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New Style Oil Pump ?


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Loctite 263 Red threadlocker - Primerless, oil tolerant, high strength.  Higher breakloose torque than a "nyloc"

 

Metric Stover nuts in M10x1 (fine thread) are tough to find.  If anybody has a souce, please post.

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Mike, 10x1 stover nuts are carried by Belmetric, among others. The problem is that the nut is too tall and the deformation does not quite reach the threads so it's as ineffective as the nylon on the nylock. I am still trying to decide if I need to drop the oil pan on my automatic E3 and do something besides red Loctite. Would really hate for that nut to come off...

Luis

 

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Mike, 10x1 stover nuts are carried by Belmetric, among others. The problem is that the nut is too tall and the deformation does not quite reach the threads...

 

Have never used a nylock nut on an oil pump. One could mill off the back of a stover nut so the deformation would interface with the spindle threads. Since I don't have a mill I would use a small air grinder. --Fred '74tii & '69

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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That's what I thought. I got the same thing. So is red loctite sufficient to keep the nut secure in a street application, that is, no routine high revving to 6k...?

well, it is sufficient to keep the nut on my E36 race car for 7 years of racing and on the higher spinning S14 in my M2 track car, so should work fine in a putter around town application.....

2xM3

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Have never used a nylock nut on an oil pump. One could mill off the back of a stover nut so the deformation would interface with the spindle threads. Since I don't have a mill I would use a small air grinder. --Fred '74tii & '69

 

As Fred's alluded to if the nylock isn't contacting the threads then nor would a stover nut.  The only way would be to shave down the backside.

 

The problem is that BMW is starting to supersede a lot of part numbers, some not so successfully.  In this case the part number for this nut is now the same as the one used on your ball joints.

 

EDIT, I like Marshall's solution.

Edited by AceAndrew
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The only caution is that the M10 is a buzzy little bastard, compared to the 6es.  I've had parts get free that were

virutally unremovable- except that the M10 vibes could do it in 4 laps.  M52, not so much. 

 

What a butt.  Without that nut, I'd do as Fred sed, mill the backside down, then drill it for safety wire.

 

On a race car.

 

one more reason to go dry sump, I say.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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