor for about 15 minutes, and flushed the first batch of oil. Then, I ran the motor for 2 hours on 10-40 mineral oil. Flushed it. And did my first race with Mobil-One 15-50.

I did have a tiny bit of smoke at high RPM on the first day, but as soon as the rings seated properly, it ran very clean with no blowbye.

But of course it is a race engine that cannot wait 500 miles until the end of the break-in...

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