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GreenSwede

Weber 32/36, manual choke has no effect on cold idle?

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As the subject line says, my car won´t idle on choke when cold. With choke fully out, it idles a little bit faster but not much.

I had to move the car the other day, temperature about -8 celsius (17-18 Fahrenheit) and I had to sit there keeping it up with throttle for a long, long while before driving off.

Drove the short distance to my fathers garage, and just there it one cylinder bailed out on me. Guessing a plug.

In my opinion it ran nicely this summer, haven´t really pushed it hard yet due to engine rebuild but it seems strong and responsive, and idles nicely. Maybe a bit of a stumble on deceleration.

The choke flaps close as they should.

Ideas?

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Mine does the same thing--there is not throttle advance (maybe not the correct term) when using a manual choke, so you need to keep your foot on the accelerator for warm up. Otherwise it dies.

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Mine does the same thing--there is not throttle advance (maybe not the correct term) when using a manual choke, so you need to keep your foot on the accelerator for warm up. Otherwise it dies.

Exactly.

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There is a high idle screw that you need to screw in (tighten) It will be behind the choke assembly. Remove the air cleaner (if it is the large stock one so you can see) and look behind the choke. You will be facing towards the firewall. This screw is the adjustment for the high idle. Adjusted correctly, when you open the choke and depress the throttle this screw will hold the throttle open (up) on step.

Hope this helps.

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There is a high idle screw that you need to like screw in (tighten) It will be behind the choke assembly. Remove the air cleaner (if it is the large stock one so you can see) and look behind the choke. You will be facing towards the firewall. This screw is the adjustment for the high idle. Adjusted correctly, when you open the choke and depress the throttle this screw will hold the throttle open (up) on step.

Hope this helps.

Really? I read somewhere that on manual choke 32/36, you can´t adjust high idle. But honestly, I haven´t checked myself. Now I will.

Thanks!

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Once you start it cold you have to keep you foot off the throttle or you will kick it back off the high idle step. When its warmed up a bit then push the choke in, blip the throttle and it will settle into a nice low idle

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Once you start it cold you have to keep you foot off the throttle or you will kick it back off the high idle step. When its warmed up a bit then push the choke in, blip the throttle and it will settle into a nice low idle

Again - Really? Well, I´ve never seen owners manual for it, just tuning manuals..=)

Will give that a go, as soon as a few other things are done. I was just thinking that the mornings in Adenau can be chilly, and you want to get in line in time to hit the Nordschleife=)

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You 're going to Ring? Lucky you! Doesn't the Blau Ecke have a fireplace?

Anyway, I'm not so sure there is an adjustment screw on the manual choke version. But you should be able to move choke lever at carb and see it move throttle linkage

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Yep, the plan is in april. But a few things to sort out.. I hope and believe this time I´ll be there. My brother goes there a few times per year, usually. Been there a few times, driven once. Not the taiga, but a Cooper S. An interesting experience.

I think they do! I doubt they´ll let me park in there, though..=) And I think we´ll be staying at the Sonnenhof this time, nice place with nice food!

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There should be a link that connects the choke plates (atop the two carb throats) and the accelerator linkage. It's pinned at both ends with itty bitty cotter pins. On your carb it may have come loose, so check its operation.

Have someone work the choke knob while you observe the linkage--as the choke plates close, you should see the accelerator linkage move off the idle stop. If it doesn't, check the link as above. If it does move, but doesn't increase the idle sufficiently, you'll have to bend the link to shorten it a bit. That'll increase the idle speed. Kinda primitive, but it works.

mike

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I used to go every year when BMW club organized a school. Hope to drop by this year early July. For carb, when the choke knob is pulled, the choke plates should close, and at the same time, on the side of the carb, you should see a cam lever turning that pushes open the throttle. Maybe the cable is not going to full choke/increased idle, or, as suggested, maybe it needs to be bent a little.

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Heres my o2 bits worth, Bought my new Webber 32 36 from Webber Carbs Direct, thought it would solve my 23 year old Solex problems, not, floats were so far off it was dumping gas into chamber with car off, choke fast idle linkage is non op and seems to want to disconnect from the whole carb, so.......{A} dont buy from these guys {B} learn to live without a choke, its averaging 20 degrees here in Siskiyou county and have done a good tune with a little extra advance, a little rich idle and a little fast idle {900-1000 rpms} stab her twice to get some juice in the jugs, dont touch the gas when cranking and she starts every time on second try, 60 seconds of warm up and up the hill I run, icey backroads to the post at 6 am, stay off the salty I-5 and within a mile she is ready to roar, who needs a choke, life is simple in the mountains, now my search continues for a real 38 double barrel, she will be called the 38 special

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