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1967 1600-2 : Some Assembly Required


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Well I had big plans for this past Sunday. Get rotisserie to body mounts fabbed, put car on rotisserie, etc. Well none of that happened. My welder buddy had some issues getting all his equipment together and then found he had no gas in the bottle. So, hopefully we will get to throw down this weekend.

I didn't get much done other than some more paint removal. This lead to the realization that

A) I no longer want to sand at all. Ever.

B) Even if I did I can't get everywhere like I want to.

I've decided that it's best to spend a few hundred bucks to have it professionally soda/glass bead blasted. Even though I don't really want to spend the money, it'll at least save me lots of time. I've emailed a few shops and I think one will come to me (for a bit extra) which would allow me to get it put up on the rotisserie first and have them do a complete job. Anyone have any experience with having a soda blasting company come in and do this type of work?

Finally some Pictures:

Some of the worst rust on the car


Under fender sanded:


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  • 3 weeks later...

After much Ado we finally got to fabricating the rotisserie to body mounts.

Started with some bare steel.


The long square tube will be for the back mounts. The shorter pieces will be stacked on eachother for the front mounts. Much like the pictures found here -->http://www.2002tii-restoration.org/tools/rotisserie.htm

Started by drilling lots and lots of holes. My buddy chris's antique drill press really saved the day.


next we needed to add a bit of material to meet the rear subframe mount - washers did the trick.



Washers welded, holes drilled. Time for a test fit. I already had the suspension off the flared 73 so it did the honors.





To complete the rear we needed to fab the mounts thru the diff to attach to the long square tube. Decided to just weld everything together instead of bolting the arms together. Terrible design for storage, but will do the trick for now.




Finally we mocked the front mounts up. Idea was to have them attach where the subframe does. only using 2/3 holes though. We only had time to test fit to make sure we drilled proper holes so the mounts are only tacked together for now. Will complete these next week.


Below is a picture of the bottom side of the mount - drilled a 1'' hole to allow a deep well socket to reach the bolt head.


Pretty excited about getting this together to finally get the car up in the air. Going to work on stripping the subframe off the 67 and getting the rotisseries in place. I've never welded before so I'm waiting until i have supervision again to finish the front mounts.

One of my first welds - not pretty.


But after some practice I got them looking better.


Can't wait to get this in the air and have it media blasted. Getting closer to paint!

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Rotisseries rock!

About those welds.....

Can you see if there was enough heat to penetrate the thicker piece?

it looks to me to be quite thick on top but not much discoloring which is an indicator of proper penetration. hard to say with those pics but just in case....

I would cut up some scraps of that tubing, create a good clean, chamfered and tight joint and practice my welds and inspect them from the inside to see any penetration indicators. Adjust settings and repeat till you are happy with the results.

Apart from that, enjoy the rebuild! Mine has been sitting for 2 years on the rotisserie with nil progress...Sigh.....

More power!

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I knew I'd get some comments on the welds. I certainly need all the feedback I can get! Thank you for the comment

From what I (and my buddy who actually knows what he's doing) can tell the welds are good to go. But there some that do look questionable. I'll definitely be going back and making sure they're right...don't want any catastrophic failures while I've got my car suspended in the air!!


In other news I just snagged some M20 Mounts and a 323i 5speed overdrive transmission. I'm excited to not have to cut and refab my tunnel for the Getrag 260 now, but I'll have to find a driveshaft to have appropriately sized. The one nice thing about the 260 is the stock e30 driveshaft fits perfect.

Also, My Super ETA M20 is done at the shop. Should be picking it up next week.

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Thanks for the thought! I think you're probably right.

The 1600 doesn't have a lot of trim to begin with, really all i need to replace is the belt line and rain gutter trim. Consequently that's the trim I like the best. I'll have to see what I can work out when I get closer.

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I knew I'd get some comments on the welds. I certainly need all the feedback I can get! Thank you for the comment

From what I (and my buddy who actually knows what he's doing) can tell the welds are good to go. But there some that do look questionable. I'll definitely be going back and making sure they're right...don't want any catastrophic failures while I've got my car suspended in the air!!


In other news I just snagged some M20 Mounts and a 323i 5speed overdrive transmission. I'm excited to not have to cut and refab my tunnel for the Getrag 260 now, but I'll have to find a driveshaft to have appropriately sized. The one nice thing about the 260 is the stock e30 driveshaft fits perfect.

Also, My Super ETA M20 is done at the shop. Should be picking it up next week.

