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Ireland Pedal Bearing Kit - Installed


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I bought one of the first IE pedal box  bearing kits several months ago and finally got around to installing it.


here is the pile of parts



tools needed include:

17mm open end wrench

17mm closed end wrench (not the same as above)

19mm wrench

needle nose vice grips

small flat blade screwdriver (to poke the washers when installing pedals


start by :

remove gas pedal

pull carpet out.  twist 45 left to get it off pedals.  gas pedal arm first.

pop the little cover by the gas pedal so the pedal bolt can slide out

use vise grips to pull spring off brake pedal

remove brake pedal pin to linkage.  c-clip comes off by hand or with vice grips.

pull out your pedals. two bolts,  17/19 on clutch bolt, 17/17 on pedal bolt.  




while in there, might as well clean up/paint pedal box if needed..



here is the order the parts go in



with stock bushings for reference



assembled (spare pedal box used for demo purposes)



NOTE - the "stack width" of all the IE parts was just a touch too wide to fit in either of my pedal boxes.  i ended up using a center washer that was thinner than the stock one and shaved a few thou off the clutch pedal spacer to get the width correct.  here is pic of thinner center washer when i was mocking up in demo box.



and yes, you can do this by yourself...  it is a major PITA to line up all the little pieces while pushing the bolt through, but doable.  hard part is getting nut on end of bolt with the tight space.  the paper towel visible is to prevent an ooops moment if i bobbled the nut or washer and it was going to run down the frame rail.  i used needle nose vice grips to hold nut on end of bolt with left hand



while reaching in car with right hand to rotate bolt to start thread engagement on the nut.



soooo....was it worth it?  yes.  much less play in the pedals (this is compared to the new stock bushings i had in there NOT to old trashed bushings)


HOWEVER...the major slop in the 02 brake system remains at the booster pivot.  send your cards and letters to IE to ask them to make a similar bushing kit for this part of the system!!!!!


Edited by mlytle


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Thanks for the photos and detailed instructions.



'71 MGB - sold   '74 2002 - sold

'89 XR4Ti - sold  '94 Miata R Package - sold

'73 tii - restoration project - sold

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Marshall....what pedal setup are you running?

Edited by autobon7

1995 Toyota Landcruiser

1975 2002A

1989 Dodge Raider (sold)

1974 Toyota Landcruiser (very sadly sold)

1994 BMW 530i (sold)

1992 BMW 325i (sold)

1970 2002 auto sunroof (sold)

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I just put in a rebuild kit and was disappointed with the amount of slop with the new parts.  I am glad to know there is a better alternative out there.  Sorry I found out a little late though.  Thank you for the write up. 

i bought all new bmw parts for the entire linkage last year.  put it all together with visions of no slop.  massive disappointment.  there was more slop than with the old parts.  the tolerances on the new stuff are awful.  i ended up mixing and matching new and old bushing and pin parts to get the slop as low as possible.  the horrendous slop in the booster pivot still drives me nuts.


Marshall....what pedal setup are you running?

Clutch and brake are stock.  Gas pedal is my design (with credit to Lee Vong for some of the parts)  ROCAN is now selling this design, but it is simple to build yourself.  i posted instructions on how to do it a long time ago as an FAQ here:




Marshall--very minor point.   If I am looking at your reassembly correctly, I would reverse the upper pivot bolt so you could extract it easily (without impinging on the inner fender wall).  

you are looking at it correctly...but the pic is of my spare parts which are not assembled correctly. (the pivot is also upside down!) i just threw them together so the individual bits would not get lost in my parts bins.  good eye though!

Edited by mlytle


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Good point about the slop in the brake booster... How does everything feel in terms of effort? I would imagine the clutch action would feel a lot lighter.

1974 Grey European Market BMW 2002 

1976 Yellow BMW 2002 "GOLDENROD" SOLD

1972 Yellow Austin Mini 1000

A bunch of Bikes...

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Garry--did you try using a large C-clamp to install the bushing(s)?  It would also help to grease the bushing. 


Another trick--since the Ireland bushing/spacer is aluminum, put it in the freezer for an hour or so, and the pedal (remove the rubber pedal cover) in the oven at about 200 degrees.  The steel pedal will expand and the aluminum bushing will shrink and will pop right in.  That's an old trick for install a bearing on an axle shaft.  Shaft in the freezer, bearing in the oven.



'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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the aluminum spacer should move freely inside the pedal (same concept as the spacer in the rear wheel bearing.)  grease it up.  i used a brake cyl hone inside the pedal to remove the paint to make sure it was free.


the bearings on either end should be snug.  i sanded the paint off the inside of the pedal and the bearings slid in with no pressure.

Edited by mlytle


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