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oil temp sender ?


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Advantage of pressure sender so near to pump is debatable. You could have a main bearing fail and not detect it via a loss of pressure as you would be measuring straight off the pump and into the filter.  A pressure reading here only really provides detail of the state of the pump. 

 

Where the pressure is taken off at the back of the head is more worthwhile. This being at the end of the oil riser to where the oil stops being under pressure (from the rocker spray bar). This then includes the whole system for measurement. 

 

 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Thank you both for the prompt responses.  When you say to take the pressure reading off the back of the head, do you mean I should use the sensor port next to the distributor, or is there another spot?  I'd like to keep that area uncluttered, since I seem to spend a lot of time over there.  

 

I know should really just search... sorry.  I wanted to show off what I did yesterday.

 

Toby, you also gave advice about removing that pump bracket, a while back.  I sure am glad to have that out of there.  I am thinking I should try aluminum sand casting and melt that sucker down, to pour it into another Weber air filter adapter; since they don't make the kind I like anymore.  How hard could it be?  I made an ice cream scoop in Jr. High... :unsure:

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Yup. The spot where the idiot light sender goes. What about adding a hose to a manifold block located on the firewall. This can carry a range of senders clear of the engine. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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20 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Tom, as always, your workmanship's impressive.

Drill press not withstanding... ;)

 

I run a long- nose oil temp sender in that spot, just because taking

pressure at the back of the head seems like a great way to make sure

there's oil all over the engine.

 

And I THINK that temp thingus under the manifold is a switch, not a 

sender.  But it will say on its side...

 

t

 

 

Yes, but a great place to add a temp sensor out of the way, not as good as the water diverter but a good secondary stealth location, needs to be re-tapped though if you use a Mechanical sender:

 

IMG_6376.thumb.JPG.e04c553c09111fbb28b0826c22964526.JPG

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Interesting idea Simeon.  There might be an opportunity for some creative plumbing there.  I will mull this one over.  

 

I do not have the gauges yet, so no hurry.  I just figured I would drill/tap the filter mount while the filter was off.  It might be a while before I actually put it to use.  I am curious about my oil pressure though... so maybe sooner than later.

 

Speaking of gauges... I think I might finally hear a slight exhaust leak!  Which means it'd be time for the downpipe to come out and have a bung welded in, for an 02 sensor.  (like I need to dig another rabbit hole) I also have a tii manifold to replace the air injection original unit.  I guess it makes sense to do that at the same time as removing the bracket.

 

Thanks for the idea chargin.  It seems easier to drill/tap the water divider, than to remove the manifold.  The second lug on the divider is right in front of the fuel pump outlet though, which is not ideal.  I think the fuel line could sneak by okay.

Edited by '76mintgrun'02

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Interesting.  That makes for a pretty tight fit next to the steering box.

I was considering using this filter, but it is a little too long.

053.thumb.JPG.971e2a5cf4f630e65e17200139ce83ba.JPG

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Pressure sensor in the drain plug?:blink: 

 

Seems a bit vulnerable down there.:unsure:

 

Temp sensor hOle is drilled and tapped and plugged for now.  

 

I read on here once, long ago, that Oil comes up to temp about four times slower than the coolant; so I try and baby it accordingly when just starting out.  

 

Oil pressure is something I have yet to test, so I am curious about that.

 

I could put a T by the disTributor and Take a reading there.  Someday.  Maybe.  

 

I like Rocan's enthusiasm about making Banjo bolts, early on in this thread.

That is how I feel now, with my new 10x1.0 tap ... and a die on the way, in the mail.

 

Mechanical plumbing is fun.  I have a lot to learn/look forward to.  They sure use a lot of different threads.  Tapered, straight, coarse to extra fine.  I am just beginning to get a mental feel for metric fastener threads/sizes.  It sinks in slowly, I guess.

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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1 hour ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Pressure sensor in the drain plug?:blink: 

 

Seems a bit vulnerable down there.:unsure:

 

 

Temp sensor, not pressure sensor.  A bit vulnerable? Maybe, but I don't recall ever bottoming the oil pan or scraping the drain plug on anything either. Of course, that being said, there's always a first time for everything. 

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8 hours ago, Simeon said:

Advantage of pressure sender so near to pump is debatable. You could have a main bearing fail and not detect it via a loss of pressure as you would be measuring straight off the pump and into the filter.  A pressure reading here only really provides detail of the state of the pump. 

 

Where the pressure is taken off at the back of the head is more worthwhile. This being at the end of the oil riser to where the oil stops being under pressure (from the rocker spray bar). This then includes the whole system for measurement. 

 

 

There's a reason BMW put the oil pressure sensor where it's located. It's the best place for it. Farthest from the pump, to alert the driver sooner of a problem, but without interaction from the rockers and cam spray bar to maintain consistency.

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Tom,

The temperature probe underneath the intake manifold is a Temperature Switch. It is normally closed when the coolant temperature is below 66C (150F), and opens at temps over 150F.

This is connected to the #85 terminal on the EGR switching relay...which controls the Red magnetic vacuum valve.... which then controls the 2-stage EGR valve.

If you don't have/need the EGR stuff, then just ignore this switch. It does look almost identical to the temperature sender on top of the coolant "T", but is very different....do not confuse the two!

John

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I ran a sandwich for a while- it does work, and even though it doesn't LOOK like it,

there's just enough room to change the filter without hassle.  Just.

 

I also had a temp sensor that WAS a drain plug, even had a VDO part number.

While I eventually replaced it with a brazed- in bung a few inches back,

it survived 3 or 4 seasons of jumping curbs.  I think the wire fell off once 

or twice, but that was the extent of the problems with it.  I left the sensor

in the pan because I already had a good baseline of 'what's safe in the pan' temps,

and the filter head location reads significantly higher.

 

A banjo bolt off the stock location is ideal- and a length of small high- pressure

line to a safe, lower- vibration location, where you can put all sorts of senders and switches.

That's how I did the E30...

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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  • 4 months later...

Getting ready to drill and tap my housing before I drop my engine/transmission back in the car. 

 

Im going to be running a VDO 150c temp gauge, anyone have a VDO part number they used, Im looking at 323-423 M10x1 but it looks a little long for the housing. 

 

https://www.egauges.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=323-423&CartID=6

 

Also anyone know what kind of connector I would have to use on that sender? description says .25 spade but that doesn't look like a spade to me

 

 

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