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IE rod style DCOE throttle linkage: experience?


KFunk

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Try the DBilas one it's german, well made and works great it's sold in the faq store.

Hmmm, tempting... $183 is a bit more expensive than the other options, but not unreasonable.

I'd like some kind of testimony from someone that's used it, or some kind of explanation of its mechanism, though.... can't tell much from picture.

It looks kind of like the TEP one, just with a stouter cable and some kind of rotating lever arm that could really help. Not sure if that makes it as good or better than the other ones.

2096f5ecbea21daab5b920d3662527d8.jpg

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Try the DBilas one it's german, well made and works great it's sold in the faq store.

I have a slightly modified version of that linkage that came with my dBilas ITBs. I have a Lokar cable running from the accelerator up to the linkage. It works pretty well.

-David

1972 2002 - 2577652 Follow the fun

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If you do decide to part with the top mount setup, I'd definitely be willing to take it off your hands. I came across a used set of DCOE's with a London CT manifold that doesn't have the provisions for the rod style linkage, so I've been slowly acquiring the parts I need to set it up. Linkage is pretty much the last thing I need.

It seems like there are a lot of different options out there, ones that attach to the manifold, to the carbs, with cables, rods, springs, all sorts. I haven't had a chance to work with any of them, but it seems like the rod setup would be the most straight forward, and work the best. I know if I had the option, that is definitely the route I would take.

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Daily '74 BMW 2002 w/ Dual 40's

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  • 4 months later...

Hey KFunk did you follow through with this, the linkage?

 

 

Hi felix,

 

I'm actually about to order the IE top mount linkage today (finally!).   I tweaked my TEP one a little to make it better, but I don't trust it... the cable is frayed too much at the end (mostly my fault), and needs replaced, and I might as well get the good one. 

I was hoping to order an exhaust at the same time, but they're still out of stock...

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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I have London manifolds too, and since that it only has one eyelet bearing mount I can not use the conventional top mount rod set up and had to use the cable version. Would rather prefer the direct link but have found no versions for my manifold, open to ideas.

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I have London manifolds too, and since that it only has one eyelet bearing mount I can not use the conventional top mount rod set up and had to use the cable version. Would rather prefer the direct link but have found no versions for my manifold, open to ideas.

 

London manifold? Is this the Warneford manifold?

 

I have the Warneford manifold and ordered some time ago the single linkage from IE, think I paid $125, seems rather primitive compared to the Top Mount linkage, really not up for doing things twice.

 

 

 

Interested to see how you go KFunk. Post back when you install the thing.

 

Do you have any flicks of your current setup, that Race TEP website is shocking, does it look like this with some cable:

http://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=3_74&products_id=783

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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I ordered the IE top mount today.  It might be a few weeks until I install it, since I have to go to San Francisco this weekend, and then a wedding in western Ohio after that....

 

The RaceTEP linkage looks similar to that one you posted, but there are some odd bits and difference.  Not sure if I can get a good pic, there's not much to see.  It's all pretty hidden.  Carb mounting bracket pretty similar that one.  The TEP one has an extra bracket for holding to the brake booster frame, and there are some odd bits on that one that I'm not familiar with.

 

I think part of the problem with the TEP one is its just too long of a a cable.  It could be shortened quite a bit.  In any case, it's not a direct route.  The cable takes awkward turns up and down, and nothing good to hold it in place.  Maybe others can get it to work well, but I don't want to trust it for a long trip or autocross repeatedly, anymore.  I tend to be abusive on these things.   

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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  • 2 weeks later...

I route my cables through a bracket on the pedal box, or one (similar to Alpina) can be mounted to the firewall.

 

Could you please post a picture of the bracket and cables in action? I'm trying to imagine how this connects to the throttle, specifically the circled part in the picture.

post-34583-0-63841700-1371855037_thumb.j

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK felix, I finally I have my top mount throttle linkage installed, and I'm very happy that it's working well.

 

The top mount gives a way better pedal feel than the TEP one, much more like a modern car.  It's tough to describe, but you can modulate the gas much better.  It's way smoother, but a bit firmer.  It's much more fun though with the firmer pedal.  It's kind of psychological.  Before when I hit the gas, I just got full tire spinning power in an uneventful manner.  It took no effort to get that.  But now it's like,"Ooooh, I'm gonna push the pedal down hard and now I'm really going to take off!" and then it goes, and it makes the car more fun.

I can adjust the firmness I think so that it takes less effort if I want, by switching positions where the vertical shaft meets the diagonal arm.  Right now I have it in the middle slot, but I think if I shift it to one of the outer slots, it'll get better leverage and take less effort.  Haven't tried it yet, though.  There's lots of adjustability all around, so I have plenty of future options.

Oh, and synching the carbs is easy.  Just pop off two sock filters, put the synchrometer on the stack, and adjust the screw till you get the same vacuum on both carbs.

The big rotational mechanism is the real improvement on this, compared to the other simple cables.  It smooths out the force from the cable pulling, and puts it into a solid tug on the carb itself.

It seems like it wouldn't be too difficult to pop off without losing the carb synch.  Just a couple nuts with a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension, and pop the vertical bar off it, and set it all aside.  You'd only need in there for adjusting fuel level, and cleaning float bowl and needle.  The main jets and such can still be accessed through the round cap without moving linkage.

