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2002 Turbo Engine Cooling Options


m6smitten

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Running the '02 around town yesterday and got stuck in some traffic. Not terrible but stop and go. Watched with great anxiety as the temp gauge climbed to about 75% to hot. And if I stop and get back in, it seems the engine cant shed the heat built up while stopped. I really dont want to warp or crack anything expensive so I researched cooling options. It seems Silicon Garage was hands down the top choice judging by others' feedback. Problem is, I cant get anyone on the phone -

The Silicon Garage Phone 510-507-2002 email is SiliconGarage02@gmail.com

Is this the right info?

 

Outside of Silicon Garage, are there any other suggestions? I am planning on a new water pump and therm.too. Anyone running an additional electric fan?

 

Thanks

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Curt Ingraham from Silicon passed away a last year, I believe. Mark who took over the business went and found other work and not doing rads anymore. See what I dug up with a search:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/135212-anyone-heard-from-mark/?hl=curt+ingraham#entry30301

 

Any good rad shop can fit a new core and improve your cooling capacity.

What T/stat do you have?

Also try checking actual temps, borrow an IR temp gun and aim it at the upper radiator to check temps to see if they correspond with gauge. The temp gauges in 02s are not know for accurate calibration.

 

HTH Beaner7102

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Just a thought...make sure someone did not swap your original turbo radiator (they are wider for more cooling capacity) for a standard 2002 radiator.  I'd have to go back to your first posts to see your pictures.

 

Use an Infrared thermometer "gun" to  compare the surface temperatures of the radiator, cooling neck (temp. switch location) versus the gauge.

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Which fan are you using? iI it runs hot only in stop and go traffic I suspect either you are running the small fan or your water pump may have excessive clearance and not pumping well at low speeds. I agree with jgerock get a IR gun and check the temp at the top and bottom of the radiator you might have a bad t-stat also but usually it would run hot all the time.

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Beaner- Thanks for the update on Silicon garage. Was planning on a T-stat and coolant temp sensor replace. With the IR, what temp range am I looking for? for example Low=X degrees, optimum =y ,high = z and over temp = holyF*%k.
Jgerock - I measured the Rad and it's 19 1/4 inches across. Not sure if this helps ID Turbo or non Turbo Rad.
Preyupy- The fan is red and looks about 13 to 14 inches in diameter. Can I ask you what you mean by "excessive clearance" when referring to the water pump?

Thanks to the brain trust and such a great resource!

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I had my stock rad re-cored with a 3 row piece in anticipation of Miami heat + eventual turbo. It cost about $200 from my local radiator shop and fits perfectly. I also took the opportunity to add the larger "tropic" fan blade. I can't get it to move above 1/2 no matter what I do. Definitely worth the piece of mind!

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Are u running an electric fan at present? If not, your collant temp sensor controls only the thermo time switch on a tii/turbo.

 

This is a turbo rad, identifiable by the add'l width to the left of the upper coolant hose fitting. Pay no attention to the rest of the mess in the pic ;-)

 

IMG_0007-1.jpg

 

Cheers,

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Are u running an electric fan at present? If not, your collant temp sensor controls only the thermo time switch on a tii/turbo.

 

This is a turbo rad, identifiable by the add'l width to the left of the upper coolant hose fitting. Pay no attention to the rest of the mess in the pic ;-)

 

IMG_0007-1.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Very jealous of that intake manifold. If only I could find one for the 318i mani.

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Ray- Thanks for the pic. My Rad also has the additional width left of the hose. Not running electric set up as I would like to keep it stock. 400mm fan,water pump,t-stat, coolant temp sensor on order and Rad will get re cored. I'd rather spend the dough up front and call it done.

 

Still not sure what excessive clearance on the water pump is referring to though.

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The impeller is designed to run close to the housing and I have seen some that are old and corroded where this gap is so big it does not flow enough water at low engine speeds. I have also seen a few of them that are not assembled at the factory correctly. If you are mchanging the pump as part of your service you should not have to worry about it but it would be interesting to compair them before you install the new pump.

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The impeller is designed to run close to the housing and I have seen some that are old and corroded where this gap is so big it does not flow enough water at low engine speeds. I have also seen a few of them that are not assembled at the factory correctly. If you are mchanging the pump as part of your service you should not have to worry about it but it would be interesting to compair them before you install the new pump.

Good call

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