Hey. Thought I'd offer some suggestions. First off you need to clean the metal first. Steel comes with a layer of protectant (cant remember its name) from the steel mill thats needs to be ground off it get a clean weld. Just like painting, the key to good looking welds and fabrication is prep. Clean metal and small gaps. Second you need to turn you heat up, or preheat the metal with a simple gas torch if it is to much for your small welder to handle by its self. If your welds are piling up like that you know you ether are not burning hot enough, your wire speed is to fast, or both.

Great project! Keep up the great work!

Cheers from the German!!!


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Lots of exciting things going on, but I'm tired so I'll just leave a few pictures of what still has me laughing like an idiot and grinning from ear to ear.

And in case anyone was concerned, we cleaned up the welds, and they looked good (for the most part) under all that piled up metal. We did fix a few spots though. Thanks for the tips!

That being said....











Sorry for the crummy iphone picture quality...once my shop becomes less dusty i'll start bringing a nicer camera over.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been busy working and trying to get my house cleaned up to sell, finally have a few minutes to think about the car!

First lets recap what's going on with the shell. It's still on the rotisserie (still way cool BTW), and is over at Epic Coatings and Blast in Louisville. They've blasted it with soda and sand and have most of it stripped. They're running into some issues getting some of the undercoating off and I'm debating wether or not to have them keep blasting as this endeavor has become more expensive than I expected. I've got Friday morning off so I'll go over to the shop to see the progress and decide how to proceed.


Once they're done blasting I'll have them wash off the soda residue so it's ready for paint. From there I'll need to:

  • Mock up / test fit the engine and transmission
  • Repair any rust damage to bottom of car
  • Paint undercarriage / apply truck bed liner
  • Install suspension to roll to paint shop
  • Bodywork and paint
  • Reassembly

lets keep in mind that the last two steps will be very large steps. I'm glad that I'm a lot closer now though!


On the parts front I've got my Super Eta engine back from the shop. Still not totally complete. Kind of wish I'd have had a machine shop do what I couldn't and done the rest myself. Would have saved lots. either way it's gonna be awesome! Need to powdercoat a few parts and button it up to complete the build!




I was going to use a Getrag 260 out of an e30 since the driveshaft is a plug and play fit and the euro e20 323i 5speeds are super rare. The big downside is that the trans tunnel needs some pretty serious modificaiton because the 260 is huge. Ended up stumbling upon one on the FAQ and pulled the trigger. Now i just have to get a stock driveshaft shortned.



Been doing a little more parts hoarding. Picked up a beautifull looking sunroof crank, a rebuilt heater valve and these new H&R springs! It was between H&R and IE, and i found the H&R's for a bit cheaper so they won the day. Seems like everyone likes both options so hopefully no big deal.



I'm kind of nervous about the reassembly stage of this journey. Up till now the majority of my experience is with deconstruction. My brain keeps telling me that this is a huge job and I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'm doing the best I can to cut this into managable sections and goals. I'll be out of town for about a week and will hopefully be moving to a new house shortly after that...gonna have to make some time to go hard on the project.


I've been thinking about picking up a Sandblast cabinet and a small sandblast pot to clean up small parts. Also thinking about investing in a harbor freight/ eastwood powdercoating kit. Does anyone have any advice/experience with the 'cheap' harbor freight stuff?

Edited by dasfrogger
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  • 3 weeks later...

The sand/soda blast shop finished up with the 1600-2 on Friday and I was able to get the day off work today to go get it back to the shop. Over all i wish they had used a little bit more sand instead of soda to take care of the surface rust. There's a lot more surface rust left than I had expected and their attention to detail wasn't the best when it came to some of the nooks/crannies. All that being said i had pretty high expectations and it's pretty good looking.


From here we will:

  • fix the metal the rust ruined
  • primer the car
  • coat the undercarrige w/ truck bed liner
  • Drop off rotisserie and test fit motor and transmission
  • Send to body shop to have panels straightened and color sprayed.

Now for the pictures. I took a pretty fair amount to start with. Here's the link to the full album: http://s590.photobucket.com/user/johndmetz/library/1600-2/1600-2%20Body%20Work/Post%20Soda%20Blasting


I found this number stamped in the nose on the drivers side. I had never seen it before - the soda uncovered it. It reads '15 435' - Anyone know what that's all about?



The soda also uncovered this Golde part number stamping located just behind the sunroof crank on the top side:




You can tell a difference in the panels I hit with the abrasive wheel vs the soda/sand. Wheel is much more shinySAM_1710_zps17726cb4.jpg


so clean!




