tires and wheels Is This How To Replace Our Wheel Studs

[LarryS]

Just pulled the trigger on some 15" rims to replace my 13's...Figure I will have to replace the studs as well.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XX9te2iFH3E

 

Thanks. 

Edited August 29, 2013 by LarryS

[GreenSwede]

Ouch. I´d remove the hub instead of beating up the bearing like that. Or use some kind of press.

[williamggruff]

+1 to GreenSwede's comments.  Removing the hub is exceedingly simple.  Simply remove the split pin and loosen the retaining nut.  The nut should be finger tight, or barely more than finger tight.

 

You could use a press, a soft mallet, or a pair of pliers to remove the studs.  Hitting them with a heavy hammer seems like a great way to damage the hub, or get a bent or mushroomed stud stuck in the hub.

[nbcbird]

. . . but, but, but the studs on my front E21 hubs (for the BBK) were threaded.  Of course there's always the rear to practice on, but that nut is a little harder to get off.

Edited August 29, 2013 by nbcbird

[M3M3M3]

yikes.  take the hub off first! not only for the taking out part, but pulling the stud in with a lug nut is a good way to mung up the treads.

[200Duece]

I used a big C clamp as a press with a deep socket to space out the length of the studs.  I needed to muscle the clamp a little with another box wrench but the studs pressed in and out pretty easy.  This was with hub off the car of course.

Edited August 30, 2013 by 200Duece

[xferboy]

I just did this in the spring.

 

First off, on my tii, the stud is trapped by the rotor.  The setup is backwards to what most new stuff is.  The rotor is bolted to the BACK of the hub.  Sure you could hit it, but it would just run into the rotor.

 

once in the air and the tire off:

 

Pull the caliper (hang it)

dust cap off

cotter pin, nut, washer, pull it all off.

 

Turn it upside down (I ran the lug nuts on loose so they would square up and put it in a vice) and pull the 4 allan head bolts. (I replace them while I was at it, available from BMW motor cycle dealers as well)

 

Once the rotor is split from the hug (may require some taps), you can drive the studs out with a hammer.  You don't have to hit them that hard.  About the same as driving a spike (work your way up if you're not sure)  The last couple came out with a couple of smacks.

 

Re-install:

 

I used a strong arm, 4-6 1/2 flat washer and the original lug nut (the top washer will be ruined).  I don't like using a impact for this (I used to change semi tires, so I've replaced a bunch)

 

Using the strong arm, you can feel when it hits bottom.  Repeat 3 more times.  Have a beer, that was a bit of work.  Put the rotor back on on to the hub (~40 lbs/ft or so for those bolts).

 

Re-assemble the rest, replacing bearing/grease that you think need replacing.  Now go do the other side.

 

If you only read one thing in this post READ THIS PART!  Re torque your tires multiple times after short drives after replacing the studs!!

 

(then check less frequently as you get a feel how much they are moving).  I pit crew for circle track car.  After replacing studs (usually a broken axle after contact),  the studs will still pull in for a while even after they've been torqued properly.  We use 5/8" studs and 100 lbs/ft torque.  After some test laps they will need to re-torqued 3 or 4 time before they stay at 100.

 

Hope that helps

[LarryS]

Hope that helps

 

Big time help. Thanks for the detail!

 

Thanks for all the respones everybody.

 

Larry 

[m6smitten]

Sorry mate, don't mean to hijack.

 

Is there a part number (for the longer lug bolts) If I wanted to use e21 wheels on my 2002 Turbo? The wheel center is too thick for the existing lug bolts. I searched and found replacing wheel lugs but could not find a thread about what lug bolt to use. What have you guys used to run e21 basket weaves?

[M3M3M3]

2002's do not use lug bolts.  they use studs.

 

there was a thread about longer studs two weeks ago.  do a search on........."lug studs".

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/143753-30cs-wheel-studs-no-more/?hl=lug+studs#entry940022

[m6smitten]

thanks

[xferboy]

In retrospect, only do one stud at a time.

 

That way you can put a pry bar (thin metal, not crowbar sized) between the lugs (with nuts on) that are on either side of the one you are replacing to hold when you're running the new one in with the strong arm.

[M3M3M3]

In retrospect, only do one stud at a time.

 

That way you can put a pry bar (thin metal, not crowbar sized) between the lugs (with nuts on) that are on either side of the one you are replacing to hold when you're running the new one in with the strong arm.

if i understand what you are saying, that only applies to studs that screw in.  2002's don't use those in stock configuration.  they use studs that press in from the back of the hub.

Edited September 4, 2013 by mlytle

[M3M3M3]

Sorry mate, don't mean to hijack.

 

Is there a part number (for the longer lug bolts) If I wanted to use e21 wheels on my 2002 Turbo? The wheel center is too thick for the existing lug bolts. I searched and found replacing wheel lugs but could not find a thread about what lug bolt to use. What have you guys used to run e21 basket weaves?

those must be some odd wheels.  i have had e21 and e30 basketweaves on my 2002's and the stock lug studs were plenty long.

[MrForce]

Sorry mate, don't mean to hijack.

 

Is there a part number (for the longer lug bolts) If I wanted to use e21 wheels on my 2002 Turbo? The wheel center is too thick for the existing lug bolts. I searched and found replacing wheel lugs but could not find a thread about what lug bolt to use. What have you guys used to run e21 basket weaves?

are your existing lug nuts tapered or shank style. My car came with aftermarket wheels and shank style nuts. Just fitted OEM BBS BMW E30s and had to switch to tapered bulge style for alloy wheels.