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trouble getting resto project starting

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So my friend has a 70 2002 that he acquired from a few years back and was sitting in his lit waiting for other projects to be finished. it ran when he parked it in his yard

we have stripped the interior and got the car ready to be stripped and painted. wanted to get it running first so we put new plugs changed the gas rebuilt the carb checked the ignition all te plugs have a spark. cleaned the distributor cap and contact points. but it just wont turn over we do have the radiator out but i dont see that as a problem jut to turn it over.

I have little experience with this car so any suggestions you guys have that i should also check would be appreciated.

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when you say "won't turn over", do you mean starter works but engine won't fire and start?

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or do you literally mean it won't turn over...as in the pistons are frozen? have you put penetrating oil in the cyls and tried working crankshaft back and forth with a big wrench?

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or do you literally mean it won't turn over...as in the pistons are frozen? have you put penetrating oil in the cyls and tried working crankshaft back and forth with a big wrench?

Sorry the pistons move freely we put penetrating oil to clean of the cylinders cause of some build up and the plus while we were cranking it. There is definitely fuel and spark and air but it won't start it gets so close but just won't get there. The sparks are quite small but I would still assume it would start and just run rough. I'm going to borrow a compression tester just to check.

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I know a lot people are going to frown; but have you tried a little starting fluid?

Don't run the engine without coolant, because it will overheat the pump shaft seal in a very short time.

This is why water pumps almost always start leaking after an engine gets low on coolant and overheats.

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A few quick checks for fuel and ignition. Make sure you have fuel at the carb. And old fuel pump takes a while to suck gas all the way from the tank. If you don't have a transparent fuel filter up front to monitor, either: remove air cleaner, open choke flap if necessary, use flash-light to look down carb throats, open throttle quickly and you should see gas squirting into throats. Or, pull fuel line from carb, stick in a bottle, disconnect big coil wire at distributor and ground it, and turn over engine. You should have gas squirting out. On ignition front, make sure points gap is correct, cap terminals and rotor are clean, wires are in correct order and perhaps check static timing (at TDC) to make sure its in the ball park.

I've used Quick-Start in the past. A little goes a long way. Sometimes enough to get it firing. But eventually you need fuel flow and healthy spark.

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i definitely have fuel flow all 4 plugs have a spark there is smoke in the carb if i open the butterflys after trying to start, so i am guessing that there is some kind of ignition in the cylinders. we tested the ignition coil it is still good distributor cap was cleaned of all the carbon build up changed the plug wires for copper core wires that we know work. my next step is to pull the valve cover and see if anything is stuck open or gummed up from sitting so long and adjust the valves while its open.

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That won't hurt but I don't think that's where your problem lies. I'd still check timing - do yo know how to do static timing? Or get #1 to tdc and make sure rotor is at # 1 terminal in cap. Did we talk about gas? How old is the gas you are using?

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You shouldn't have smoke out the carb. I'm thinking timing and/or firing order.

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That won't hurt but I don't think that's where your problem lies. I'd still check timing - do yo know how to do static timing? Or get #1 to tdc and make sure rotor is at # 1 terminal in cap. Did we talk about gas? How old is the gas you are using?

gas is new im going to set #1 to TDC and align the dizzy rotor to #1 if that doesnt work. im guessing i should check dwell on the dizzy points? possibly replace them and condensor and Ill report back my findings if all that doesnt work I really have no other ideas.

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Dwell meter is more accurate, but just make sure they are not pitted, and set at 0.016 There is a line on the cam flange that shows you TDC with cover off, if you don't have a mark on your front pulley.

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i have been busy last week finally had time to work on the car today set TDC on #1 set dizzy rotor to #1 tried to start sounded like it really wanted to start so i loosened the dizzy up a little and started turning while cranking and it finally sprung to life. thanks for all the suggestions everybody

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