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Heater Box - Do I Need New One Or Is It Good Enough


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If I replace the motor, can I still use this heater box with the broken fan cover?  I know it's not ideal but what's the downside? Leaves and junk in the fan?


Couldn't I just cover with a plastic mesh?


Anyone have one they want to sell?






Edited by paulram
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You might be able to glue in little plastic scraps to replace the pieces that broke off with the JB weld. Make sure the fan blades clears whatever patch work you do.

Mike Katsoris CCA#13294                                                

74 InkaGangster 4281862

2016 Porsche Boxster Spyder,    2004 BMW R1150RT,  
76 Estorilblau 2740318                      

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I'm with IBJ on this one. It is out. There is a good, excellent really, faq on the rebuild and you will be happier having done it. It isn't a real expensive operation...compared to everything else. Even if you don't replace the parts you should replace the gaskets in the box. Once it is back in you won't want to pull it again.

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I have every intention to rebuild itand I have all the informationon how to do it.I was just looking for a new box it wasn't cracked.I have a new motor on the way and I'm going to rebuild itI was just hoping someone had an extra casethey wanted to sell

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Just be aware that the part of the case with the wiring connections is different from the roundies to the squares. I was rebuilding my box with a combination of parts and found the fan ran backwards when all was said and done. After some testing and retesting and posts on this board, we did confirm that fact. So be cautious. So as I said earlier, bench test your rebuild carefully. Test for wind direction and test that the fan clears the flaps. So with the fan running, move all your controls in every possible position before install.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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I rebuilt my heater box beautifully and installed it only to find the blades DID NOT CLEAR the flap when it open and i heard "crack" and bent every fan fan blade and really messed everything up. So definitely test the clearance of the blades to the flaps before re-installing.


Also test direction of the motor. Some motors have opposite polarity and you end up sucking air instead of pushing air. Your positive wire to the box is the Green/Brown wire and the purple/yellow/black are negative wires running through a resistor to control fan speed.


I have rebuild mine 3 times in 1 month for lots of silly mistakes so i will lay out the mistakes i have made here so other people don't make the same mistakes.


1) Some people suggest using mouse pad material for the flaps. That is fine but use really strong glue. I used contact adhesive and the mouse pad material fell off the flaps after a few weeks jamming up the heater box.


2) Check motor direction and fan blade to flap clearance before installing. Use a 12v jump box if available.


3) The top flap you might have to taper the leading edge or else the foam tends to catch on the lip as it closes. Is


3) Self adhesive 3/16" closed cell foam sheets is probably the best stuff for the rebuild HOWEVER it is not going to be available locally and you will have to order it online and wait. I didn't want to wait so i found at PepBoys self adhesive 3/16" closed cell foam tape for camper installs. ($7.99 for 20ft). Its about 1 1/4 inches wide and it worked out great. I put 2 strips side by side on the various flaps and it worked very well. Also good for sealing the top and sides of the box.

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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