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The story of my yellow 02:

 

A woman working as a psychiatrist bought the car in my hometown, it was delivered 5. April 1974, she used it as her daily driver until she parked it in 1998. Come 2011, some guy looking for a drift car buys it.Took him about 3 hrs to find out that a turbocharged S62 don`t really bolt up in a 02. I bought the car three days later.No paperwork had been filed, so I am the second owner.

 

As you can see, there was some rust. This is a picture from the day I picked it up:

 

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Sandblasting in progress, adding lightness to the car.

 

Floor driver side

 

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Floor passenger side(hence the lack of pedals)

 

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There were some rust, so I made a upside-down convertible.

 

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After spending just over $20 on the car, and fifteen minutes, give or take, I got to this point:

 

All welded up, and ready for paint prepping: 

 

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In progress:

 

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The engine bay with new fenders and nose: 

 

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After some more sanding and paint prepping, and a afternoon in the garage, it was even more yellow:

 

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Interior:

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At this point, the car was prepared for MOT for the first time since 1996. 

 

The car passed tests April 5 2013, 39 years after it first was road legal, on the day.

 

Current "upgrades":

 

Bilstein Sport w/BMW trailing springs

Stock swaybars from 2002

 

bmw_zps8ff38aa8.jpg

 

 

Edited by Rustpile
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  • 2 weeks later...

OK, I`ve got the new engine, a 2,0 liter with a solex 36-40, and turbo. The solex is pretty banged up, so that needs a rebuild, or should I just go ahead and find another carb? If so, what? I`d prefer a single carb.

Does the 2,0 liter just bilt up to the 1600 drivetrain? Can I keep the gearbox? How much power can the 4-speed handle? Guess I have to find a 3,64 diff too, the 4.10 might be a little light. Any tips is much appriciated.

I live in Norway, we don´t have roads, we have tracks, avg. speed is 30-45 mph, and twice a year, you might do 65.

Here is an example of the great Norwegian roads:

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  • 2 months later...

I wrote a really long post, and closed the tab. 

 

Long time, no update. Parts from IE should be here  by next week. Getting ready for tranplant. 

 

Help required. 

 

What are these two for?

 

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What is the blue one?

 

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Plug and play wiring loom for E21?

 

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Is the hose going from dizzy"house" to turbo some boost-controlled ignition timing flux capacitor? 

 

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T0R92393_zps3e4c87a7.jpg

 

 

T0R92394_zps04308e0b.jpg

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Ah, but you selected the most interesting route in No.  It was the same in 1971 when I took my 2002 over that road.  I see traffic moving uphill has the right away still.  Same rule is in Colorado, but most are not aware of it.  We do not have many roads that the rule is needed.  My wife is a Riple from Riple on Fana.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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The heater fan motor was dead, so I went over the rest if the heater box as well. Fan motors seems to be stupid expensive(~$350) so I have to do mend it, or figure something else out. Didn't bother taking pictures, guess all of you guys know what I looks like anyways...

Got an email from a guy who wanted to trade his r33 gts-t skyline for my 02, the r33 isn't road legal, of course. Still, it would be fun to track, have to think about that for a while. Since I don't really NEED a car, and, well, I am 22, fast and the furious and all that...

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  • 3 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Long time, no update. Been quite busy with school, and the car is at my parents house, 200 miles from where i live. Anyways. 

 

1. Drill holes in manifold. Relealize they don´t clear the bolts. Also realize that the manifold is cast aluminium. 

2. Persuade friend to let me borrow his fancy welder at work. Weld up the holes. 

3. Redrill new holes. 

 

Bolt on new carbs, and replace pringle-chips steering coupler(requires a lot of lubing before hammertime). 

 

It looks all pretty. Or something. Still working on the Megajolt conversion as well. Really time consuming work. 

 

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It´s a good thing there is all that space in the engine bay. You can go really wild and fit at least three stamps between the booster and stacks.

 

DSC_0049_zpsc0d3c208.jpg

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I'm confused..

turbo to no where

stacks to the booster, no room for a plenum

and what looks to be a shot of Nitrous?

 

Just needed to know if it would fit, I am going to run the stock header for some time. Turbocharging is a "down the road" plan, I need to get the car up and running, and do some tuning before I add the complexity of forced induction. Also have to upgrade the brakes and driveline before I can handle all that power. It´s not nitrous, it is vacuum signals for the Megajolt. Although, blow-trough turbocharged nitrous sounds fun. Oh god, that must be the definition of complex tuning.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some progress; reservoir and FPR installed. To do list before starting:

 

-Adding the last bits to the fuel lines

-Soldering on the wire to the fuel pump, add the positive to the relay. 

-Adding the last vacuum lines

-Get the crank bolt off, and weld the timing sprocket to the pulley

-Fabricate crank pulley sensor mount(anyone who has pictures of the one from 02again?)

-Figure out why the starter don´t turn(ideas much appreciated)

 

DSC_0054_zps18126283.jpg

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Progress is slow, pictures are cool: 

 

DSC_0063_zps5cf6c861.jpg

 

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Got the steering idler arm bushing in as well, and the nut holding the crank pulley. Had to use a 500 lb/ft impact wrench. 

 

Sheared the bolt on the exhaust port. Not good. It broke just inside the hole, so there is nothing to grip it with. Any ideas, or do I have to drill it out? The MegaJolt is coming along at least. Just the sprocket on pulley and fabricate the sensor mount left.

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  • 1 month later...

Minor update: Linkages and other misc stuff finished. Tested the MJ, failed, no spark. Pulled apart the EDIS and cleaned it, relocated it to the mid-console(from under the battery tray).Solderd all the cables again, with a better soldering iron. Much better. Need some more shielded cable, testing again tomorrow.

 

Do I _need_ shielded cable, or can I get i working without it? I know there might be some interference, and it is sub-optimal, but will it work? I kinda, might have, err, removed PIN 7 where the shielding should connect, and I don`t really want to dismantle it again if I can test it without doing so.

 

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2014-02-26173620_zpse74f33af.jpg

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