Jump to content
gebbiepress@pipeline.com

All I did was...remove/replace dizzy cap...and no start now.

10 posts / 1063 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

Folks, a thousand thanks in advance. My 76 CA stock everything car was running just fine until I removed my dizzy cap to see what the two vacuum lines did. Both seemed to pull in the same direction, so I assume it was working to specs, ie, no advance with a warm engine. Testing the black EM relay seemed to confirm this. I did mark the dizzy with hash marks to get it back in place, but it will not start now. Not off by 180 degrees, for sure. However, I am able to twist the rotot a bit, perhaps 1/4 to 1/2", but it snaps back to a certain position. I think I cleaned contacts and rotor, but as far as I can recall, this is the only thing I did (r/r dizzy cap) before it ran fine to not startting.

Anyone know any pitfalls I should be looking for? I am about to see if I have spark at #1 cylinder, but I'm guessing I will. Stock 76 CA car with egr blocked off, aur pump removed & blocked, elec. choke in place (water alson), and black EM valve in place an working, ie, advance with cold engine, no advance with warm engine. ??? MERRY CHRISTMAS!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you mean you cleaned contact points? if so, you probably need to reset/gap those. If you didn't touch the points, make sure the cap is snug., that's probably all I can think of at the moment

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you remove the rotor? If so, did you put it back?

Is the cap on snug? Did any leads come loose?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cap is keyed to the housing for rotation. Un snap the latches and rotate or try to rotate until it home in the key and re-snap the latches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Think Mike Self has pointed this out before... check to see if the little spring is still inside the top of the cap. No spring = no electrical contact with the rotor.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think the spring presses on a carbon pin. Ensure that is still there.

Ensure the condensor is still connected, inside the distributor and out

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You stated you removed the distributor,if you did it's the rotor that must go back into the same place,as well as the body..You need to mark the rotor position relative to the body.Rotate your engine till #1 is at tdc then make sure the rotor is pointed at#1 in the cap.then refit cap& time with a strobe light through the hole at the back of the block

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

THANKS to all. I just removed the cap, that's all. Spring was in place, I did not

fiddle with points or loosen anything. Just wanted to see what the 2 vacuum lines did. I thought one would move the workings in the opposite direction that the other line moved them (advance vs retard), but both did the same thing, so I gather that when warm, there is simply less advance due to one line being blocked by the black relay. ANYWAY, I did get it to start, it ran fine, but the test will be a cold start on Christmas morning ;>) A light throttle push always snapped the choke closed, and it would start in 2 or 3 seconds and warm up very smoothly. Light throttle presses would kick down the rpms, just as I remember my car back in...1976!

If it starts, I should probably stop trying to fix it ;>)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest Anonymous

THANKS to all. I just removed the cap, that's all. Spring was in place, I did not

fiddle with points or loosen anything. Just wanted to see what the 2 vacuum lines did. I thought one would move the workings in the opposite direction that the other line moved them (advance vs retard), but both did the same thing, so I gather that when warm, there is simply less advance due to one line being blocked by the black relay. ANYWAY, I did get it to start, it ran fine, but the test will be a cold start on Christmas morning ;>) A light throttle push always snapped the choke closed, and it would start in 2 or 3 seconds and warm up very smoothly. Light throttle presses would kick down the rpms, just as I remember my car back in...1976!

If it starts, I should probably stop trying to fix it ;>)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
If it starts, I should probably stop trying to fix it ;>)

I've started to adopt that philosophy as well but I can't stop myself! Good thing you got it running again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.