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Say hello to our new (old) 1972 BMW 1802!
We are Restoration Design and, quite simply, we make sheet metal auto parts. We've made a name for ourselves in the Porsche world with our exceptionally accurate fitments and high quality and now we're going to do it again with BMW.
Here is where the parts start out!
Here is where we stamp out some of the parts!
Here is where we store the parts!
Here is the humble aisle where my (few) BMW parts reside!
And eventually our parts can find themselves restoring some pretty great cars! For example, here's one of our cars here.
The egg plant 1952 Porsche 356 Pre-A! A very rare car indeed!
We got it into the shop and began to pull it apart. Interior, engine, electrical, etc...it all has to come out!!
So as you can see, it's in pretty good shape. However, we all know that a car that is pushing 40 years old is rust, rust and RUST!!
Either way, we managed to pull the engine out. I wish I had the photo, but we used a forklift! xD
Classic roundie!
Like every E30 I've ever worked on, this subframe was SERIOUSLY stuck.
Deciding what to do with this engine...so many options!
And I'll leave you with this parting shot, right before it was sent off to be sandblasted. Poor girl, looking rather dead on her side!



Edited by malcolm@restoration-design
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  • 4 weeks later...

Update: Metal work has begun!


So the car came back from sandblasting and priming looking like swiss cheese - full of holes! Someone attempted some restoration at some point; however, it's mostly just patch work and bondo.


First up is the trunk floor and rear valance. Both and rotted through and need to be replaced.








Let's go to work!


9464853865_0e6627ee67_z.jpg 9467638632_f62276df44_z.jpg


We got all the floor cut out, and the rear valance (center and sides) all preped and ready to install our new repair panels.






That's all for now folks, stay tuned for some rear wheelwells up next!

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AUGUST 14TH, 2013:  still workin' on the rear!


The first thing we noticed when we pulled the trunk floor out was the rusty interior of the subframe channel and it's mounting tabs.




Time to make a new one! Knowing how important it is to have the differential mounted properly - since there isn't really any rear adjustability for alignment - we took TONS of measurements to create this new piece.




Then we made 10 more! Those will be available on our site in a short time, when we've had a chance to properly check our measurements in the car. (and finish the pieces!! :D)




Next up, we have to prep the trunk floor for welding. We grind away the paint around the edges to ensure ease of installation later.




From the car, we salvaged the lock post, tow loops and the bumper brackets. We will probably manufacture these down the line, but for now the OEM metal is fine.




Once all the components were prepped for installation, we (obviously) installed them! Here we are testing fit and checking to make sure nothing needs to be trimmed or modified before we remove the rear wheel wells.












This is the state of the wheel wells. Not very safe, since they have been patched in several places already, not to mention the large unpatched holes that the sandblasting revealed.






Using our trusty DeWalt and a spot weld remover, we carefully drilled out all the welds holding the wheel well into the car. A couple hours later, we were able to pull the pieces out of the shell.






We're now clear to start reinstalling the rear end! We got our inner wheel wells clamped into place to check fitment and determine if any adjustment would be needed.








Next update will be, hopefully, some welding!

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  • 2 weeks later...

AUGUST 28TH, 2013 - rear wheel housings are complete.


Picking up from where we left off last time, we've finished welding in the rear wheel housings and the rear cross-member that we built.






Working from the front to the back, constantly measuring and double checking - we slowly Rosette welded the wheel housing to the outer fender. When you're doing these repairs, it's important to ensure that nothing moves around, since the rear suspension geometry can become out of alignment very easily.


We used this diagram to maintain accuracy: 




Once the new panels were welded in, we turned our attention to the rear crossmember. It often rusts out on its interior, so we made sure to liberally spray weld-though primer along the channel before welding it onto the car. (AGAIN, MEASURE TWICE WELD ONCE!!)








Quite a clean install if you ask me! Up next is the rear trunk floor.


Also, stay tuned for next week when we'll post the video how to for this update.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey all, it's that UPDATE time again!


First up, we have a video we made showing a "How To" for our replacement of the diff support and rear wheel housings.




Second, we got more work done on the 2002! Here we go...


So we started by fitting the trunk floor and, using sheet metal screws and butt weld clamps, we secured it for welding.




We also secured the new different cross member into the trunk floor.






We welded the tail panel first. I am continuously impressed with how these parts fit, definitely easier than fabbing it yourself.




Welding welding welding welding!




Grinding grinding grinding grinding!


Adam, our welder, did a good job with the Rosette welds here. Nice and smooth, which will keep the body fill to a minimum.




Next, the sides of the rear valence. These have to be carefully butt welded to the bottom of the rear quarter, as well as welded to the side of the trunk floor.


So first secure with sheet metal screws and butt weld clamps.










Woo! All done! We may clean up that line along the center of the valence; however, that will be under the rear bumper so we'll see. 






Stay tuned for this mess! (frame rails, floors, inner fenders and nose oh no)



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  • 5 months later...

Hello again, BMW2002FAQ! It's been too long!


I'm back to give you all an update on this fun 1802 build. Without further ado, let's jump right in!


Today we're going to be replacing the frame rails and front floors. As you can see, they've been patched before, but have rusted around the old patches because someone only tacked the patches in, and didn't run a bead of weld around the outside to seal them in.




Now, before we started cutting out the frame rails and floors, we needed to move the bolt point on our rotisserie while still keeping support in the area. (we don't want anything twisting)




Once everything was properly braced, it was possible to remove the old frame rails and then cut out the floors. I don't have any photos of fitting the new frame rail. :(




We also had to remove some of the inner rocker, you can see on the left side. We rolled the proper indentation into the panel and welded it in.




Here we are fitting the new floor panel in. The butt weld clamps are used again here to stop the metal from warping when it's tacked into place and to ensure a perfectly smooth transition.




Here's another angle, with more butt weld clamps (and some C clamps) in place, just to be safe.




Next we had to make a small patch panel for the pedal area, which was rusted beyond what the floor panel replaced. You can see the remainder of the old patch that still needs to be cut out. Very poor work was done before. :(






We clamped this into place and then welded everything together!






PASSENGER SIDE!! All the same techniques applied on this side. We replaced the frame rail by drilling out the spot welds all around the outside, then welded a new one into the same position. Then we trimmed the floor to fit the new repair panel and clamped it in!




On this side, we also had to make a new corner piece for the floor well area. We had to roll a more complex curve into this side, but it turned out quite well. You can barely see what was wrong!




Well, there you have it!! Floors and frame rails completed in the 1802. Not the most difficult repair, but you have to go slow and make sure the rest of the car is secured. You don't want to fit out later that something moved and your suspension is out of alignment!




Up next is the nose and front strut towers! Stay tuned!



Edited by malcolm@restoration-design
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  • 4 weeks later...

Wow - now that is a ton of work condensed into that update.

Thanks for reading through! I love getting feedback that at least a few people are seeing this. :)



Here's the video DIY we've put together for replacing the frame rails. They were glossed over in my last update, so this video should cover more of the repair.


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