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Arp Main Cap Studs- Need 2 Xlong


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Hey everyone - I am ready to set my crank in finaly-when I realized the ARP studs I have dont have enough length for the oil pickup bracket mount nuts.Newer M10 motors dont have this.Niether does the S14 i guess.So I called ARP told them my perdickee ment and they hooked me up. They only need to be about 10 mm's longer and part number AM 4.300-1B is it. Goes in a Ford 4.6 center main cap.10mm x 1.50 both ends and  about 110 mm

long. Thought Ide share.The set I got from VAC was ARP part # 201-5001 fairly new and fits the S-14 as well. They are all 95mm's long though.The other thing is ARP has none on the shelf in singles -Tech said to call some suppliers- Summitt had them at 9.95 a piece and got a extra pack of 12pt nuts and washers too.Hope fully it wont be long and we will be back in the saddle.

Catman

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If you order them from Ireland Engineering, the longer studs for the oil-pickup are already included.  We literally go in and swap out two studs for the correct longer studs.

 

Also as an FYI to help someone from going through the same difficulty.

 

Catman - If you still need just a couple of the longer ones, just let me know.

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Thanks Andrew - We have spoken on the phone several times - Im in Georgia.I didnt think to ask when I bought the studs.In fact I dont think I had torn that engine down yet. This is my first M10 so I have learned a bunch.Its not my first rebuild- mostly hotrod / muscle cars.I just didnt make it to you guys when I picked these out.I have bought a fair amount sence then though . I gave you guys a shout out today with pics of your rockers and locks. Hope you like them - I did all of the tear down and assembley of that head .Scotts Machine in Fayettville Ga did the machine work.Thanks - Catman

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I ordered the longer studs directly from ARP, can post part number this evening. Surprised they said not on the shelf. Glad to hear IE supplies the long studs, though not required if doing a dry sump engine (so should specify that when ordering).

 

UPDATED:

 

Part No. =  ARP AM4.125-1LB studs
Length = 4.125 inch
BLOCK thread = M10x1.50
NUT thread = M10x1.25

$6.68 @ centralhp.com
$4.69 @ jbspowercentre.com

 

--Fred '69 & '74tii

Edited by FB73tii

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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...never had any trouble with the main bolts, myself.  Now, if we could get an ARP rod BOLT, THAT would be worth the coin...

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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IE rods do come with ARP bolts. I bought a stretch guage for torquing the rod bolts but could not get enough stretch at torques I felt were reasonable, so went with the default ARP torque recommendation.

 

Using ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant (which I did), the ARP torque recommendations are:

    Head Studs: 90 lb-ft

    Main Cap Studs: 60 ft-lb

    Rod Bolts: 70 ft-lb

 

As I recall IE recommended less torque on the head studs. At first I did mine to 90 ft-lb (as another FAQ'r posted recently in a different post), but at this torque the hardened washers actually begin to cut into the head slightly. I ended up using 75 lb-ft, which I think is fine for my N/A application (316 cam) with stock head gasket. On my other engine (336 cam) the builder used 90 lb-ft and an MLS head gasket.

 

Fred '69 & ,74tii

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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yeah, but as far as I went a few years back, you can't get an ARP bolt for the stock rod.

 

...so I have a set pf Pauters in the one that spins over 7500...

 

but that seems like a LOT to spend to fix the one weak point on a rod that used to go over 8500

back when the bolts were trustworthy...

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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  • 5 years later...

I experienced the same problem . ARP has sent me two longer studs for free (see picture). They also wanted to know which engines had the longer studs so they could improve their catalogue.  I told then that every M10 until  the first E21 3-series needs the longer studs.

 

The studs they sent did the trick: AM4.020-1LB Vauxhall/Opel 2.0 16V Main studs.

P1050011.JPG

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Since the ARP thread has been revived, I wanted to share information from Byron about torque for the head studs. He said that at 90 lb-ft the head can crush a bit and bind the rocker  shaft bores. I couldn't find that post, but here is one with similar info:

 

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/179953-how-many-of-you-are-running-91mm-pistons-or-larger/?tab=comments#comment-1107151

 

On May 10, 2016 at 2:01 PM, Preyupy said:

Be careful if you are using ARP head studs, the ARP torque value is based on the strength of the fastener (90 ft/lb torque with lubrication on a fine thread) This equates to around 180,000 psi PER STUD!!!  This load WILL distort the block so you need to bore and hone the block with a torque plate!  The biggest problem is it WILL DISTORT THE HEAD and you will loose some clamping force at the half way point between the studs, this turns out to be at EXACTLY the same point on the headgasket that it is thinnest between the cylinders and also right under the exhaust ports between the cylinder wall and the water jacket.  At 60 ft/lb torque on the ARP fine threaded studs you are at almost 200% of the clamping force per fastener of the stock course head bolts.  THIS IS MORE THAN ENOUGH!!!!

Edited by FB73tii

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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