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madpaddler

Yes another Carb question...CD? Long and probably painful

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Hi, Well my son (16) now has the affliction and bought a 76 that when purchased 3 weeks ago was not running. Now it will fire with carb spray as a starting fuel and I can keep it running so long as I mash the accelerator, as soon as I let up, it dies and appears to be flooded as it will cough and backfire through the carb as we try to restart. Can see a nice puddle of fuel rippling on manifold when looking through carb throats. Car will not idle at all.

History, installed: new hot spark along with coil recommended by the hot spark system. New rotor button, new cap, plugs and wires. cleaned and check all grounds ran fresh wires to coil etc... changed oil, fresh gas in tank

replaced all fuel hoses from front to back with new clamps, tank looks new, sender looks new etc...

I have taken loose the fuel line connecting to carb and cranked car to be sure the fuel pump was indeed working and works exactly as my 73.

Now to the carb...it is new looking 32/36 (a little crusty around the edges as you can see in pics) but all the jets look shinny and new along with the filter inside the housing at the inlet. Took all out cleaned with carb cleaner including needle valve. Here is where I am going and need input. This is an electric choke carb, but the idle jet is connected to a solenoid looking deal as seen in the photo with a red wire connecting to it and then attaching under the manifold on a sensor. I want to use the famous and great working prescription CD recommends as it is great on my 73 (thx CD).

I just don't know which carb series I have to buy the jets recommended as the ones that are in it are much larger than they should be based on the CD method. My float is a double that according to FAQ is an IDF series...should I get all of my jets with this series in mind? If you have read through all the previous nonsense please let me know if I am on the right track or should be throwing things in my neighbors pool, my son has already been tossed in...

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yes, do the same cd Rx AFTER you get it running properly . . .

but ~ ..... " Now it will fire with carb spray as

a starting fuel and I can keep it

running so long as I mash

the accelerator, as

soon as I let up,

it dies..." ......

sounds like an intake manifold vacuum port has lost it's

end cap, a vacuum hose is off someplace,

major vacuum leak ?????

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I'll check tonight on the vacuum leak...thought I did all of that also but have been know to miss details... but my question...do I have an IDF series Weber and should I buy the jets with that in mind?

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also make sure there is power going to that solenoid on the idle jet (listen for a click when you energize it to make sure it is working), otherwise your idle circuit is essentially turned off and your car will only run at about 1/4 throttle or more.

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also make sure there is power going to that solenoid on the idle jet (listen for a click when you energize it to make sure it is working), otherwise your idle circuit is essentially turned off and your car will only run at about 1/4 throttle or more.

OK, there is the gem I have been waiting for...the existing red wire from the solenoid is connected to what looks like the bottom of the manifold...I'm certainly no genius but that sucker does not have power going to it. Where "should" the wire going to that solenoid be connected?? That may be the bigger of the issues. Help me out with that if anyone knows...direct to ignition as is the coil?

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also make sure there is power going to that solenoid on the idle jet (listen for a click when you energize it to make sure it is working), otherwise your idle circuit is essentially turned off and your car will only run at about 1/4 throttle or more.

This exactly. I made the same mistake myself a while back when I removed the EGR solenoids. You need a 12V+ switches source, so tapping into any of your ignition power supplies would work (easiest place is off the + side of the coil). It runs to the passenger side of the carb, to a little blade connector at the lower right of the choke.

If you dont want to tap into an existing line or use the + side of the coil for whatever reason, you can also get +12v switched power from fuse 12 take out the fuse box and you should see where it connects.

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ok that makes sense...now I have a switched power wire that connects to the electric choke see in photo...is that correct? If so that comes directly from fuse 12 so I should be able to tap that to connect the solenoid in question correct??

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ok that makes sense...now I have a switched power wire that connects to the electric choke see in photo...is that correct? If so that comes directly from fuse 12 so I should be able to tap that to connect the solenoid in question correct??

Yup, if the electric choke has power when the key is on like it is supposed to then leapfrog off that, and use a green wire if you can so the next guy knows it is switched positive power.

You can get those little piggyback connectors for spade type connectors and it makes it really easy.

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Just to update those interested...goes to show you that suddenly replacing hot spark, plug wires, coil, plugs, wiring, voltage regulator etc... the old KISS system rears its head.

Turns out the PO broke a key off in the ignition and then replaced with a new one. In doing so he apparently hooked the lead to the coil up to the ignition switch on the wrong spade so as soon as the key returned into running position it would cut the power to the coil.

Good news is at least all of those parts are spanking brand new and all have backups now! Car starts and runs now just need to adjust valves set timing and tweak the carb and then start on brakes, suspension, blah blah

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The first rule of carburetor problems certainly applies here !

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