Jump to content
Pierre

So I painted my e12 with a roller

31 posts / 6895 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Nice!

I've heard of a bunch of people doing this with fantastic results. Did you use rustoleum or another brand?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what depth nap on the roller? lol.

my first SCCA race car was painted rustoleum safety yellow with a roller by the previous owner. he gave me a touch up kit when i bought the car..consisted of a 12in roller and a gallon of safety yellow.

ugliest bmw race car in US...until the lemon series started...

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used Valspar Armor anti-Rust oil based enamel. It is supposed to be the same as Rustoleum except that it comes in a base stock which allows you to get it tinted the color you want.

I picked up a stack of swatches and matched it to the inner fender of my car. W21 Linen thread is VERY CLOSE to Chamonix. I asked the paint guy at my local Do it Center to mix me 2 quarts. I did 3 coats and used 1 1/2 quarts of paint. At $11.99 a quart, I can't complain. I spend under $50 for EVERYTHING. (Paint, rollers, trays, sand paper, brushes and masking tape.)

I also use an extra smooth sponge roller. Under certain lights and up close, you can see roller marks. On the last coat, I tried to be as consistent as possible and rolled in one direction with minimal stops. There is an obvious learning curve. I could see the results after each coat dried. I wet sanded and rolled again and the results improved. The 3rd coat was even better but not much. There was no point in a repeat.

I do plan to sand it one more time and spray the car to see if I can in fact create a continous smooth surface but I am saving that project for a later date. I want to see how well this paint holds out first. Spraying needs a lot of prep.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
it hardly looked like it needed repainting at all!

It did. One word: rust. Phil was rusting away, mostly on the surface. The area around the sunroof was starting to look scary. The bottom of the doors were rusting through. Rust was showing up behind the moldings, around the windshield, under the roundel emblems. The rockers were also started to rust through. I had to stop the progression of rust. I have been meaning to intervene for 2 years. The longer I waited, the worse it got of course. So as soon as I got done with my previous project (an S52 swap in a 318ti) and got some garage space to tackle it, I dove in. I got in too deep of course. a simple repaint turned into removing emblems, deleting side moldings, side markers and C-pillar vents. See, I also suffer from "whileyouareintheretis."

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the midwest, we call that a sunburn. Real rust is when you can retrieve items from your trunk through your quarter panels!

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

My friends Chamonix 76 2002 has a PHL plate also - Get a picture for you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I used Valspar Armor anti-Rust oil based enamel. It is supposed to be the same as Rustoleum except that it comes in a base stock which allows you to get it tinted the color you want.

I picked up a stack of swatches and matched it to the inner fender of my car. W21 Linen thread is VERY CLOSE to Chamonix. I asked the paint guy at my local Do it Center to mix me 2 quarts. I did 3 coats and used 1 1/2 quarts of paint. At $11.99 a quart, I can't complain. I spend under $50 for EVERYTHING. (Paint, rollers, trays, sand paper, brushes and masking tape.)

I also use an extra smooth sponge roller. Under certain lights and up close, you can see roller marks. On the last coat, I tried to be as consistent as possible and rolled in one direction with minimal stops. There is an obvious learning curve. I could see the results after each coat dried. I wet sanded and rolled again and the results improved. The 3rd coat was even better but not much. There was no point in a repeat.

I do plan to sand it one more time and spray the car to see if I can in fact create a continous smooth surface but I am saving that project for a later date. I want to see how well this paint holds out first. Spraying needs a lot of prep.

Congrats!

Did you use anything to cut or thin the paint? I didn't see you mention it above.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I used Valspar Armor anti-Rust oil based enamel. It is supposed to be the same as Rustoleum except that it comes in a base stock which allows you to get it tinted the color you want.

I picked up a stack of swatches and matched it to the inner fender of my car. W21 Linen thread is VERY CLOSE to Chamonix. I asked the paint guy at my local Do it Center to mix me 2 quarts. I did 3 coats and used 1 1/2 quarts of paint. At $11.99 a quart, I can't complain. I spend under $50 for EVERYTHING. (Paint, rollers, trays, sand paper, brushes and masking tape.)

I also use an extra smooth sponge roller. Under certain lights and up close, you can see roller marks. On the last coat, I tried to be as consistent as possible and rolled in one direction with minimal stops. There is an obvious learning curve. I could see the results after each coat dried. I wet sanded and rolled again and the results improved. The 3rd coat was even better but not much. There was no point in a repeat.

I do plan to sand it one more time and spray the car to see if I can in fact create a continous smooth surface but I am saving that project for a later date. I want to see how well this paint holds out first. Spraying needs a lot of prep.

Congrats!

Did you use anything to cut or thin the paint? I didn't see you mention it above. If so, what did you use?

If not, why not?

The reason I ask is that I had heard that helps to smooth out the roller marks, etc. ... but it may require more coats.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did not thin the paint. I have read and heard all sorts of claims from numerous sources about thinning including the claim that thinning and applying a thinner coats can reduce roller and brush marks. But it also tends to show drip marks on vertical panels.

The Valspar paint can specifically mentions: No thinning. Rustoleum also discourages thinning and allow a 5% thinning if absolutely necessary.

I am going to experiment with spraying. Some have claimed that I could use it full strength with an HVLP gun as long as I use the proper nozzle size. Others have said I could thin it with mineral spirits up to 30%.

I do have a parts car. I may just pick a panel and experiment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

awesome job, has anyone considered roll and tip l.P paint

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You need surfboard racks. When I lived near Santa Cruz, there were a number of surf cars painted this way. Typically a VW camper van that would change colors a couple times a year. Try chalkboard paint next time and make a BMW Artcar.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.