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Just how BAD is the 76 exhaust manifold?


'76mintgrün'02

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I have a stock exhaust system and engine, with a 32-36 weber, pertronix and a mechanical distributor. I am preparing to install a wide band and considering upgrading my exhaust in the process. I have done extensive reading of past postings regarding tii exhaust manifolds and headers and there are as many opinions as FAQers....

The IE shorty header is a tempting option and a fellow member has offered what he believes to be a tii manifold at a reasonable price (up for sale due to header upgrade). This topic has almost been beat to death, but if anyone has a strong opinion they would like to get off their chest, feel free to send it my way. Tom

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Header. Hands down. Flows better I believe, but it also traps less heat. Sounds much better, looks better, etc. Long headers only, I'm not a fan of shorties

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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Honestly, it's heat it generates that's the problem.

You don't say what your intended use is- for something for pottering around

the Peninsula, the tii manifold's great, and even if it's just the stock non- air

manifold, it's fine, too.

Headers save weight, and with other modifications, will help horsepower.

However, they may move the torque peak up, which isn't really a great thing

for a street car.

Great for a fast- road or track car, though there aren't any tri- Y headers

out there- EXCEPT for the Ireland shorties, if you then run downtubes from them

to a y by the transmission (I forget if that's the way Ireland does them-

I've been putzing around with E30 shorties recently)

Any which way, the only real problem with the big stainless 76 manifold

is if (when) it overheats, it also drives up head and exhaust valve temps,

and tends to damage them.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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its weight...much heavier than even the earlier OEM cast iron manifolds--and all that weight hanging on the exhaust manifold studs will eventually wear the threads in the aluminum head, and/or snap off the studs. Then you have to pull the head to remove the broken studs and/or re-thread the head.

That manifold does, however make a nice anchor for a small dinghy, or, as CD would say, make a big splash when thrown in the neighbor's pool.

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Here is a photo of the "anchor" currently on my engine. From what I gather, anything is better than this.... Ugly, heavy and constricting are three good reasons to find something better.

Mostly a back road cruiser. No track time. Quiet is nice and I do appreciate low end torque. It is sounding like a stock, non-air manifold is the way to go... preferably a tii, if there is in fact a difference!?!?!? : / (There sure is a lot of confusing reading on the topic.)

I guess I am shopping for a used manifold, with minimal pitting, and I will use the one I have to weigh my crab trap down. Thank you for the input. T.

photo 030.jpg

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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a good condition, Used tii manifold with the same

320i heat sheild gasket that your car currently has.

Bob's Yer Uncle

power

stock

quiet

fits

no mods needed

Bob's Yer Uncle II

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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As far as headers go, I noticed zero change in low end torque. If anything more power. I did notice a tone change though. On a stock motor I believe it really doesnt do that much. I just like one less spot to have an exhaust leak.

-Nathan
'76 2002 in Malaga (110k Original, 2nd Owner, sat for 20 years and now a toy)
'86 Chevy K20 (6.2 Turbo Diesel build) & '46 Chevy 2 Ton Dump Truck
'74 Suzuki TS185, '68 BSA A65 Lightning (garage find), '74 BMW R90S US Spec #2

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Oh, hey, you have an air- injection manifold, not the 76- only thermal- reactor.

It's not so bad. A few lbs heavier, but the flow is no worse (Pat says better,

I don't disagree) than the non- tii manifold.

Don't sweat it too much, it's really pretty good for a stock engine.

I had one, and changed it when I had the head off. I didn't notice any difference.

...and a tri-Y that links 1&4, 2&3 is the one you'd want for torque.

There might be a trick that adjacent cylinders does, but I don't know it...

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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