engine and drivetrain my project....Help Please!

[myc@h]

Aloha! I on the island of Oahu, Hawaii, and I came across my 02 about 6 years ago. At the time it belonged to a friend of mine. I pretty much immediately feel in love with it, but at the time it wasn't for sale. He eventually moved back to the mainland and sold the bimmer to another friend of ours who let it sit in his yard 2 blocks back from the beach for 2 years before GIVING it to my friend Ben as his first car.

After a few months of messing around with it, Ben came to the conclusion that the 02 would be a little much of a project for a first car, so i came over, bleed the brakes and the clutch, toyed with the carburetor a bit and got her running. I traded him some speakers and $200 for the title and drove it home.

I'm not going to lie, she's got some issues but nothing that can't be fixed. I'll try and post some pics as as soon as possible.

I've used it off and on for my daily driver over the past 3 yrs and now I'd like to make it my daily, the money I save in gas will help me be able to afford the restoration.

Here's a brief list of what I've done so far.

-replaced all front brake lines and the main line to the back brakes up to the splitter

-new fuel pump

-new alternator

-fabricated new mount to windshield wiper motor

-rewired alternator wires

-to many electrical connections to remember.

-replaced 3 of 4 CV joint boots. (They had pretty much disintegrated. I figured that out while bleeding the brakes. haha)

My main concerns I'd like to address and would greatly appreciate any help I can get on:

Running Hot. I runs cool 80% of the time, if anything its almost too cold. Standard running temp seems to be at about 1/8 to 1/4 of the temp gauge. However when I go up any sort of incline the temp jumps up to 3/4 of the gauge or higher. It hasn't overheated or gone into the red yet, but I want to get the temp to stable out.

Rust! I need to get the rust that is there stopped. My two main spots of concern are the wheel wells and the boot/floor pan around the pedals. Ideas?

Vacuum lines. There are a few lines/connections that are just out. Literally just there, hoses floating freely and connections without hoses. I've tried connecting them how it seems to make sense but it doesn't seem to do anything. I guess it will be easier to try and figure this one out once i get the pictures up.

It has a shudder as well. It seems to run a bit rough and has a tapping valve, sometimes when I turn off the engine it seems to have a hard time stopping and then shakes pretty hard as it comes to a halt. Haven't even started to try and figure this one out. I know I can adjust the valve clearance to stop the tapping, just not sure if that ties in to the quirks in how it runs.

My long term plan is to get everything to daily driving status. I plan on eventually either overhauling the motor or replacing it all together. I'd like to keep it as close to stock engine wise as possible. Especially the Manual choke, one of my favorite features. I do need it to be able to handle my daily drive of 100 miles round trip and about 2-4hrs traffic per day. (side note: Honolulu was recently ranked #1 in worst traffic in the U.S.A, which sucks. But when your in dead stop traffic and the people next to you roll down their window to ask about/gawk at your car, traffics not so bad.) I've ran it hard for a while to stress test it and see how it holds up. I've had her up to higher speeds and redlined her just to see how she runs and with the exception of the above mentioned items have no complaints.

If you have any advice or ideas on how to fix the things mentioned above, or some preventative measures I can take to make sure she stays around for a while it would be greatly appreciated.

Muchos Mahaloz!!!:redspot

[Napes]

Welcome to the fold. One thing that would help those who can offer some tips is the year of your car. There are differences that occured throughout the model run from 1968 to 1976 and we don't want to give you incorrect info. The VIN would also help.

Bob Napier

[myc@h]

sorry, 1969. an e12 motor i believe, ill check in the morning.

here are some photos.

Yesterday, Sunday, I did an oil change. 3 qts royal purple 20w50 and one qt lucas oil stabilizer and new filter. I also attached the loose air pump hose to what I'm assuming is a vacuum intake on the intake manifold seen in the photos because it seemed to make the engine run a bit smoother.

Driving to and from work today, Monday, the overheating got worse. I disconnected the hose and that helped a little, but im back to running a bit rougher and it seems like it looses a little power with the two disconnetced. still the same overheating symptoms as described above, has a hard time when going uphill and now it seems i have to keep it between 2k-3k rpms to keep the temp around the middle of the gauge.

I am suspecting the thermostat is not working properly. I got a bottle of Prestone coolant system cleaner and drained and refilled the radiator per the instructions on the bottle, it says to run it for 3-6 hrs and then drain and refill as normal so i'm planning on driving it the next two days and swapping out the coolant on Wednesday night.

[myc@h]

more photos

[myc@h]

Some more...

[M3M3]

have you done a compression check? that would be first thing i would do on an unk history engine.

any evidence of oil in the coolant?

how old is the radiator? t-stat? water pump?

did you do a good tune up on it? plugs/points/timing?

[williamggruff]

A few questions:

1. Have you checked the timing? Hot motor may be evidence of a lean condition.

2. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Seems like you have some vacuum hoses that aren't connected, which could cause a lean condition, overheating, and the stumble you've described.

