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M10 Engine ARP HEAD STUDS


318Turbo

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Hello guys,

I thought I would post this here as there should be more information on the M10 engines on this forum.

I just rebuild my M10 turbo engine and decided to fit a set of ARP Head studs. I installed everything exactly the way that ARP describes. After starting the engine I noticed that after a while oil started to seep past the one washer and nut on the stud that is closest to the oil sender unit on the head. In other words the top left stud when looking from the exhaust manifold side on the car.

There were no problems before I stripped the engine

Has anyone ever experienced the same problem? This is very strange?

Thanks

Thomas

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It happens to the best of us. Not that I'm included in the "Best Of" crowd, but you get the point.

The head bolt in question connects with an oil galley. To stop the oil leak, loosen the head bolt, apply some RTV black, and hand tighten. Let the RTV cure for the time indicated in the instructions, then re-torque to spec.

williamggruff

'76 2002 "Verona" / '12 Fiat 500 Sport "Latte" / '21 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Prem “The Truck”

 

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Thanks for the reply.

When you say oil galley, I suspect that it is the oil galley in the head itself and not the block?

I sealed the washer on both sides but then the oil also started to seep past the top of the nut. Can I apply more sealant? What about the special lubricant that ARP supplies with the stud kit?

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Ah, yes. ARP head studs, not bolts. You could simply coat the top of the nut with RTV to seal the threads without having to loosen. Alternatively, you could loosen the nut, coat the threads with an oil resistant thread sealant, and re-torque. I'd start with the first method and see if it solves the problem. Loosening head studs and re-torquing them with thread sealant isn't ideal.

williamggruff

'76 2002 "Verona" / '12 Fiat 500 Sport "Latte" / '21 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Prem “The Truck”

 

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it may have nothing to do with your fancy arp-studs ,

but everyting to do with an incorrect $0.20 special sealing

washer located just to the rear of that area - sealing

a screw head for the dist. housing, also 'next to the low

oil pressure switch' ? do you have that special washer

in place ?

read all about it here-=>

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/60/61?cx=partner-pub-2478521489155222%3Aeolm2n-2i1w&cof=FORID%3A9&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=special+washer+distributor+housing&siteurl=www.bmw2002faq.com%2Fcontent%2Fview%2F60%2F61%2F&ref=www.bmw2002faq.com%2Fcomponent%2Foption%2Ccom_forum%2FItemid%2C50%2Fpage%2Cviewtopic%2Fp%2C997352%2F&ss=7360j1907400j34&siteurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bmw2002faq.com%2Fcomponent%2Foption%2Ccom_forum%2FItemid%2C50%2Fpage%2Cviewtopic%2Fp%2C997352%2F

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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My engine builder has also had this problem in his engines (oil leaking from the stud, not the distributor housing). He used blue hylomar on my engine, which I just picked up and has not yet been run. Not sure if he just applied it after torquing the stud (with ARP torque lube). Wouldn't want sealant on the threads between the nut and stud as that would affect torque value.

Fred '74tii & '69

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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