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Brake Booster and Weber DCOE 40 Clearence


willie002

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I've haven't been in the office very much the last week or so.  Been working on something kind of neat.  The 45's stacks and restocking the 40's took back burner as we finished a new M20 header.  Now the focus is back on the horns (and a COMPLETE kit listing).

Any chance they can be silver, black, or blue, instead of red?

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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All these options seem much better than the ugly Ramflows im going to be stuck with for a bit. :(  I just wanted something that would work and make it driveable sooner. But I think in the future I will invest more time into getting some sort of solution that keeps the stacks and still offers clearance.

 

I had seen the angled stacks and like them a lot, but I doubt they will clear in my setup with only 1.2-1.5 inches of space. Before you say that will clear, look at a picture of the angled stacks, their thickness the bend etc, now look on a ruler and visualize how little space 1..25-1.5 inches actually is. Heck 45mm in inches is already thicker than that (1.7 inches). So even a 90 deg bend immediately on the carb.... well you get it, its impossible.

 

Yes people will say "see these pictures! Plenty of people are running them no problem of course it will fit for you" but you must remember I have an oddball manifold which is definitely much thicker than it needs to be and designed poorly for space saving. Most likely all those photos are on cars with decently designed manifolds. 

Edited by crochetg
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get a better manifold?

they can be whatever color you want to paint them!  :)

 

The red is powdercoated on though, which I can presume handles the heat/oil/fuel spillage under the hood better than rustoleum.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Andrew - the pictures below sure look like a stock 2002 booster to me.

 

Not really, a number of us just use thinner nuts rather than thinning the metal right there.  And removing the airhorns in favor of a ramflow filter kills air-flow velocity (and power), it's definitely a noticeable difference.

 

 

IE manifold with DCOE45's full stack clearance with Tii booster.

 

photo_zps5883c174.jpeg

 

photo-1_zps6c6a34b4.jpeg

 

 

 

 

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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  • 5 months later...

There are two other critical factors that have not been discussed that greatly affect DCOE performance.  I have been told that the length of the air horns most be equal to or greater than the size of the auxiliary venturis installed.  And the other is the clearance requirement that most air filters (excluding individual socks, etc.) need between the end of the horn and the filter housing.  Maybe someone more technical can chime in here.

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  • 4 years later...

Thread Revival!~

 

I am having the same fitment issue. Does anyone know for sure if the 1/2" shorter intake from IE will for sure clear the booster with 45's?

 

I am stuck between the 90 degree stacks or the IE intake, but I dont know if the intake will for sure solve the problem. 


~Adam

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Adam,

 

I can't answer your question directly, but if you are worried about filter clearance at the booster I recommend the UNI filters with the 15 degree angled bases.  They easily clear the standard brake booster on my set up, with BMW manifolds, Solex DDH carbs and medium-length velocity stacks.

 

SNOW-PODS.jpg

 

Angled base model on left in picture above.  I used UNI Part # UP-6245-AST

 

https://unifilter.com/online-catalog/clamp-on-air-filters/

 

Using the Weber stacks, you will need the rubber "donut" that slides over the trumpet for the UNI filter to clamp onto.  BTW...Ireland sells a UNI filter set, but I don't believe they are the angled-base style.  

 

My setup...

4E1638DC-64AE-47C8-A25C-9AEB243A6820.thumb.jpeg.d9dde7a04a7df6c384ccaf7e3f397908.jpeg

 

the filters are big, not restrictive like a pancake filter, and they provide plenty of beautiful noise. ...and they completely clear the booster and battery.

 

Here.s a different picture

 

D6E0EA1E-0314-4449-AA7B-E7D7843C6AF7.thumb.jpeg.2ab93050caf95672b7fc796e1991feff.jpeg

 

Ed

 

 

 

Edited by zinz

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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1 hour ago, zinz said:

Adam,

 

I can't answer your question directly, but if you are worried about filter clearance at the booster I recommend the UNI filters with the 15 degree angled bases.  They easily clear the standard brake booster on my set up, with BMW manifolds, Solex DDH carbs and medium-length velocity stacks.

 

SNOW-PODS.jpg

 

Angled base model on left in picture above.  I used UNI Part # UP-6245-AST

 

https://unifilter.com/online-catalog/clamp-on-air-filters/

 

Using the Weber stacks, you will need the rubber "donut" that slides over the trumpet for the UNI filter to clamp onto.  BTW...Ireland sells a UNI filter set, but I don't believe they are the angled-base style.  

 

My setup...

4E1638DC-64AE-47C8-A25C-9AEB243A6820.thumb.jpeg.d9dde7a04a7df6c384ccaf7e3f397908.jpeg

 

the filters are big, not restrictive like a pancake filter, and they provide plenty of beautiful noise. ...and they completely clear the booster and battery.

 

Here.s a different picture

 

D6E0EA1E-0314-4449-AA7B-E7D7843C6AF7.thumb.jpeg.2ab93050caf95672b7fc796e1991feff.jpeg

 

Ed

 

 

 

Thanks for the reply! What is considered Medium length? I see some 1.02" available that I am considering. 

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My stacks are what Alpina supplied on Solex DDHs as part of the A2 kit. They are cast aluminum and don’t have a tulip lip. They were meant to be used with the Ti-Style airbox. The horns are at least 2” in length.

95D0DAC1-8EE1-45E8-AA0D-279712BAD9E4.thumb.jpeg.ca4bf085604d0d16e1e9f68c549c3ddb.jpeg

6A27BD20-9BF4-4E09-AE6D-F2DCEF5137E3.thumb.jpeg.4684e043149fbc8f3fd78de174d33f5a.jpeg

 

Ed

 

 

 

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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I replied to this earlier but my words seem not to have made it through the ether...

 

In any case, what I said was that those Uni filters tend to disintegrate over time. If you go that route, make sure you check them often to ensure that the foam hasn't started falling apart.

 

--

Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you.

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1 hour ago, Andrej said:

those Uni filters tend to disintegrate over time.

 

Interesting, Andre, mine have not done this.

 

I've run mine for 5+ years and 20,000+ miles.  I've removed/reinstalled them many times for various maintenance procedures and they show zero signs of disintegration.  Buy with confidence IMO

 

Ed

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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My UNIs are fine too after over 5 years at least (when this thread started, hah).  I did take the straight ones off the car and have them sitting on the shelf, and replaced them with the 15 degree bent one.  It helps tidy up the look a bit.  

Maybe they'll dry out and disintegrate if you don't oil them well?  Any foam filter needs oiled to actually work.  I picked up some air filter oil at the local motorcycle shop.  

  • Like 1

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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