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IE rod style DCOE throttle linkage: experience?

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Has anybody tried IE's new rod style DCOE linkage?

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-fuel-intake/M10DCOE.html

Right now I've got the Top End cable linkage. It works OK and is fairly simple, but I can't get the cable to make a straight path to really get smooth with no binding, and the pedal range just doesn't feel right. I've just got a narrow range of movement that corresponds to my entire throttle. Maybe I haven't manged to figure out all the adjustments yet, but I may be ready to try the rod style linkage. I would really like smoother movement, and a full range of pedal travel so I can modulate the gas. Right now I just hit the pedal and GO! Maybe that's just the nature of 40DCOE and 292, though...

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Red Line makes the same kit, that I see on Ebay sometimes.

Norm

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Though I like the folks at Ireland... there's NOTHING even remotely as bulletproof as the top mount linkage kits. Astute historians will recognize this style as being common on vintage Formula cars. Mounts on top of rear carb. One screw to adjust balance. Not the "three arms, each of which can be adjusted or loosen up from use" stuff. Can be used with one or two return springs and cables (though one is quite sufficient). I route my cables through a bracket on the pedal box, or one (similar to Alpina) can be mounted to the firewall. Cable makes a gentle 150 degree arc that has never bound or left me with wonky pedal feel. Adjustable bell crank pin position for variable "quickness" of pedal travel.

Simply the best out there IMHO.

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/product_p/pm3714.htm

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Ooooh, so everything will be set up for a 2002? The Pierce one (and Red-line ones) I found state universal, which worries me. Once I have to start piecing stuff together myself, the quality and reliability goes down....

that top mount one worries me a little since it does involve a cable. I'm not a big fan of cables, period. The old 32/36 linkage was just a rod and gave me no trouble. But when I switched to the cable that came with my carbs, and then the TEP cable, I have not had good experiences. Also, my truck has a near stock cable, and even that failed on me.

But if the consensus is that the top mount one is my best option, then I may do it.

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Here is a pic of a variation on the theme, which uses a cable for actuation and doesn't have as many adjustable pieces. I like the cable because it gives you more flexibility in mounting and location of both the beginning and end points. Also, this setup makes it much easier to balance the carbs.

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Thought about a cable setup when I installed my down drafts. Came up with this using most of the original bits. Could not be happier.

Earl

74 02Lux

02 M Roadster

72 Volvo 1800ES

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what kind of manifold do you have?

I have a Warneford manifold. I'm leaning towards the IE top mount one at this point. Paul's explanation sounds pretty convincing. I'm just tired of my 2nd not-so-perfect linkage, and dealing with it. I want the final solution. Anything made by me is going to end up half-assed, I know that.

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I custom fabricated a DCOE cable assembly and then switched to the throttle rod style. Some manifolds won't accommodate the rod ends correctly. Two other considerations I had were securing the end of the rod on the firewall to avoid unnecessary torque (some argue against this due to vibration) and lengthening the activation lever so the linkage geometry was more perpendicular. Original vertical linkage/pedal box lever were used. Considered the top-mount system too complex and restrictive to carb access. The IE setup isn't much different from all the others (Pierce, Redline, etc.). Since manifolds vary, you may need different throttle levers and drop arms, etc., for the best fit. The original ti manifold/linkage doesn't work well due to loss of choke assembly. My install is dismantled right now or I would take some pics.

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One drawback to the top mount may be that it looks like you have to dismantle it to get carb top/jet cover off that carb. Not sure if that screws up balance adjustment. IE pushrod arrangement gives better access. It also has a range of settings that would allow some latitude in linkage travel. Haven't tried either - I have ti style manifolds with pull rods. I also recommend the turbine style synchronizer if you don't have one.

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I have the system from TEP and, after fixing my mistakes while mounting it, it is really nice. Easy to balance the carbs and still access stuff. Just take your time and stare at stuff and think a lot...I tend to rush through and end up wasting a bunch of time doing it two or three more times...;-)

Stephen

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Try the DBilas one it's german, well made and works great it's sold in the faq store.

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