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I searched and did not find the answer to my first question now that my tii is in the garage after sitting 20 yrs. in a warehouse.  I want to see if the engine is "functional" so I thought a compression test might tell me the most basic stuff.  I pulled the valve cover off and everything looks fine.  Note: pushing on the fan blade it's stiff but turns over.

 

My plan is to drain and then add 4qts of new 20-50 pouring some on the rockers.  Is there a way to add fresh oil to the KF pump to avoid damaging it?  Then I thought with no plugs and no power to the fuel/ignition system hook up a battery and turn the key to see if the starter works.  If it does spin the engine and listen for problems.  If all goes well get compression readings from all 4 cylinders and then have a plan.  Ideally I would like to focus on the brakes, suspension etc. and get it safely running before I do an engine rebuild.

 

Or do I have to assume everthing needs rebuilding at this point and start taking the entire car apart?  My goal is a reliable, nice weather driver.  A few pics are attached.  I am the 2nd owner and the car is almost 100% original (yes the paint) so if anyone needs pics/info just let me know.

 

 

 

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What a barn find, even came with a bale of hay.  Def oil the jugs before you spin her, and a tip from an original paint golfie I rescued after 23 years of outdoor storage, the first wash on the paint will either bring her back or scratch her enamel, go very slowly and I soaked my paint with diesel and wd40 before even attempting to scrub the grime from the surface, you will be amazed at how well the factory paint responds to some extra tlc, great find. It looks like a motor swap has been done, any history on the mechanicals?

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dbmw2002,  It's not quite a barn find - I bought it from the first owner back in 1983.  Drove it for 10 years and then stored it until now.  It was running fine when I parked it in the warehouse 20 years ago but unfortunately I did nothing to properly mothball the car.  Just yanked the battery out and walked away.  Though I did buy a new gas tank so that's been ready to go for the past two decades!  I have all docs from day one.  The 1st owner was an original BMW nut.  The only mechanicals I recall changing were the springs - they must have come from CTC or an advertiser in the Roundel magazine and I should have the invoice.

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Jim,  Thanks for the warning.  I forget that the KF will be pumping away even with the fuses pulled - the thing is mechanical!  Are there any issues by running it without fuel pressure from the electric fuel pump?  Did I see correctly that injectors are $800 each?  Any chance after sitting for 20yrs mine are still good?  Any basic Dos or Don'ts with the plastic lines running from the KF to the injectors?  I do have the factory manual (aka big Blue binder) so I'll do some reading. 

 

I was going to tackle this project 20 yrs. ago but happened to see a brand new 1994 Miata R package at the dealer... :-)

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in addition to the above I'd recommend Marvel Mystery oil through the plug holes and plenty of it and hand crank it  s l o w l y

 

Drain the fuel tank and purge the lines with the key on.pump on  and the hose from the filter (get a a couple of meters of new fuel hose) refill with fresh hi test  and cycle the new fuel into a container, then replace the filter and do it again until what you get out is clear and fresh. Check the whole fuel line from tank to filter it's likely no good

 

If the plugs dont want to come loose let them soak over night in some penetrating oil before trying to muscle them out.

 

Inspect the throttle body and check for acorns, nests etc. Stick a vacuum cleaner in there and see if anything comes out. Use some carb/maf cleaner into the throttle body to remove varnish and oil the butterfly and linkage. 

 

Belts, hoses, etc etc. 

 

It will probably start right up but if it does not run properly I'd yank the injectors and put them in a marvel mystery oil or other penetrating bath because by now the last fuel turned to varnish and you can brush them on the outside with a bronze bristle brush or take them to an injector service to pop them

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Love the bale of hay in pic #1, any good barn has a few of those around, no dis implied. The mention of a motor swap was the condition of the sealing edge that resides above the firewall, looks like a motor swap was performed by the condition shown in pic. What makes this car esp sesxy is the original paint and straight body, this cant be faked or restored, you have a jewel and wish you well with project

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My wife's '76 Pastellblau sat out, undriven, in the hot Southern Arizona sun for nearly 15 years before we rescued it.  You can see it now in the attached pic.  It's been her daily driver for the past 15 years and runs great.

 

Don't forget to bleed the brakes.

 

Bob Napier

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Edited by Napes
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Thanks everyone!  I bought Mystery Oil today and will start the cylinder "soaking" process tonight. ($5/qt. at my local NAPA store and too bad they discontinued the old metal can).  I am guessing 1/2 cup in each will do the trick and then I'll slowly turn the fan/engine every few beers over the weekend.  I'll give you an update.

 

I thought the car was critter free but then saw what is certainly non-BMW stuffing packed under the plastic grid on the outside of the fan/heater box.  Why do they always go for the heater?? :-)  

 

dbmw2002 - the paint does look pretty darn good and you're right about the hay bale being a "must have".  Maybe you're right about an engine swap but not during my 30 yrs. of ownership.  I guess I better check to see if the #s match.

 

More pics later and thanks again.

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On 7/26/2013 at 9:27 PM, roadhog0 said:

Not an engine swap. Someone wanted to time the car! They ground off some of the lip there so they could see the blasted timing mark! :lol:

 

There's more to the elliptical cutout than that. All (virtually all?) tii's with aluminum intake runners were notched at the factory. Some say to facilitate timing; others say to install the motor without removing the #4 intake runner. In addition, over the years, more than a few 2002s -- tii's and non-tii's -- we're notched "post-factory" to facilitate timing.

 

Here's an earlier thread on the topic:

 

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/48393-elliptical-cutout-on-top-of-firewall/?hl=tii+firewall+cutout#entry624756

 

But, separate and apart from the elliptical cutout, the top lip of the firewall has any number of small nicks or dents that are sometimes indicative of engine removal and/or installation. No biggie on a 40-year-old car! In fact, expected.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

Edited by Conserv
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There's more to the elliptical cutout than that. All (virtually all?) tii's with alloy intake runners were notched at the factory. Some say to facilitate timing; others say to install the motor without removing the #4 alloy intake runner. In addition, over the years, more than a few 2002s -- tii's and non-tii's -- we're notched "post-factory" to facilitate timing.

Here's an earlier thread on the topic:

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/48393-elliptical-cutout-on-top-of-firewall/?hl=tii+firewall+cutout#entry624756

But, separate and apart from the elliptical cutout, the top lip of the firewall has any number of small nicks or dents that are sometimes indicative of engine removal and/or installation. No biggie on a 40-year-old car! In fact, expected.

Regards,

Steve

Hmm, not sure I 100% buy it cause my 76 with a motor that I know has never come out is dinged up on top too. Part of the just working on it thing. Also if I remember correctly engines were installed from the bottom at the factory (some old picture has this I believe). But being almost 40 years after the fact I think we shall never truly know. It's all up to speculation now.

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