 

Now, it wasn't at all 'bolt-on' though.  I was hoping I'd get something pretty much bolt-on by buying from IE, but unfortunately I don't think anything is really bolt-on anymore.  It's a redline weber universal kit, and there were no instructions or diagrams at all (unlike the kit they show in the picture that has instructions included).  They tried to get me instructions from redline weber, but had no luck.  So, you're on your own, aside from a few pictures and a few tips from them.

They did warn me that my Warneford manifold would need some 'modifications' with a grinder or a dremel before they finalized my order, so I appreciate them telling me that.  Theres a big piece of useless manifold in the center that gets in the way of the throttle arms and synch screw.  It took a lot longer than I expected to get rid of.  I started with a air powered rotary tool for a couple hours, and that went way too slowly.  I eventually unbolted the entire front carb, so I could fit my electric grinder in there, which really took care of it quickly (be sure to cover manifold holes and other bits that could get metal shavings into them). 

The cable was also way, way too long.  IE told me that it didn't matter if there was some extra, but I didn't like the idea of that.  I ended up cutting an entire 41" off of the cable's housing.  Just wasn't necessary for that short of a distance.  I removed the cable itself from housing, and used a cut-off tool (hacksaw didn't work well).  The housing looks like pretty solid metal, and shouldn't need a cap on it.

For the cable itself, I looked up some methods to avoid fraying it when you cut it (my downfall in the past a few times).  There's a few ways.  You can solder the cable over an inch or so span, and then cut in the middle of the solder.  But, my cheap soldering iron couldn't get hot enough, and I was out of flux.  The other option, which I did to, is put some heat shrink tubing on the cable, and then cut thru the center of the heat shrink wrapped part.

Also, you're on your own for getting parts to connect cable at the pedal side.  I ended up reusing the brake booster mounted bracket that came with the TEP linkage, and reusing the TEP bit for connecting the cable to the lever arm from the gas pedal.  You could probably make a similar brake booster bracket with a piece of metal strapping, and bending it with a vice, drilling it, etc. 

Oh, and the bar from the top mount part itself is a tad too close to my 02again/FAQ strut bar, but mine sits a bit lower than most.  I had to take the rotary tool to it a little bit to get it to clear.

 

All in all, much more difficult than expected.  It's got great pedal feel, seems like it will be very rugged, and the car is fun as hell.  Hoping to finally autocross it this Saturday (last event got cancelled)

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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if you have to cut the cable felix go get a un insulated crimp butt connector( for wires ) slide it down to your cut point and crimp it.

then cut right in half with grinder(fast rotory)

the cable will stay nice and it makes for a emergancy stop.

 

 

 

 

btw, Is it wrong for me to assume almost all the webber linkage s are coming from redline, and are just resold as company x,y,z's. custom stuff     ?????

Edited by ndog
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Kfunk, thanks for the in depth reply, some really helpful info.

I'm looking at the Lp2000 linkage kit which is twin cable, mostly because it comes with the cables and is cheaper for me after postage. Sounds like your linkage is the lp1000.

I think the cables are super long for people like me with rhd cars where the cable has to travel further.

If its possible, some pictures would be killer, particularly of the manifold sculpting, the area where the vertical shaft meets the diagonal arm to adjust feel - can't quite imagine this, and maybe how you connected the cable to the pedal, you mentioned using your old brake booster bracket.

Due to being rhd there is rarely much information for me to work from to determine how difficult these upgrades are, which is why your post is so helpful. Thanks for the follow up.

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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if you have to cut the cable felix go get a un insulated crimp butt connector( for wires ) slide it down to your cut point and crimp it.

then cut right in half with grinder(fast rotory)

the cable will stay nice and it makes for a emergancy stop.

btw, Is it wrong for me to assume almost all the webber linkage s are coming from redline, and are just resold as company x,y,z's. custom stuff ?????

Thanks for the tip.

isn't redline just the distributor for weber stuff in Canada and America? Seems like they've rebranded weber as redline weber.

__________________

1972 RHD Auto - Sold

1973 RHD Verona - Project

1974 RHD chamonix - Towed 

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Sorry, I probably won't have time to take pics for a few days.  As soon as I get home from work, gotta hopefully mow the lawn, pack for autocross, and leave the house for autocross by 6am, etc...

 

The IE pic (shown below), does show many of these things.

 

2e105188-c41b-4bd8-9ce5-ce21eedbb16c_zps

 

It's actually a Warneford manifold shown here, and they nibbled out a lot more than I did.  I took out just enough so that the throttle arms could swing freely. 

 

Where the vertical rod meets the lever, it's not clear from this angle, but that is not a straight oval slot.  There are indentations that make it so that there 5 possible positions where the rod end can be held.  I presume if you use the outermost position, it'll give you the longest lever arm, and require less pedal strength.

 

The kit from IE comes with 1 cable, and can easily have a 2nd cable added to it (or they can include one I think).  I have plenty enough cable housing leftover to make 1 or 2 more, but I would just need a 2nd cable with a little bar soldered on the end.  I have one from the old linkage, but its not quite the right size.  You'd also need a bigger bracket on the brake booster, and way of attaching 2nd cable to gas pedal.

 

I'm not sure how much need there is for a second cable.  Just more reliability in case one fails?  Less force necessary to turn the throttle arms, but is that offset by the force required to pull a second cable? 

 

ndog: I don't think everything is redline weber, seeing as my TEP linkage had a little custom made bracket for the 02's brake booster, along with a Shimano brand cable, and another bracket that goes on bottom of carb, that I haven't seen in any redline weber kits.  Like I said though, I wasn't happy with the feel of it as a whole. 

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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