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15X8 Clearance Issues


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I finally set my car down on IE stage 2 springs, billy sport, IE fixed camber, 15x8.25 et0, 225/45 tires. I weighed down the frame as proportionally as I could in order to induce sag, and the car sits level from left to right at least, going off of ground distance measurements from matching points on either side. Front to rear seems level according to the rocker panels and a level.

I know larger tires require some metal cutting and welding in order to fit safely, but the problem I'm having is that it isn't the same on either side for the front. The drivers side clearly impacts the nose, the passenger side at its closest is about 1cm away. Neither side really impacts the firewall, but I could see that with suspension travel it would. No evidence of collision repair, I guess I'll have to perform a frame measurement to be sure. Sorry if the pictures are rotated wrong, the new site seems to not like vertical iPhone photos post-41320-0-72863600-1369074538_thumb.jpost-41320-0-31239100-1369074578_thumb.jpost-41320-0-89302700-1369074599_thumb.jpost-41320-0-54738000-1369074618_thumb.jpost-41320-0-85727500-1369074636_thumb.jpost-41320-0-78043300-1369074655_thumb.j

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I should add, the control arms have been welded for strength, but they didn't appear to have signs of warping when compared with each other.

This is probably the issue if no frame damage is to be found. welding control arms isn't a good idea. 

1974 Grey European Market BMW 2002 

1976 Yellow BMW 2002 "GOLDENROD" SOLD

1972 Yellow Austin Mini 1000

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We measured the distance between the nose and firewall portions of the wheel well, and found the drivers side to be 1/4" shorter than the drivers side. It was also brought up that the car might not have had enough time to sag. Seems that as the suspension compresses, the wheels move back, which should be enough to make them clear the front and start rubbing the firewall. Not opposed to the thought of warped control arms though.

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Welding moves things a LOT. unless if you welded them in a proper jig and did things very carefully, I would think they moved enough to throw things off. 1/8" on a control arm could easily become 1/4" at the wheel. Replace the control arms with known good stock units and then see how things are. Why would you weld them in the first place? They are quite strong enough even for some serious racing, unless if you are rallying (which I doubt you are on stage 2 ie springs ;)

1974 Grey European Market BMW 2002 

1976 Yellow BMW 2002 "GOLDENROD" SOLD

1972 Yellow Austin Mini 1000

A bunch of Bikes...

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Rigidity, it was recommended to me. I didn't personally weld them, I didn't know how to weld at the time, so I had my metals tech friends in the Air Force do them up for me. Replacing control arms is gonna be expensive, but if that's the problem, then it's the only solution. Is there a way to check their straightness?

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Rigidity, it was recommended to me. I didn't personally weld them, I didn't know how to weld at the time, so I had my metals tech friends in the Air Force do them up for me. Replacing control arms is gonna be expensive, but if that's the problem, then it's the only solution. Is there a way to check their straightness?

 

Who recommended that? In the future, get second opinions before doing things like this. I understand bracing the subframe, but simply haven't heard of anyone having rigidity issues with the control arms on our cars. 

1974 Grey European Market BMW 2002 

1976 Yellow BMW 2002 "GOLDENROD" SOLD

1972 Yellow Austin Mini 1000

A bunch of Bikes...

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+1

15x8's with 225/45 tires are WAY too big for a 2002 without major modifications.  those tires are over an inch taller than stock 2002 tires.

 

+2.  Those aren't going to fit without major modification.  7" wide is pretty close to the max that you can do at the front as has been posted all over the forums here.

 

Even if you do make it fit, steering is going to be heavy and feel unresponsive and IMO, that saps the fun out these cars.

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We measured the distance between the nose and firewall portions of the wheel well, and found the drivers side to be 1/4" shorter than the drivers side. It was also brought up that the car might not have had enough time to sag. Seems that as the suspension compresses, the wheels move back, which should be enough to make them clear the front and start rubbing the firewall. Not opposed to the thought of warped control arms though.

a good suspension will not "sag" with time.  after it settles from rolling the car a bit, that is where it should stay.  from your pics you will have interference issues on front and rear of the tire under any suspension compression from a bump or cornering.  have you tried turning the steering wheel?  that will guarantee contact with the firewall......

3xM3

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I know that Curtis runs 15x8 0ET's with turbo flares with 205/50 up front and 225/50 in the rear on his M20 Turbo. Based on that I went with 16x0 ET0 on my flared car. Running 225/50 in the back and 205/50 in the back. Full coil overs all around, dialed fairly low. My rears are almost dialed all the way down. 

 

I accidentally had the 225's up front at first and it was rubbing on the flare in the front, 205's just clear. Of course I had to do a lot of clearancing in the inner fender/ floor area. 

 

8409046730_00ef603431_o.jpg

 

8407951343_5d447872b8_o.jpg

8896652784_3f4bbfe54f_o.jpg  1976 2002 - M20 swap in progress -- Build thread - http://bit.ly/2002M20build

 

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When the wheels are straight, there is no interference at all along the suspension travel. It only contacts at full lock. I didn't expect these to fit without major modification (cutting the firewall back, flares, and trimming the nose lip). The car is currently just a shell. The only reason I put the suspension on was to mark where I needed to modify. I just thought it was strange that only the drivers side wheel has the possibility of hitting the nose, while the passenger wheel doesn't contact it. I've rolled the car back and fourth a few feet in the garage over the past few days, and inspected for proper seating of the springs.

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