As for the rust, if there are no significant holes, and if the rust isn't causing structural issues, you can buy yourself some time by treating the existing metal to keep the rust from spreading. Hit the rust with a rust converter, and coat it with rust preventative paint. POR Metal Ready followed by POR-15 seems like a good prescription, but there are numerous products on the market. If the rust is causing structural/safety issues, cut out the offending metal and replace it, or get someone to do it for you. Playing Flintstones is funny in the cartoons, not so much in real life.

[jimk]

Looks like a 4 blade fan. Get a 5 blade called a tropical fan. May help on the coolng.

[Kpeters]

Looks like a new boot lid is in order, I would def use some rust converter on it before it chews up more of the car.

You can repair it with fiberglass in the meantime but have in mind that it will be an expensive repair later on if you want to replace all the panels or have them fixed with fresh sheet metal.

[myc@h]

have you done a compression check? that would be first thing i would do on an unk history engine.

any evidence of oil in the coolant?

how old is the radiator? t-stat? water pump?

did you do a good tune up on it? plugs/points/timing?

No compression testing done yet.

No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil as far as i can tell.

From the loss of it and as far as my knowledge goes, the radiator t-stat and water pump are original parts. It does have the 5 blade fan.

[myc@h]

A few questions:

1. Have you checked the timing? Hot motor may be evidence of a lean condition.

2. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Seems like you have some vacuum hoses that aren't connected, which could cause a lean condition, overheating, and the stumble you've described.

As for the rust, if there are no significant holes, and if the rust isn't causing structural issues, you can buy yourself some time by treating the existing metal to keep the rust from spreading. Hit the rust with a rust converter, and coat it with rust preventative paint. POR Metal Ready followed by POR-15 seems like a good prescription, but there are numerous products on the market. If the rust is causing structural/safety issues, cut out the offending metal and replace it, or get someone to do it for you. Playing Flintstones is funny in the cartoons, not so much in real life.

I haven't checked the timing. I'll do that asap.

I tried to trouble shoot the vacuum issues, I have the Haynes and the 1971 Chilton manuals and haven't been able to find a vacuum system diagram that matches my motor. I did find what i think is another vacuum connection point that i think may bed to be connected to the other open connection i posted earlier.

Any ideas on where the air pump outlet should be connected?

Also there's a large threaded whole in the top of the intake manifold. Am i missing a part? Or is it supposed to be open like that?

I'll post pictures of the vacuum connection and the hole tonight.

Sorry for all the noob questions.

[myc@h]

Looks like a new boot lid is in order, I would def use some rust converter on it before it chews up more of the car.

You can repair it with fiberglass in the meantime but have in mind that it will be an expensive repair later on if you want to replace all the panels or have them fixed with fresh sheet metal.

Yeah. I figure I've got quite a bit to spend in rust repair and panel replacement. I enfant to get her up and in good ruining order before fixing all the cosmetics. I'm going to start hitting spots with converter and a good primer to slow the decay as much as possible. Mahaloz

[thehackmechanic]

If it runs cool except when under load, as others have noted, it could be timing too retarded, or engine running too lean.

Engine running too lean could be vacuum leaks, which are quite possible since you said hoses are just hanging. Other than the big fat line from the intake manifold to the brake booster, the only other one you need on this car is from the base of the carb to the vacuum assist diaphragm on the side of the distributor. If others are hanging, either plug them at the ends, or trace them to their source and plug them there.

[Mike Self]

vacuum hose nipple that is open to the atmosphere...that's causing a HUGE vacuum leak and should be plugged immediately before the lean condition messes up one or more cylinders (ask me how I learned this).

And as was stated, replace that little wimpy 4 blade fan (that came on all US spec 69s) with the larger 5 blade tropical fan. Those two items may well cure your car's tendency to heat up when under load.

cheers

mike

[myc@h]

vacuum hose nipple that is open to the atmosphere...that's causing a HUGE vacuum leak and should be plugged immediately before the lean condition messes up one or more cylinders (ask me how I learned this).

And as was stated, replace that little wimpy 4 blade fan (that came on all US spec 69s) with the larger 5 blade tropical fan. Those two items may well cure your car's tendency to heat up when under load.

cheers

mike

Thanks. I plugged the open vacuum nipple week a piece of house and a bolt and it seems to be running a bit better. Still gets hotter then i would like going uphill or trying to push it a little performance wise. Yesterday i could only get up to 55mph in 4th. After plugging the vacuum leak I could get up to 70mlh in 5th before the needle started to climb. I'm going to try and adjust the timing tomorrow after work.

Also, i noticed the manual says to change the intake valve from winter to summer according to the season. Seeing that what I'm assuming is an aftermarket Webber carburetor doesn't have any tubing connected to that valve I'm essentially stuck in"winter" mode, sucking in hot air from around the engine.

In the mean time anymore suggestions?