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My 1969 2002 Restoration


myc@h

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Aloha! I on the island of Oahu, Hawaii, and I came across my 02 about 6 years ago. At the time it belonged to a friend of mine. I pretty much immediately feel in love with it, but at the time it wasn't for sale. He eventually moved back to the mainland and sold the bimmer to another friend of ours who let it sit in his yard 2 blocks back from the beach for 2 years before GIVING it to my friend Ben as his first car.

After a few months of messing around with it, Ben came to the conclusion that the 02 would be a little much of a project for a first car, so i came over, bleed the brakes and the clutch, toyed with the carburetor a bit and got her running. I traded him some speakers and $200 for the title and drove it home.

I'm not going to lie, she's got some issues but nothing that can't be fixed. I'll try and post some pics as as soon as possible.

I've used it off and on for my daily driver over the past 3 yrs and now I'd like to make it my daily, the money I save in gas will help me be able to afford the restoration.

Here's a brief list of what I've done so far.

-replaced all front brake lines and the main line to the back brakes up to the splitter

-new fuel pump

-new alternator

-fabricated new mount to windshield wiper motor

-rewired alternator wires

-to many electrical connections to remember.

-replaced 3 of 4 CV joint boots. (They had pretty much disintegrated. I figured that out while bleeding the brakes. haha)

My main concerns I'd like to address and would greatly appreciate any help I can get on:

Running Hot. I runs cool 80% of the time, if anything its almost too cold. Standard running temp seems to be at about 1/8 to 1/4 of the temp gauge. However when I go up any sort of incline the temp jumps up to 3/4 of the gauge or higher. It hasn't overheated or gone into the red yet, but I want to get the temp to stable out.

Rust! I need to get the rust that is there stopped. My two main spots of concern are the wheel wells and the boot/floor pan around the pedals. Ideas?

Vacuum lines. There are a few lines/connections that are just out. Literally just there, hoses floating freely and connections without hoses. I've tried connecting them how it seems to make sense but it doesn't seem to do anything. I guess it will be easier to try and figure this one out once i get the pictures up.

It has a shudder as well. It seems to run a bit rough and has a tapping valve, sometimes when I turn off the engine it seems to have a hard time stopping and then shakes pretty hard as it comes to a halt. Haven't even started to try and figure this one out. I know I can adjust the valve clearance to stop the tapping, just not sure if that ties in to the quirks in how it runs.

My long term plan is to get everything to daily driving status. I plan on eventually either overhauling the motor or replacing it all together. I'd like to keep it as close to stock engine wise as possible. Especially the Manual choke, one of my favorite features. I do need it to be able to handle my daily drive of 100 miles round trip and about 2-4hrs traffic per day. (side note: Honolulu was recently ranked #1 in worst traffic in the U.S.A, which sucks. But when your in dead stop traffic and the people next to you roll down their window to ask about/gawk at your car, traffics not so bad.) I've ran it hard for a while to stress test it and see how it holds up. I've had her up to higher speeds and redlined her just to see how she runs and with the exception of the above mentioned items have no complaints.

If you have any advice or ideas on how to fix the things mentioned above, or some preventative measures I can take to make sure she stays around for a while it would be greatly appreciated.

Muchos Mahaloz!!

Shoots!

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"It has a shudder as well. It seems to run a bit rough and has a tapping valve, sometimes when I turn off the engine it seems to have a hard time stopping and then shakes pretty hard as it comes to a halt. Haven't even started to try and figure this one out. I know I can adjust the valve clearance to stop the tapping, just not sure if that ties in to the quirks in how it runs."

Set the timing properly?

And regarding the hoses, post pics and I´m sure people here will figure it out. Describe carefully and you´ll get answers!

Good luck (and whatever you said at the end that I didn´t understand!=))

Ola Gustafson
Sweden
-------------------
1975 Taiga Euro 2002 3685483 - Weber 38/38 DGMS - Pertronix Ignitor - H&R Cup Kit - TEP headers and Simons 2" sport exhaust - 3.91 LSD.

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For the rust you can try using Isotrol or similar.

Isotrol is not very easy to get it's a Swedish paint that bonds to the rust and strengthens the whole deal but you only brush the loose rust and apply on top of it.

I think it's a great way to protect the car meanwhile you get prepared or save money for the real bodywork.

I'm no longer affiliated with Maximillian Importing Company in any way, please address any questions directly to them.  -Thanks.

2002 "tii" coupe 1970
E21 320/6 2.7 Stroker 1981
E23 730 1978

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