Rear brake work this weekend. Any last minute advice???

[Koblenz]

Ok, I read the posts. Got the equipment (new drums, shoes, top and bottom springs, cylinders, ebrake cables and new ebrake upgrade kit). I have the brake fluid, new res hoses, clamps, mc grommets and elbows.

I will be picking up a 3 arm puller and a 36mm rental from Autozone.

Am I forgetting anything? Any input is appreciated.

BTW, this job will not have an impact wrench. All labor will be grunt force.

[malaga]

Two words: brake cleaner, lots of it. Also, the correct wrench to adjust the big nut on the back of the dust cover for the adjustment cam. A nice 30 to 40 degree bend to the end of the wrench makes it so much easier and doesn't round off the nut. Good luck.

[c.d.iesel]

3-arm puller and 36mm socket ???

doing stub axle wheel bearings ???i hope not ?

that will take a week and tons of grunt and many

more questions?

[baller908790]

You don't need the puller and

36mm socket unless you are

doing what C.D stated or you

are replacing the backing plates.

[BillWilliams]

Few thoughts:

1. Mike Self offers a way of using vise grips on the inner part of the adjuster to free them up that saves the "nut" on the back side of the backing plate

2. Great time to replace the flex lines.

3. Use only flare type wrenches on the tube nut fittings.

4. Some like to slightly relieve the front edge of the shoes

5. Apply some anti-sieze where the shoes move against the backing plates.

6. Bleed the clutch while you are at it.

7. if you have difficulty getting the tube nut on the hard line into the wheel cylinder, loosen the two 10mm headed bolts or even remove them first.

[M3M3M3]

You don't need the puller and

36mm socket unless you are

doing what C.D stated or you

are replacing the backing plates.

+2

[Koblenz]

Sadly, the back plates are being replaced. I would rather be married again than replace them but alas, the adjuster bolts are perfectly round. There is turning them.

Thanks for the clutch reminder. I have a new line for that.

I hope is the bearings are in good order. I just want to get back on the road.

[c.d.iesel]

so if your remove the backing plates because

of dead adjusters - you will be removing the stub

axles. 40 years old and stuck really good -

no way to remove and reuse those original bearings.

They, the races willbe damaged in the pounding

& pulling process to remove them. TODAY - order

two rear wheel bearing kits. It includes bearings,

seals, cotter pin.............

inspect the stub axle splines and hub splines really

good after they are cleaned

[BillWilliams]

And pack the bearings appropriately.

I use a bearing and race set to remove and seat the races. Others have various ways to properly seat them.

[Guest_anonymous]

You will need at least a 1/2" drive breaker bar, I slip a 6' steel pipe over the end of it to bust the rear hub nut. 340 ftlbs is not a fat guy wearing a steel shank boot. So you will also need to find a high torque torque wrench to reinstall.

Daron

[Napes]

My advise would be to set aside at least 45 minutes to do all this work. :-)

Bob Napier

[thehackmechanic]

Any last minute advice? Sure. The rear drum brakes don't do shit on a 2002. Ignore them.

(the above comment is brought to you with a seriousity quotient of perhaps 8%)

[dbmw2002]

My advise would be to set aside at least 45 minutes to do all this work. :-)

Bob Napier

Bob did you say 45 minutes or 45 hours, 27% seriousnessly qwotient

[Guest_anonymous]

Like pouring concrete. First 15 minutes are free.

My wife asked me to run out and get a pizza while dropping in a longblock and getting my alignment into the pilot bearing. I guess I was past my 15 minutes of pour time.

Uh...take that as you want....yes I have kids now.

[Koblenz]

Thanks guys. I have since managed to "borrow" a garage with air. I just got home and I don't think I can order or get bearings locally.

The torque value is good to have. I wasn't thinking about that.