Jump to content
318Turbo

M10 Engine ARP HEAD STUDS

6 posts / 645 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Hello guys,

I thought I would post this here as there should be more information on the M10 engines on this forum.

I just rebuild my M10 turbo engine and decided to fit a set of ARP Head studs. I installed everything exactly the way that ARP describes. After starting the engine I noticed that after a while oil started to seep past the one washer and nut on the stud that is closest to the oil sender unit on the head. In other words the top left stud when looking from the exhaust manifold side on the car.

There were no problems before I stripped the engine

Has anyone ever experienced the same problem? This is very strange?

Thanks

Thomas

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have had the same problem remove that stud clean it off all oil and use Permitex great stuff seal stud and around washer and re torque, Now I know some will argue with this way but you don't want to loosen the whole head you will loose the seal. I learned the hard way and now I just seal that stud every time the head is off. Good luck with it.

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup, that stud is used as an oil passageway in the head.

And sometimes they leak, even with bolts.

Makes good sense that a stud would leak more.

John knows what he's doing, so try his way.

I use silicone under that bolt- and yes, it probably does screw up the torque

readings some, but a leak's not good, either.

t

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Toby is right sealant will change the torque. I try not to get to much sealant on the threads, I use ARP moly lube on threads.

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies guys,

I am wondering whether I could use the Loctite red RTV sealant as I have had great success with it when it comes to sealing gaskets on the oil pan.

So would you reccomend that I clean the surfaces properly and then apply the sealant to both sides of the washer and then retorque the nut immediately? What about the threads on the stud as it looks like it could be leaking past the threads on the top part of the nut as well?

So when I remove this one stud only, it should not mess around with the seal on the head gasket?

Thanks guys

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would remove the stud clean it and the top hole in the head place the stud in spin it in with the sealant around the bottom of the thread, spin in the stud to the bottom make sure sealant closes the gap lube the washer both sides and the threads screw the nut on and torque to speck.

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.