engine and drivetrain oil temps?

[Guest Anonymous]

Sooooo, whats the deal with engine oil temps? Does the 'optimal' oil temp vary from engine to engine? Is there a temperature that is considered too high, regardless of engine? Too low? Too many variables to answer this question? Do you like Count Chocula as much as I do?

Reason being..I had my 02 at the track today, and had my (m20b25) oil temps approaching 240 degrees after 7 or 8 hard laps. It was hot though (for here), around 33 or 34 degrees celcius. Previous to this, I had not tracked the car, and the highest I had the oil temp was around 185. Normal operating temp on the street is around 170. Using Mobil1 15w50. Also note that it is an Autometer sender that replaces the drain plug, and I'm not very assured that its an accurate reading, as its in the front of the oilpan, and wind is directly hitting the front of the oilpan as it is below the valence.

a couple pics and a writeup of 'trackday' coming soon... first time I really drove the car since October! And me being the idiot that I am, of course I 'break it in' on the track

thx

Matt

'72 02/m20 - suckin gas and haulin ass

[Guest Anonymous]

Oil temp should be over 180, yas, but for dino (non synthetic) they usually say 220 is the high end for normal use. You're close, so if you change it after every track outing, you should be fine.

Personally, I bought an oil temp gauge years ago, and never had the guts to hook it up- I'm pretty sure I run higher than I should.

hth,

t

[Guest Anonymous]

I am currently unable to determine what my oil temp is and at this point I care, but don't want to know. As our two cars are set up in the very same way, I would venture to guess that the temps are probably identical.

The 325is oil cooler plate is an easy swap, the threaded oil filter collar can be unscrewed and the plate has a hollow bolt like that collar. As your location may vary the hoses from the standard cooler can be carfully removed (I used a dremmel tool) and custom lines can be mated to the stock cooler and 325is plate hardlines.

When I have my hoses made, I intend to install a valve that will allow me to run with, or without the cooler (winter or summer-- getting on it or putting around-- or in case of a hole in the cooler.

Then-- I will install oil temp and pressure guages. Do you have any info on the sender and guages you used?

[Guest Anonymous]

With Mobil 1 you should be fine with the temperatures you're seeing. I use Valvoline Synthetic in the race car (SCCA F Production) and typically see 250 degrees even with an oil cooler. Never have damaged the engine or had an oil related problems. My 1.8 Turbo Passat typically runs an oil temperature of 220 to 240 with synthetic oil. I would be concerned with those temperatures with dino oil.

[Guest Anonymous]

Has a built in thermostat I believe, but be sure to check it out cause I don't know it for a fact....Marty....

[Guest Anonymous]

The e30 m20b25 mount DOES have a tstat valve built into it. Hence my dilemna. I will eventually be putting a Setrab or Mocal oil cooler in, but obviously will want to run a tstat valve on it (cold oil is bad news bears). Since the e30 mount already has one built in..that would be perfect. Problem is I could never find any fittings to fit into the e30 mount (in/out lines) itself. Tony @ VAC Motorsports sent me some, but they don't seem to fit right (and I didn't want to reef them in). I guess the other option is to take the stock lines, whack off a couple of ends, and get my own -AN crimp fittings put on.

But that will be a winter project. Maybe I'll dig up my fittings and the e30 mount and see whats up. I won't bother going with an old i/is cooler, its just not worth it to me. It would be old, looks crappy, you have to live with the dimensions...and I doubt it would cool as well as a Setrab or Mocal.

Matt

'72 02/m20

[Guest Anonymous]

what brand oil cooler are you running?

Matt

[Guest Anonymous]

Running an Earl's cooler. It's mounted on the frame rail where the battery used to be and gets air from the opening for the driver's side headlight. Rules require us to remove the headlights but we can use the opening to route air for whatever.

[Guest Anonymous]

first: i have oil drain plug replacement sender unit on the A4 and it has generated accurate oil temp readings for years( I used to drive the car when owned by a buddy 10 years ago). so that is an o.k. component.( not ideal in my book- but best i can come up with right now) Only thig better would be maybe a temp sender off the filter housing if you have one of the gucci ones that has extra ports for that stuff. I am told that sump temps are accurate though. wind cooling effect is probably minimal on the pan.I was told that 220 with dino oil was about as hot as i want to get. My A4 ran around 220 in city clog crap before i had the Turbo rad. recored and made into a 3 row. Now, I should get a whole lot of cooling from the Turbo rad. I did not put in an oil cooler (yet), I have a really small one from Korman made in the 80s that i bought on fleabay. it goes with a filter adapter that uses push on line fittings, that i dont feel comfortable using. i have heard that AN fittings will cost an extra arm to install. I will be running synthetic oil after break-in so the temp feedback is good to hear about that stuff and hot days at the track. Do you have analog water temp gauge too? That is my next to-do on both my 02s. I have oil temp and pressure on the A4, but i like maximal info, especially about engine temps. new engine w/ 3 row Turbo rad and the oil temp sender drain plug