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How Bad Is This? 1972 Tii


rnoonan
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A local used car guy got his hands on what appears to be a largely original but pretty beat 1972 tii.  Anyone feel like helping me gauge to what degree this is recoverable?

 

First off, the VIN on the steering column clearing indicates tii, but there's no clock on the dashboard and the rear badging seems off (model badge is high and there's no BMW badge).  Was this ever normal or does this suggest it was a non-tii that someone is playing games with?  I haven't gotten under the hood yet (he wasn't on the lot tonight).

 

The floors look rough around the sections that look like a pipe cap (proper name?).  Seems reparable, but hard for me to gauge how much work.  Couldn't inspect strut towers and spare well tonight.  Running boards seem solid, but a decent bit of rust around the passenger front wheel well.

 

The interior is completely beat (cracked dash, missing rear bench, carpet is junk, console is nearly junk), but the front BMW original seats are not so bad and would probably be great with a cleaning and restuffing.

 

Anyone willing to chat about this vehicle as I continue to investigate the drive train and share their $.02 about what it's worth/going to take?  I've always wanted a classic BMW, realize these are now highly collectible, have basic mechanical skills and great local labor, but wondering if there's any way to make financial sense of this particular car.

 

TIA

 

-Rich

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That's the one in Eliot, Maine. VIN 2760849

 

A few Nor'East 02ers have posted it on FB. Hope this link works has engine pics in the album.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10201096004554885&set=oa.634274649918407&type=1&theater 

 

No dash clock or back seat. 320i Recaros 

 

In my humble opinion it looks beat for the $6K asking price, plan on putting 6K in it bodywise to start.

Edited by adawil2002
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you'll be stripping out the interior for starters to repair the floor.  with a sunroof, expect to replace rockers or portions, thereof, depending on your expectations for integrity.  look closely at the condition of the driver's side framerail too.  planning on doing a lot of prep work yourself? or shop it out?  either way, you've probably got at least 8 months to several years of effort to get it into nice shape.  it can be done in segments, too and perhaps that might be more your style.

 

you have to let us know what you are willing to put up with and how much time, and/or disposable income you have...

also, are you getting emotionally attached to it?  that can be a killer.  ask me how i know...

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Wow. I new this would be a small community but didn't imagine the 2nd post would ID the car :)

I'm going to see if I can get a closer look under the hood and see if/how it runs. From poking around tonight I don't think this car is worth $6k either. However, if I can get any structural rot addressed for reasonable money and the engine runs, there might be a price I'm willing to pay.

I can't get very emotional about a car needing this much work. But it's still worth pursuing to a point. I will search the site now for references, but if anyone cares to throw me a URL for parts suppliers I'd appreciate it.

Thanks for the guidance so far. Appreciate those engine pics.

Edited by rnoonan
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Go find the most expensive tii for sale out there and buy it. You will save money and be driving tomorrow. Everyone says this and I'm sure, at least from my own experience that it is correct. I'm not put off by mechanical needs, but bodywork, good bodywork, is pricey. Does the engine vin match the body? The engine vin is at the back of the block above the starter on a flat land. Take a flashlight. 

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Folks, quick update for you.  The sales guy stated it failed inspection due to rot around the spring mounts.  Without putting it on a lift, I was unable to verify.  He stated he thought it was all 4.  While I could not find the block VIN, the engine certainly appears original.  Definitely the correct injector setup with no signs of modification.  Looked good inside the radiator and valve cover.  However, he was unable to get it started.  It turned over, but wouldn't catch.  He said it's been test driven recently, but I wasn't able to confirm smoke.

 

I did discover yet another area where the body is rusted through: spare tire well.  Pin holes for now, but it's pretty gone on the front side of the well.

 

My un-expert opinion is that this car in the hands of someone experienced is prime for restoration.  But there's some serious welding work to be done.  It's too much for me.  I hope someone with the skills comes and gets her.  

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That's tough to walk away - it would be a nice car - I like the color.  You were smart and courageous to walk away, though.

 

The collective wisdom of the FAQ seems to be that when looking to buy one of these things, get the best body you can and compromise on mechanicals if budget stipulates you have to compromise on something.  

 

Body work and paint are expensive and time-consuming (ie you're car is off the road for a long time).  And people sometimes have a difficult time finding reputable shops that do quality work (depending on geography).  

 

In contrast, 02s are relatively simple to work on mechanically, and you can get most of the parts.  Some of the parts are getting really expensive, but at least you can get them.  

 

Friends of mine here in Ohio have been known to buy cars from SoCal and ship them here.  Shipping a car with a clean body is cheaper and faster than trying to fix a rusty car.  

 

Last piece of advice I've heard over and over here is the worst plan of all is to buy a rusty car, and put a lot of time and effort into the mechanicals (eg putting in a great suspension, rebuilding the motor or putting the go-fast goodies on it, etc).  

 

You might have known all that, by the way.  Just summarizing the themes I've seen here, over and over again.

 

Scott

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The radiater core support in the engine bay photo (https://www.facebook...type=1&theater� ) shows a pass-through hole for the stock carburetor cold air intake used on non-tii cars.  I could be wrong, but I thought the core supports for the 2002 tii cars did not have this hole.  If I am correct, then this car is either not an original tii or the core support was replaced with a non-tii support.  If the latter, the only logical reason for replacing a core support would be the result of extensive front-end damage.

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The radiater core support in the engine bay photo (https://www.facebook...type=1&theater� ) shows a pass-through hole for the stock carburetor cold air intake used on non-tii cars.  I could be wrong, but I thought the core supports for the 2002 tii cars did not have this hole.  If I am correct, then this car is either not an original tii or the core support was replaced with a non-tii support.  If the latter, the only logical reason for replacing a core support would be the result of extensive front-end damage.

It's also rather interesting that the cowl was not notched for easier timing access.

 

Hmm..

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