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Tii Brake Booster Install...any Pointers?? Things To Look Out For?


jrhone

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I have my Tii brake booster ready for instal and I have no clue how to do it! Lol. Seriously I have my haynes manual and it's about 3 sentences on removal and then it says "installation is te reverse". Can it be that easy??? Anyone have a write up or install instructions? How longs should this take? Debating on doing it myself or having it done. Thanks! Oh and this is going in a non Tii car.

Edited by jrhone

1976 BMW 2002 Fjord Blue Ireland Stage II • Bilstein Sports • Ireland Headers • Weber 38 • 292 Cam • 9.5:1 Pistons • 123Tune Bluetooth 15" BBS

2016 BMW 535i M Sport

1964 Volvo Amazon Wagon
http://www.project2002.com

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i ended up buying new front brake lines and a tube flaring tool to remake the front brake lines because the lengths are different between the two types.  i think you 'can' s-t-r-e-t-c-h the lines as needed to make it work, or perhaps add a short section as needed, but i wanted a clean look , and had some cash 'burning a hole in my pocket'... 

 

do a search.  there was once a post listing the applicable brake lines by P/N, as well as a  company selling the proper brake flair tool.  Note, the plastic coating on new lines makes flaring a bit of a challenge.  my flare did not look good, but it seems to be holding up.

 

 

edit: i forgot to mention that i did this conversion before i installed the engine which definitely made the conversion much simpler.  and my battery was relocated to the trunk, anyways.  hadn't considered those two important details when responding originally.

Edited by jerry

Former owner of 2570440 & 2760440
Current owner of 6 non-op 02's

& 1 special alfa

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Well, it easy in writing.. getting to all four nuts and getting the clip on the rod back can sometimes be a challange..
You probably find out that you brakelines are to short when installing the MC since the tii booster is longer..

This can be a do it your self job, 13mm and 11mm keys is´what you need.

Try get to all the 4 nut on the booster with the tools you got before you start removing everything else.

 

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yes, it really is that simple. 5 brake lines, two nuts for the MC, four nuts for the booster, one hose and a pin with snap ring.  EZ.

 

 

except.....all of those items are in practically inaccessible places, making it a PITA job, especially with the engine in the car.  my brake lines just barely reached the MC when i did the conversion. you may have to buy a couple short premade lines and some couplers to add length to a few of the cars brakes lines to be comfortable and make job easier.  any autoparts store carries them.

 

and you need a shorty 13mm open end wrench to get at one of the booster nuts so you can turn it 1/8th of a turn at a time....

 

close up all the doors in your shop and turn the music up loud so the neighbors don't hear you swearing at the one nut and the bitch clip. not kidding.....

2xM3

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No jrhone  - these cars are so simple that with some time and little swearing you can do anything. You don't need much special tools or skills - anyone can do it. But be prepared to swap in a smaller battery. And some problems with the lines when stretching them. I wouldn't start doing the swap if I really need the car next day. Marshalls' advices are all very good.

 

   Tommy

 

Haha...thx Marshall!  Nothing is ever simple on these cars is it?  

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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scope creep...don't get a smaller battery...now is the time to get an AGM battery and mount it under the rear seat.... ;)

 

also - unless you replaced the MC recently, get a new ring seal for the MC to booster connection.  chances are the old one is hard as a rock. once apart, it will not reseal to new booster causing a vacuum leak.

2xM3

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The bitch clip is on the right and I have found a way to get it to hold a screwdriver blade to help but it is still a bitch. But the clip on the left is from a e-21 (pn 34 33 1 120 538) and sure makes life easy

 

IMG_6852_zps6b42d220.jpg

 

IMG_6854_zps201f2575.jpg

 

screwdriver method, holds the clip open a bit while you put it in place and slide it off

 

Springclip5_zpscc1baa0d.jpg

Edited by BillWilliams

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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Don't laugh but I had great success with the following...

Chicken wire and match sticks. Seriously. :-)

Match sticks to replace Bill's screwdriver. One each side of clip. Thread chicken wire through fold for fishing and as safety line. No worries about dropping clip on the failed attempts. Orient clip by twisting chicken wire, slide open clip over pin and dislodge match sticks.

Fishing again...

Lower nut (by firewall) Argghh! Looped chicken wire around the head of an open end 13mm wrench. Used enough chicken wire (braided to 12" in length) to twist wrench into various positions. Left hand: Fish the wrench into position on nut. Right hand: reach down and turn wrench. Repeat many times. Still an ugly job, but faster I believe than trying to do it one-handed with a short wrench. I can hardly get my fingers in there, let alone my hand.

Call me crazy.

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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  • 2 years later...

Both MCs work fine.  and don't disassembe the MC, just disconnect it at the booster, and from there you should be able to gently manipulate the lines enough the wiggle the Tii booster in and then get the MC up on to it.  Take your time for sure!  You don't want to kink lines!!

 

Not sure about the battery.

Edited by eurotrash

2002 newbie, and dead serious about it.
(O=o00o=O)
Smart Audio Products for your 2002

 

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