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Squealing noise from rear while turning?


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Hey all,

So, after I got my `02 back together from the nose job, I noticed what sounded at first like an annoying bird or a major air leak happening when I turned left. The sound was definitely coming from the drivers side rear. It`s almost between a squeak and whistle. I wracked my brain trying to figure out what it could be. I ran through all the suspension components, bushings, etc in my head, then thought "brakes!". Sure enough the noise stops when I hit the brakes while turning left.

I am assuming something is sticking or the rubber lines are holding some pressure on it. So, the next day I get off work I`m going to clean up the hardware in the drum and lube all the pivot points(already did the other side) and replace both rear lines with the braided stainless ones I was given that match the fronts. Then bleed all the lines to flush the fluid(probably hasn`t been done in awhile). The e-brake could use adjusted if it`s not frozen and I can figure it out....

My questions are, should I be wary of anything else? What all should be checked in the rear suspension while I have the car on stands? Does this cause sound remotely reasonable?



`70 Black 1602 - My Beater

`03 GMC S10 - Fiance`s Truck/Parts Hauler

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the one that holds the lower end of the brake shoes in place. If it came loose, it may be touching the drum when the brakes are applied.


'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Yes, all that delightful hardware back there needs inspected/lubed, which is the first order of business. The wretched 'W' spring, if it looks OK, I wouldn't touch it. But if you do have to put it back, then I've found the easiest way to get it over the tab is to wedge a flathead screwdriver between the center of the spring and the concrete floor of your garage. Push sideways on the screwdriver until it forces the spring upward. Then take horizontal whack on the spring itself to move it over the prong... and watch your eyes and hands during the whole process.

Anyways... another possible source of rear squeaks are the rear wheel bearings/stub axle splines. Theoretically, since they're not taper bearings, you shouldn't be able to do the wobble test on the rear wheels like you would on the front..... but when mine squeaked like that, if you grabbed the rear wheel, then you sure could wobble it around. The splines on the axle/hub can wear out, and the axle nut can get loose. I bought another better set (both stub axle and hub) from a forum member and replaced them. Alternatively, you might just be able to torque the hell out of the rear axle nut, and tighten it down better. Come to think of it, you might just double-check the torque on that thing. If it's at all loose, you got problems (like I did). It should be like 250 lb ft. on it (double-check that number). Most people don't ever measure it, and just put their full body weight on it with a cheater pipe, and/or nail it with the biggest impact wrench they have.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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I interpreted the question to ask the diameter and pitch which is what I gave.

He may have been asking the WAF which is 36mm, your answer.

WAF = Width Across the Flat or wrench size

(You can get nuts with the same diameter and pitch with different WAFs.)

For example, M8s usually come in 13mm WAF but there is a place on my intake manifold that M8s with a 12mm WAF makes it easier to get a wrench on.

Most nuts have a standard WAF and to get anything other than the standard WAF they usually need to be ordered.

"90% of your carb problems are in the ignition, Mike."

1972 2000tii Touring #3422489

1972 2002tii with A4 system #2761680

FAQ member #5

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