Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

 

So yesterday I went to wind my window up after football,

and I heard a ' slip ' inside the door and now I can't wind my

drivers side window up (fantastic).

 

I have managed to get all the door trip off no problem, but

i'm not sure what the next step is.

 

The handle just spins freely clockwise, then counter-clockwise

it locks and won't go anywhere.

 

Any help would be appreciated and hopefully noone steals

my car from my driveway  ;)

 

I have attatched two images; one of the door in it's current state,

the other what I found in the bottom of the door floating around??

 

J

 

post-42049-0-18947200-1375060743_thumb.j

post-42049-0-65380200-1375060758_thumb.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your window lift mechanism failed, probably the pin that goes in the middle of the spring in your lower picture.  If that spring isn't broken (and from the picture it might be) and you want to try repairing the lift, drop me an e-mail; I did a column on repairing the window lift mechanism so that pot metal piece that failed won't fail again. 

 

BTW, that curved piece of metal on the far right of your second picture is part of the door check strap.  If your door won't stay open, that's why--and you might as well replace it while you have the upholstery off the door. And that chunk on the left is part of the insulation stuck on the inside of the door so that it has a nice bank vault sound when you close it. 

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi there , if you are the obsessed type there are many lil repairs that you can do to make that door the best that it can be .... Grommets on the lock

Replacing the door card with upgeaded wood cards , new plastic to ensure that water will not get in, new rubber at the base of the window ,

All these lil items are available and are reasonably priced on the net . If you love this car and live your door then you can do it once ... And never open the door up again . At least for a while. Then you will be a pro for the next door .

Do the research get the knowledge . It's worth it

And don't slam the door when your done !

Xx Dez

DEZ                                  file://localhost/Users/desi/Desktop/bmw-snow-singniture.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike, i'll message you.

 

Is there a way to get the window up as a short term fix

so I can drive/park it?

 

If you take out the lifting system (3 bolts around the handle) you should be able to lift the glass by hand. Then if you wedge something in the door, like board cut to suitable length or whatever, you should be able to make it stay up.

 

  Tommy

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't remember how, but I did this repair at some point. Since I was able to figure it out on my own, it cannot have been too difficult :-)

 

However, I had a Saturn once (those plastic cars). Same failure mode. I swear that the assembly of those darned things starts by hanging four window lift mechanisms from the ceiling and then build the rest of the car around them. I ended up replacing the door.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

I haven't had mine apart in 32 years, but as I recall the lifter assembly has a couple of pot metal rivets around which the lifter arms rotate (that make any sense ??).  Items 13 & 14 in the above diagram seem to point at the rivets.  I removed the whole window crank assembly and replaced those pot metal rivets with pieces of a steel bolt.  Haven't had any problem since.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Carl.  My window lifter is really good shape.  Maybe itls been replaced already.  What I'm wondering is how those two pieces attach together (3) and (5).  There was nothing connecting the two.  I'm going to do what any logical person would do and pull the other door panel and take a look.

 

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know whether this will help, but I just replaced part #3 on my driver door because mine rusted through.  I saw it coming.  It got to where I had to pull up with one hand and crank with the other, then one day I heard a clunk, as the wheel assembly fell to the bottom of the door.  Luckily I had found a used part from a FAQ member and the swap was relatively straight forward.  

 

The little 'wheel' on the lifter arm passes through the hole at the end of the slot on the tab at the bottom of the channel that holds the glass.  The drawing above is a little hard to read.  I believe there is a line showing that the wheel at the bottom of the arm goes over to the tab.  

 

It is hard to know what you are missing.  Did it work and then suddenly stop?  If your door is opened up it would be helpful if you could snap some photos to share.  

 

I have spent a lot of time in my doors and have more work to do to them... including replacing the rivets mentioned above.

 

Edit:  there are little rubber grommets at the joints where the little rods that open and lock the door connect.  These are still available, but a little spendy, considering how small they are.  I believe people have found alternatives.  There are three required for each door.  I replaced mine and the doors no longer rattle.  Funny what a huge difference that makes.  One of the originals in my car could have been spun in its hole and worked again... for a while.  You might peek and see if yours are still there and what condition they are in.

Edited by '76Mintgrun'02

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks 76Mint.  I figured it out.  My regulator arm was missing the wahers, spring and clip.  I didn't realize they went through the slot.  My guide rail is also rusted through.   Hopefully someone has one that i can get.  While i was at it took the other door apart to see what it looked like.  The pass window doesn;t go up all the way on that window.  In another post someone said that the regulator was going bad and that the replaced it with a steal bolt.  I think Mike referenced the repair above.  Has anyone done it and what was the outcome?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...