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Temp Gauge Is Still Fluctuating.....with Throttle...


Cupid
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Problem: Temp gauge is in flux

What I've done: Read every single post I could find.....  Grounded the gauges and cluster in every way possible.  Grounded both the temp and fuel gauges to the panel then the chassis.

 

The battery has a ground to the fender and one to the motor.

 

It bounces instantly when I rev the motor, settles back down and bounces again.  When I tap the accelerator (like you are trying to close a mechanical choke), the gauge seems to come back down.  

 

Call me crazy, but I promise you i'm not.  Here's the video.  Could a malfunctioning temp sending unit do this?

 

 

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/113397342402858441380/albums/5875355927110862433/5875355932597887570

 

Hopefully you guys can see it.  Quite comical to say the least.

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Could be a bad alternator ground.

 

I owe you a beverage, my friend.  You saved the day!  Now I can go to sleep and fight gremlins another day!

 

It actually had the ground there, but it was probably the same wire from 1969.  Place a jumper on it and voila'....she's super steady.

 

Thanks everybody!

 

Around 190* the needle sits just below halfway.  I'll still perform a flush and fill due to the nastiness within the radiator.

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I owe you a beverage, my friend.  You saved the day!  Now I can go to sleep and fight gremlins another day!

 

It actually had the ground there, but it was probably the same wire from 1969.  Place a jumper on it and voila'....she's super steady.

 

Thanks everybody!

 

Around 190* the needle sits just below halfway.  I'll still perform a flush and fill due to the nastiness within the radiator.

 

You know, now that I think about this, my gauge problems completely disappeared when I switched to my 85 amp alternator, even without grounding the gauges. I'm thinking you guys are on to something. My alternator was faulty (bad diode and would trip battery light) but still worked well enough that I didn't (or even the PO didn't) have to change it for quite some time. I'm thinking that even just a tired, old alternator with poor grounding could be causing a lot of the fluctuations that we see in our systems. 

 

Just another reason to upgrade to a new alternator. 

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You know, now that I think about this, my gauge problems completely disappeared when I switched to my 85 amp alternator, even without grounding the gauges. I'm thinking you guys are on to something. My alternator was faulty (bad diode and would trip battery light) but still worked well enough that I didn't (or even the PO didn't) have to change it for quite some time. I'm thinking that even just a tired, old alternator with poor grounding could be causing a lot of the fluctuations that we see in our systems. 

 

Just another reason to upgrade to a new alternator. 

 

You may be right.  I will be changing mine to the 320I in the near future.  I'll leave the voltage regulator in place for looks and just in case I have to throw the other one back in.  Same thing for my ignition system.  I'll change everything over and leave the ballast/relay thingy in place.  The alternator, points/condensor, & old coil will make my Road Trip Bug Out Bag (RTBOB).  <-Cheap Insurance.

 

BTW,

I have a 1978 Honda CBT400 in my basement awaiting it's transformation.

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