Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Cooling System Issues In Tropical Climates


emmetHK

Recommended Posts

Thank you all for your input.  Its nice to get all of your suggestions.

 

Im looking to see if i can find a fan shroud for a 400mm tropical fan.  If not, anyone have an opinion on whether a 360mm + fan shroud is better than a 400mm fan without shroud?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all for your input.  Its nice to get all of your suggestions.

 

Im looking to see if i can find a fan shroud for a 400mm tropical fan.  If not, anyone have an opinion on whether a 360mm + fan shroud is better than a 400mm fan without shroud?

I've been wondering the same thing for nearly 40 years!

Regards,

Steve

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on the water/coolant ratio. So called "coolant" really isn't - it is antifreeze and anti-corrosion. The most efficient liquid heat transfer medium, because it has the highest heat capacity of all liquids, is water. The more water and the less antifreeze you have in your cooling system, the cooler the car will run. In Hongkong, the only thing you need is just enough anti-corrosion stuff for the coolant not to eat up the insides of your engine.

 

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on the shroud. 

No experience with this on the BMW, but I help in a pit crew for a stock car.  Even a shroud that isn't all that close to the edge of the fan blades (but does extend past the 'back' of the fan) makes a world of difference keeping those push rod V8's from over heating.  Mind you they're not spending much time at idle.  4K RPM up to 6K, back down to 4K, up to 6K, repeat as necessary every 8 seconds or so.  I think the hottest day we ran was +35 C, but no where the humidity that HK would have.

 

Was the shroud ever a factory option? or do people use a 3rd party or fab one themselves?

 

Thanks

 

Allan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as i have gathere there is a factory option fan shroud for the 360mm.  But not sure if there is one for the 400mm or not.  Im in discussion with my guys at Jaymic in the UK - will update you all once i have info from them.

I did splurge on a high density radiator ( 3 core) and I hope after essentially replacing the entire cooling system I will be ok.From what i have read here, seems there should be no real issues once it is all dialed in...

 

hopefully this will also keep the snarky remarks from my wife at bay...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 on the shroud. 

Was the shroud ever a factory option? or do people use a 3rd party or fab one themselves?

 

The shroud was standard equipment on U.S. square taillight cars. I've never run my '76 without it, so I really don't know how much it helps, versus the larger 400mm fan.

Steve

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We probably can help with an overheating 2002, you are def on your own for finding the cure for a overheating wife, good luck with that let us know how it goes....................

Happy Trails to u~ Dave Miller
76 Golf~Rhiannon~BM Mascot~*~97 328is~Silver Ghost~*~68 1600~Wisperin Beast~*~70-02~Bumble Beast~*~76 02~Beast~

Keep smilin all the way

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something no one hs mentioned here is that it's prudent to flush your block to remove corrosion which can inhibit heat transfer. There are of course coolant flushes for this.

 

Also if you are running hot, turning on the heat and fan blower will help to cool the car while you roast! Ke yi ma? ;-)

 

GL,

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I bought my 2002, the temperature gauge would rise on warm days. If I took it out at high speeds, it would go into the red. I took the radiator to a shop and they told me that it was 3/4's blocked. If you poured water in the top of the radiator, it would trickle out of the bottom.  I had a new core put in the radiator and my over heating problems disappeared. No matter what the conditions are, the gauge never goes above the 3:00 o'clock  position now.

 

Instead of putting a 'tropical' radiator in, take your old radiator to a radiator shop and have a new core put in it. When the cars were new, they did not overheat. If your stock cooling is in good condition such as not restricted and no leaks, you should not have an overheating problem. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something no one hs mentioned here is that it's prudent to flush your block to remove corrosion which can inhibit heat transfer. There are of course coolant flushes for this.

 

Is there a specific type of fluid used to flush the coolant passages in the engine block?  If anyone can give some input on this, this would be great.

 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm in Bangkok Thailand. Similar weather conditions to HK ( for your hot season anyhow ) My 02 is running a high compression modified motor.

I have a custom alloy rad which is similar in size to the "Turbo" rad. I also have the tropical fan and tropical thermostat. Temp guage sits exactly in the middle and the motor will idle all day long. I have a few 02 friends in BKK driving a selection of standard and modified cars without temp issues. Would say it's often hotter here and traffic difinitely worse than HK so if you are overheating I'd say your rad and hoses need flushing or replacing. Very posible that the system is furred up and needs a flush out. Also wise to use a "water wetter" or similar coolant additive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you all.

I've decided to get a new 3-core radiator, and still contemplating whether or not to go with a 400mm tropical fan or 360mm fan with shroud.  Im leaning towards the 360mm + shroud. 

Im hoping that once i have this redone, i will have my cooling issues resolved. 

 

Got new engine and transmission mounts - hoping this will prevent any further issues with my fan blade catching on my radiator. 

 

I should have it in by next week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

just wanted to follow up after the replacement of the entire cooling system...

 

Im not sure if i have really resolved the problem, as the other day i was sitting in traffic and the temperature needle crept up to about 3/4 (about 5mm below the red zone, or so).  Previously, this would have kept going up, but the needle did stay put this time.  Im am not entirely sure if it is as a result of the retrofit or if it is because the weather in Hong Kong has cooled down a bit...either way, it is still getting too hot for me to feel comfortable...

 

I also discovered that my car is suspected to have had some front end damage at one point in time, which has resulted in the radiator being mounted on a slight angle (bottom edge closer to engine).  As a result of this, the new tropical fan i purchased was not able to be installed and in fact had to cut down my original 360mm fan down to avoid having it brush up against my new rad.  I believe this is the reason why I am not getting the desired cooling even after replacing the entire system.

 

I have been looking around on here and trying to find a solution to this, and wanted to see if anyone has had any success installing one or two puller fans between the engine and the radiator?  I know the space is extremely tight in there and i understand some modifications to the water pump may be necessary to make clearance. 

 

Anyone have any suggestions on how I can go about improving this? 

 

Thanks,

Emmet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...