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Guibo/giubo Band And A Quick Test Drive

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Evening all,


Short version:  Would a short test drive be OK with the shipping band on the giubo?


Longer version:


I just had the center support bearing replaced and because I couldn't get the nut un-done, the center u-joint came out.  Since I was going to have to do one, do the other as well. 


The work was done by a friend, who does drive shafts for part of his job.  We replaced both u-joints and made sure the joints and the spines went back together correctly.  We put it on their balance machine, but it's designed for large trucks.  We were able to get the ends clamped (balanced nicely with out any changes), but the center support wasn't supported quite right on the machine.  It didn't move alot, so I figured I give it a try.


I put it back in the car, and on jack stands it doesn't seem to move too much.  Once other things are done on the car, I wanted to take it for a quick test drive before cutting the band on the giubo.  If it does need to go to a different place to balance I don't want to waste a giubo. I understand once the band is off, it can't be re-installed in a car.


Thoughts?  Is it bad to drive with the shipping band on for short amounts?  I probably want to run it up past 70 mph.






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I dont know what you mean, I've reinstalled a guibo without a band in my car before... More than once. So I'd say go ahead and snip it.

'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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You can reinstall a giubo after cutting the band off.  I used a jack to raise the bolt holes enough to line up and insert the mounting bolts.  It's a humbug, but definitely do-able; don't let anyone tell you otherwise..


I don't think I'd drive with the band on, but I can't think of a reason not to.

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New guibos are ok to get back on after the band is cut, its the ones that have been on the car for a while that are a different story. If you are concerned  cut the band and if you have to remove it put a big hose clamp around it .I recently put a new one on my car ,cut the band , took the car for a drive realised my "spare" gearbox was stuffed so changed gearboxes and put the guibo back on with out a problem.

72/2002 Inca

72tii/2002 "Apple"

70/2002 "Five "

73/2002 "Freeda"

2007 Lotus 7 Replica

2011 Ford xr6 Ute

85 E30 325

70 1600-2 "Orange"

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There are threads on this forum about re-installing "band-less" guibos.

The BMW dealer once left the band on after replacing the guibo on my '76 -- forgetfulness? stupidity? Anyway, unaware of their complete incompetence, I drove off. The band removed itself within 4 or 5 miles, creating much racket. I walked back, found the offending band, and suddenly had a new vision of my dealer's repair capabilities!


1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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I'd rather not hear how you didn't make it around the block with the band on your guibo...

It's mot a problem to reinstall a guibo after the band has been removed. I've done it hundreds of times. A little large screwdriver action to pry the bolts in place with a few light taps with a hammer and viola, bolts in place.


Tom Jones

BMW mechanic for over 25 years, BMWCCA since 1984
66 BMW16oo stored, 67 1600-2 lifelong project, 2 more 67-8 1600s, 86 528e 5sp 564k, 91 318i
Mom&Dad's, 65 1800TiSA, 70 2800, 72 2002Tii 2760007 orig owners, 03 325iT, 12 328iT

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 put a big hose clamp around it




Works fine.  Better than prying, as you can goober the bolt threads sometimes.


Cut the band, use the clamp.



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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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  • 8 years later...

Hi All,

This is by now an old thread, but relevant to me at present.


My Tii has recently started making a "squish, squish" sound in time with wheel/drivetrain rotation.  I thought it might be related to my recent replacement of springs and shocks (I didn't disconnect the half-shafts, thought I might have over-extended them). 

I had the rear end up on jacks today, and could not reproduce the sound by rotating tires, or driving tires with the motor.

By rolling the car slowly and listening from the side, it sounded like the noise was from the drive shaft, so back up on jacks it went.

I felt a very slight play in the drive shaft and spotted this:

Giubo 5.jpgGiubo 3.jpgGiubo 2.jpgGiubo 1.jpgGiubo 6.jpg



You all mostly refer to an 8-bolt Giubo as in Paul's picture, but mine is a 6-bolt.  As I vaguely recall from when I purchased a Getrag 245 5-speed from Metric Mechanic, Jim Rowe recommended the 3-flange shaft ends as thicker and more robust.  At any rate, that's what is in my car.


My questions:

1. W&N web site shows several different 6-blt Giubo versions for "up to 1969" and automatics.  My best guess is it's the 1969 version A26111100863.  Can anyone guide me here?


2. Paul's photo shows bolts alternating front-back, back-front on the flanges.  Mine is mounted with all facing back-front.  Which is correct?


3. As I look at hotos 3 & 4, it looks like I have an exploded rubber tranny mount.  Does anyone have a parts number for this?







Edited by Swiss 2002Tii
additional info

1972 BMW Inka 2002Tii  ?

1974 BMW Turkis 3.0 CSi ?

1972 MBZ Weiss 280SE 4.5 

2006 BMW Cobalt 530i (38,700 m original)

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I'm pretty sure you need the guibo for a late e21 along with the trans mount. The bolts should have the heads on the rubber part of the guibo and the nuts on the metal flange according to the factory, a lot of people put them in from the back in case they back out, I use new nuts and a dab of loc-tite do not turn the bolt heads on the rubber just turn the nuts. 

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Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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2 hours ago, Swiss 2002Tii said:

Paul's photo shows bolts alternating front-back, back-front on the flanges.  Mine is mounted with all facing back-front.  Which is correct?


1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

The bolts should have the heads on the rubber part of the guibo and the nuts on the metal flange



The reason is the nut side is longer than the head is thick.

The rubber guibo flexes, and if it splits or cracks, could flex forward.

The longer nut/bolt end could start chipping away at the transmission parts....Not good!

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