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What To Do With K-Pump When Removing Timing Cover On A Tii


Beck180

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I am doing a an overhaul of the timing system on my 74 Tii and it looks like the K-Pump is fully supported on the lower timing cover. I want to remove the lower timing cover in order to replace the tensioner system and all the associatedgaskets.

 

Do I need to some how support the K-pump in order to remove the lower timing cover on the Tii engine? If so, how do I do it?

 

I would absolutely prefer to not have to pull the k-pump entirely.

 

Thanks in advance!

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I suggest removing the pump.  Doing this will help prevent damage to the pump when you remove the cover/pump combination and allows you to replace the important hoses (oil return to block, coolant to pump and air to plenum) that are very difficult to replace.

 

July192008.jpg

 

Jim Gerock

Ruby Red 73tii built 5/30/73 "Celeste"

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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I suggest removing the pump.  Doing this will help prevent damage to the pump when you remove the cover/pump combination and allows you to replace the important hoses (oil return to block, coolant to pump and air to plenum) that are very difficult to replace.

 

Thanks. I've actually already replaced all these hoses. I did them about a year ago. Was really hoping to not have to re do all the linkages since I don't have all the tools to set them.

 

Is it unadvisable to suspend it from one of the intake runners after removing the two front muonting bolts?

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Thanks. I've actually already replaced all these hoses. I did them about a year ago. Was really hoping to not have to re do all the linkages since I don't have all the tools to set them.

 

Is it unadvisable to suspend it from one of the intake runners after removing the two front muonting bolts?

 

You could do that.  Do you have a puller for the KF pulley?  Make sure the plastic oil feed line does not kink and break.

Jim Gerock

Ruby Red 73tii built 5/30/73 "Celeste"

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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If the KF pump still has the correct rear bracket to the oil filter housing and block then there should be no reason not to let it hang while the lower timing cover is off.

Be aware that the crank timing gear is a PITA to get off without a real heavy duty puller. Be sure to get the new one hot enough, the crank cool enough, and it will slide on like butter. Just be sure to get it on facing the right direction the first time. Ask me how I know... ;)

Tom Jones

BMW mechanic for over 25 years, BMWCCA since 1984
66 BMW16oo stored, 67 1600-2 lifelong project, 2 more 67-8 1600s, 86 528e 5sp 564k, 91 318i
Mom&Dad's, 65 1800TiSA, 70 2800, 72 2002Tii 2760007 orig owners, 03 325iT, 12 328iT

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If the KF pump still has the correct rear bracket to the oil filter housing and block then there should be no reason not to let it hang while the lower timing cover is off.

 

 

Aw man. Now I feel like an idiot trying to secure it with wire. Working in a dim garage sucks. I need to install some lights in this place so I can actually see underneath things.

 

Thanks for the advice on the cam crank. I've got a strong 3-arm and 2 arm pulley I used for the crankshaft pulley and KP gear respectively.

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Somewhat in same boat as I recently pulled my KF last week since cylinder #2 wasn't delivering any fuel.

Getting the pulley off was a pain as my puller required removal of the radiator. 

A bit of heat and the pulley popped off.

 

What the heck, was going to drain coolant anyways (block also) this season and was going to replace the existing electric fan with a Spal.

Maybe I'll just replace the starter with a s14 unit I recently "found" in my stash while access is easier.

Gotta love just a bit of scope creep.

Colin K.

Malaga '72 tii

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