There is still a fair amount of undercoating that they couldn't easily get. I'm debating on wether or not to hit these areas with an abrasive wheel or if I should just paint over them. Mostly in the wheel wells, trunk and some in the transmission tunnel.
Trunk about half done:



Wheel wells still pretty beige:




Any thoughts out there on the subject? Is it ridiculous to get all of it or have I come too far not to? The areas in question are pretty flat and should be easy to clean. There are some areas on the car that the sand blasting exposed rust I didn't know about. These areas seem solid but who knows whats behind all that...



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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got the car in the first coat of primer after almost 3 weeks. I haven't even seen the car for more than a week and when we came in to get started there was a lot more flash rust than i had expected. The 'hold tite' product the soda blast shop applied should have kept flash rust at bay for more than a month. After being bummed for a minute I got out the grinder and took it all off. Used some rustoleum converter paint for the hard to reach areas and then we put it in etching primer. Should be good to go with no problems.


The rotisserie made the whole process a breeze. We were able to start out with the car tilted driver side down, then no tilt, then tilted passenger side down. After 3 passes we were confident everything was coated.


We also started cutting out rusty metal and replacing with good metal but didn't get very far until we needed to switch gears and get the body into primer since we were running out of daylight.


With any luck we will be able to shoot the doors, front fenders, hood, trunk lid, and sunroof w/ etch primer and put a few coats of 2k primer on the body.


To complete by 6/23:

--Doors/Fenders/hood/trunk lid/sunroof - etch primer

--Body - 3(?) coats 2k primer

--Doors/Fenders/hood/trunk lid/sunroof -3(?) coats 2k primer

--Tear down/paint/rebuild front and rear subframes

--Spray truckbed liner on undercarrige/wheel wells

--Install Suspension


Now for some pictures. Full album of pics from tonigh Here








I also found another Golde part number. This one was stamped in to the rearmost ceiling rib.

Edited by dasfrogger
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got a bit more done today, but I did a pretty bad job at taking pictures... The body has now been covered with 1 coat of etch primer and 1 coat 2k primer. The doors, fenders, trunk lid, hood, and sunroof have been covered with 1 coat of etch primer and 3 coats of 2k primer. Will probably put 2 more coats of 2k primer on the body, but will do some more body work first.


We decided that we don't need to put a 2nd coat of primer on the underside or the inside, but i still wanted the porus primer to be well covered. I had 16oz of POR15 laying around so we decided to spray that. It streched as far as the entire underside, drivers front wheel well and inner fender, and most of the engine bay. I'm ordering some more por15 for next week and we will spray a 2nd coat underneath, spray the interior and remaining wheel wells, let it dry and then spray a 2nd coat later in the day.










We pressure washed 2 years worth of grime and primer dust off the rebuilt subframes from the chicago car. They're looking pretty good at the moment, but there are some spots where the thin coat of paint has worn and rust has started forming. Next week I'll go thru and POR 15 to make it durable and keep rust at bay. There are some chips on the IE sway bars, I need to find a color blue that will be a good match too. Of course I didn't take any before/after pictures. Whoops.


Since I'm replacing the coil over modified stock struts w/ a tii pair we pulled them off and yanked the strut inserts. Anyone able to identify these? I did a brief search and couldn't turn anything up.





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Since this was a seperate project I figured I'd give it it's own post.


I got to finish up a small father/son project today. I've had a little more than two cars worth of glass sitting around and had been talking about building a glass rack for awhile. After my dad saw how much there actually was he offered to help me out. All of a sudden he sent me an email with plans he'd created after doing a researching what they look like and how they need to work. Total surprise. It's been awhile since i've made anything with my dad and It was a lot of fun to have a project like this. My younger brother even came out today and helped us finish things up!


In accordance with the trend of today, I didn't take very comprehensive pictures. If I remember I'll go over and take some better ones to add later.

Some of the raw materials. We cut the dowel rods to 24" and the foam fits overtop.


We drilled holes every 3 inch deep holes every 3 inches. We left a final section blank so we can add a handle to push the cart or just a place to tie a rope to pull it.


Shot of everything prepped for assembly.

Put a bit of wood glue inside the holes, then around the edge of each rod and tapped them into place.


We cut a slit on either side of the foam and installed it on every other dowel, which covered the rod and split at the base to provide cushon for the glass. Trimmed the excess at the top of the dowel and used that to cover the othe rods.


Add glass, and VIOLA! (inside joke)


Now i've got a safe place for my glass that's easy to move around the shop!

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