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mclac

no start no turn

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my 1969 2002 just died on me on the street. It made no noise or halt before it died. It just stopped there. I tried popping the clutch but it didn't work. It maybe had a crank or two and then halted. I tried just start her up again by turning the key. No noise and turning is happening. My radio and lights work though. Looked at the distributor points and they look okay I'll post pics to get a second opinion tomorrow when there's light. Fuel filter is less then a quarter full, so i'm thinking it might be the fuel pump. Any help would be great. Also while it was working, my stereo would go out when I pressed the brakes and my lights would dim. Sometimes the stereo would stay off and the lights gradually dimmer and dimmer. It could be a pinched hot wire or something. Any ideas how to look into that? The two problems may not be related but are really bothersome. Thanks in the future. Well while I'm at it, the hazards don't work either, but the blinkers do. And the blinker dash light is always on. More electrical stuff is that my head lights will only work if the high beam lever is pull down, and the electrical dims when I pull the lever towards me. I know it's a lot to write in a post, but if you can help with the motor stuff that would be great. You can ignore the other stuff. Warning: Noobie mechanic and car owner.

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the starter won't turn the engine over, and of course it won't start...if that is correct, then check these in order:

1. load test the battery to see if it's going bad, but before buying a new one, try turning the key to start with the headlights on. If the lights dim or go out, then you have either a battery or starter problem. If the lights stay bright, the battery is probably OK. Next...

2. remove both battery cables at the battery (negative first), clean them and the battery posts thoroughly and grease the terminals with a little Vaseline before reattaching. But before reattaching...

3. check the negative straps (there are two) at the ends where they ground to the block (big one) and to the body (small one). Make sure they make good contact with a clean spot on block and body. Wouldn't hurt to check where the positive cable is attached to the starter motor to make sure that connection is clean and tight. When this is done, reattach cables to battery, positive first.

Now try and start the engine. If that works, we can start advising on other electrical gremlins. If not, let us know what happened so we can go to Plan B.

cheers

mike

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okay just cleaned the terminals on the battery and the cables. Turned the key and nothing. Still no turning. Checked with a voltmeter and the battery is at 11. 7V with the key on halt. Checked with the key on Fahrt and the battery shows at 7.6V. Checked with the key on "o" and it's at 9V. Checked the starter positive terminal and it's getting the voltage. I noticed that my radio will be on when i'm in the "o" position but when I turn to the fahrt position it turns off and no power to it. I still have my oil and charge light on. Also noticed that the battery slowly goes back to 11V after I've had it in the fahrt position.

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static voltage will not tell you anything about the available cranking amps.I would guess a jump off 2nd car could help u determine if the battery is toast.

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So I dont have a second car to help me jump so I'm charging and testing the battery out of the car. Before i did that though I tried the bridging starter test. I dont know if I did it right. I had the key on the fahrt position got a screwdriver and connected the positive battery lead to the nut that holds the braide that goes into the flywheelhousing. I hear the starter motor spinning fast but its not engaging the motor. Like there is turning of the engine.I also had the car in neutral. Otherwise when I turn the key to start it is still silent

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well just put the charged up battery in and boom it starts up. the auto parts store said the battery is still good and holds the charge. Metered the charging system. With the engine on the battery reads 13.4 with no headlights and 12.5 with headlights on. At the alternator it reads 0.5 V higher than the battery for both situations. Belt seems like it can use a lil tensioning but i just did that 2 months ago and then did it another 2 months before that. Is this normal? My engine rocks a lot too. Does this also explain why the car just decided to stop dead in its tracks? And wouldn't even click when i tried restarting her?

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it's not the battery or the starter motor--apparently.

The fact that your car just stopped dead with no warning, but only the starter wouldn't work when you tried to restart (lights, horn etc still worked) points to a bad connection somewhere on the high amperage circuit--the large cable that goes from the battery to the starter, and the two ground straps.

The fact that you have now removed and cleaned the battery cables may have solved the problem--drive it for awhile and see. If it does it again, take your trusty voltmeter and see how much voltage you're getting at the starter motor--measure both at the large battery cable, and at the solenoid trigger wire (small wire on the starter). Measure current at this wire while someone holds the key in the start position. You should have 12 volts at both terminals.

If you have no voltage at the small wire with the key in the start position, I'd check the ignition switch. Do this by running a jumper wire to the small wire from the + terminal on the battery. If the starter now works, then the problem is an intermittent fault in the starter switch. Post again and we can help with how to replace.

cheers

mike

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when you say small wire on the starter do you mean the one at the 6 o clock position that is spaded or the one in the 9 o clock position that goes leads into the bigger housing.

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Sometimes continued need to tension the belt points to worn alternator bushings. Once the bushings are shot, tensioning efforts are short lived.

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i just bought new alt bushings the last time i tensioned them. I got the a set of the short bushings for the bottom of the bracket where it bolts into the engine and also a new bracket.

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Well my car did it again. Same starting problems. This time though I got it to start after a few attempts of bridging the starter motor. Odd things happened though. This time it died right after it started. All power went out, like no lights or stereo. I then bridged the starter (sparks flying) making the little starter motor spin, atleast thats what I think is the sound, but not the engine. Sometimes when I did this the stereo and lights would just kick back in. After many attempts of fighting the power outages and non engagement of the starter motor to the engine. It finally stayed on long enough for the ride home. Does anybody know what's up. Is it a problem with a starter gear or something. Or could it be electrical? Also, before this event the car was still having troubles starting. But i didn't have the problem with power to lights or stereo, so I just turned the key again and put a little more pedal into it.

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