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Engine Block Paint


markmac

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Got a call from my engine builder yesterday, lots of progress apparently, block has been sent out/returned - decked, honed....now just needs to be painted.  Want to paint it as close to the factory black color as possible.  I don't know that I have really ever seen a "fresh" m10 out of the crate, but from pictures it appears to be a low gloss (semi) black.  So what paint are folks using out there on their engine block's?

 

Pretty cool piston's are just about to be ordered along with unfortunately conrods.  I scored a nice set of Carillo's about a year ago that were 5.315" Center/Center because I figured the AlpinA rods that cam out of the motor were likely stock......wrong.  Actually AlpinA was using a 5.827 Center/Center rod (or 148mm) with a standard 80mm crankshaft.  This is what happens when you take 9 years to rebuild your engine (you forget sh*t).

 

www.alpinabmw2002.com

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Mark,

 

We like to use the POR 15 engine enamel for most builds.  It has a higher gloss than a heavy duty VHT engine paint if someone is after a more original presentation.  The POR product provides a protective barrier and long life like no other.  Prep is straightforward with the marine clean and clean prep products they sell.

 

Great to hear about the progress of your project.

 

R

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Rob-

Never used the POR paint before, but have heard it is pretty much bullet proof.  I want to stay as close to OE as possible (whatever that is/was).  Don't want to do a bunch of brain damage over it so I will have a look at what is available from VHT, Krylon, Rustoleum etc., and pick whatever looks best.  Since it is a motor that isn't being run but every so often it isn't going to take a real beating like a street motor would (Although probably higher heat cycles).  Hope to get some pics of what has been done in the next couple days.  I heard yesterday that they found some "anomolies" in the bearing surface on the crank that they are hoping will simply polish out - otherwise it is a re-grind on the crank and the nitride = $$$.  Hoping I can catch a break, not many of those in this deal (break's that is).  I am still reeling a bit from have to dish out more $$$ for the 148mm Carillo's.  Individually not staggering amounts of money, add them together and it makes you cringe a bit.

 

www.alpinabmw2002.com

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I have seen that done before (grey that is).  Going to stay with "Black".  Seems like most of the stuff you can get out of the can (VHT or Duplicolor) get pretty good reviews.  Like any paint job, it is all in the prep.  My block was just re-surfaced and honed.  Funny, you tell your engine guy to just get it done.....next thing you know.....he is.....and you are writing checks.....Block was completely de-greased.  Pretty much stripped, or stripped as much as I need with wire wheel, acetone to clean, wire wheel, acetone.  For the most part is now bare metal and what is left is pretty thin.  I will probably give it the once over one more time, then clean really good.  Want to get this thing out of my garage and back to the negative pressure (clean) engine build room (I was "warned" about touching, handling, damaging etc., the cylinders or the deck.....sheeesh).

 

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www.alpinabmw2002.com

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Just finished this up this morning.  Probably the 8 hours my guy suggested to prep, mask and paint the block would have been a good deal.  I spent a little more time with the wire wheel, then a whole lot of time with Acetone wiping the block down until the final pass was coming up completely clean.  Soda blasting would have been best, although since some machine work had been done I wasn't real wild about someone going at it with any sort of media (soda included).  This block had so little exposure to the elements rust was not any sort of issue.  After a good 4 hours or so of masking off everything that needed masking here are the results - pretty happy.  Not a whole lot of good pics of OE blocks, probably a little more gloss in this paint than OE, which very nearly looks flat (but not quite).  Last pic is my refurb'd Tii lower timing cover with metric socket cap bolts- (class 12.9), cast aluminum upper timing cover w/mechanical tacho drive (off of pump).  Water pump drive is Gilmer belt driven off of the crank........

 

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