Bosch coil (blue) and conderser question

[trumanwoll]

Have installed a new bosch blue coil (00012), correct fitment from 2002AD. Do I need to install the matching condenser (Bosch 1237330332) to make things work? Not having much luck with with the one I got that fits perfectly, is a Borg Warner part, but may not be for this coil.

Secondly I wonder if someone can definatively say that the resister in place can remain there or does it need to be by-passed? Some say leave as extra protection.

Things were running OK before service of plugs, pts, wires, rotor, coil, and conderser. Waiting on shipment of Bosch above.

Thanks in advance.

[JLENHAM]

I have this same set up in my car.

If you went from a running to a non-running condition after changing out these parts I would look at the gap set on the points. If you did not know the gap had to be set, it would be easy to create a no start condition.

When I got my car it had the resistor hooked up. I ran it that way until I figured out how to by pass it. The blue coil has an internal resistor, my guess is that the external resistor will only serve to (potentially) reduce spark energy. I could not tell any difference when I by passed it.

I doubt the condenser is your issue.

[BillWilliams]

I am with the gent above. Set the dwell if you know how, if not gap the points the old fashion way. If by chance you do not have the gauge a matchbook cover will get you close.

As stated above, bypass the resistor.

My experience with condensors, they are either good or bad.

[Stevenc22]

You need 3ohms of resistance at the coil. A blue coil should be 3 ohms already therefore remove resistor.

[Stevenc22]

You need 3ohms of resistance at the coil. A blue coil should be 3 ohms already therefore remove resistor.

[trumanwoll]

thanks for all of your very helpful replies. Keep you posted...

[trumanwoll]

Got the right condenser on the new coil, sorted out a wireing mistake, and it fired up great. On the advise of a guy I trust the resistor was left in place.

He claims added protection and no benefit to remove. Time forced us to address other issues so we didn't make a test. It ran great all afternoon.

With the old Solex there are limits to improvements. I believe the only solution is to put on the 2bbl Weber. The thinking is the accellerator pump section of the Solex carb is is the issue. I am at a loss on parts for it.

Thanks for your help all!

[Simeon]

If the coil is designed for no resistor then all you are doing is providing your coil with too little voltage. This isn't protecting anything, it is just making your ignition system inefficient.

[trumanwoll]

That should be easy to by-pass or reconnect. When I get him out of storage I will try it and let you know. So far most say it makes no difference.

Carbs: Giving up on the Solex 1bbl. Leaking slightly though the accelerator pump. Excess air no good, gas in engine bay worse. No parts available and not worth the effort to replace with a used part. Ordered new Weber 32 36 kit with manifold. Electric choke, will run coolant through it because I drive in cold weather, and with the new coil and full tune should be spot on. Just add headers and go racing!

Thanks.

[BillWilliams]

Well let me vote on the other side of "most".

Adding a resistor will hurt your spark value.

An additional resistor will not protect anything.

[sislane]

That should be easy to by-pass or reconnect. When I get him out of storage I will try it and let you know. So far most say it makes no difference.

On the contrary, I think everyone is trying to explain it does make a difference, which it does. I'd say go back to the black coil & keep the resistor, that was the original design & works great. But if you keep the blue coil, by-pass the resistor. You're just creating a weaker spark with it there.

Zenon's write up may be found helpful: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/index2.php?option=com_content&do_pdf=1&id=69

Good luck-

Scott