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Brake/Wheel Knocking/Scraping...no idea, please help.


SA2002Guy

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Hi Guys!

It's been months and months and months since I've driven or even looked at my 2Dub, and recently I came to the realization that I'm never going to get it to look 100%perfect without years and years of time and bucket loads of money. I always had this idea that the car needs to be 'perfect' and THEN I'd start driving it again.

I thought screw it, I'm going to do a couple of minor mods and fixes and then I'l use it. Which is what's happening now.

So about 2 weeks ago, I replaced the front discs and pads and bled the brakes. Everything was working fine afterwards (by fine I mean much better than before :)

I drove the car a few times since then, but never really long distances. On Friday I took it on its first 'long drive' in a while, about 120 kms, most of it on the highway. The last few kilometres on the highway were in chock a block traffic. Sitting through 40 minutes of that, at an almost standstill, with no overheating made me happy, but it was in those slow coasts at idle, that I noticed a knocking/scraping sound, that sounded like it was coming from the front right (almost certainly). It would get faster and faster as I gathered speed, so it was definitely as part of the wheels rotation that the sound was happening. I could also feel a slight bit of feedback of the 'knock' through the steering wheel. I also noticed that when I was on the brakes, the sound was gone.

Today, I decided I was going to see if I could find an issue, so I took it around the block (from cold) to see if I could hear the noise again....absolutely nothing.

Now my guess is that it was something to do with heat expansion from all of the driving, but no idea what component/part might be doing this.

Any ideas that you guys might have would be massively helpful.

Thanks

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1. Check whether the bolts on the calipers are tight. A loose caliper will behave as described.

2. With the car on jack stands, grab each front wheel at 3 and 9 o'clock, and wiggle it back and forth. If you get some knocking, inspect the lug bolts to see if they're tight, and the steering components for wear.

williamggruff

'76 2002 "Verona" / '12 Fiat 500 Sport "Latte" / '21 Toyota 4Runner TRD Off Road Prem “The Truck”

 

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are - were the caliper pistons free - easy to retract

when you replaced the pads/rotors ?

suspect a sticking piston - not free to retrat properly

after each brake application so you build up head,

pads drag, more heat.......

look at the rotors for blackening from over heating

blackened is good on your tuna or gizelle or yer rotors!

delete your other thread please

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
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While you have the front jacked up also check the wheel bearings for correct adjustment.

Grab the wheel at Noon and 6:00 o'clock and see if there is more than a little play. Should not move much at all.

If you do get movement go up above on this page and clic on Site Search.

Enter something like "front wheel bearings" and you'll get the info on proper adjustment. It's a fairly easy procedure.

Bob Napier

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Front wheel bearing?

Loose fasteners somewhere- wheel, disc, caliper?

Look for shiny spots- sometimes they'll tell you something.

Otherwise- and if you're SURE it couldn't have been coming from the back

(loose hub)

or the driveshaft

then change the wheel bearings.

Just 'cause.

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Hi guys, Ok, so this is what I found.

I put the car up and grabbed the wheel at 3 and 9 and there was a bit of wobble. I know that there is a bit of play in the suspension components. That being said, the play in the suspensions components has been there for a while and hasn't bothered me, and never made the knocking noises that I described in the original post. So, I want to say I am 99.9% sure it's not that.

I did take the wheel off and spun the hub. What happens is that is spins free for 90% of the rotation, and for the other 10% of the rotation the disc rubs on the pad. So there's an issue there. Whether or not it's the original issue I don't know, but it's an issue for sure.

Question is, how do I sort that out? Could that be related to the above mentioned possibility of loose caliper bolts? I didn't actually open the hub up ( I don't have the proper tools for all that, will have to go back to my mate and use his well sorted garage), so I didn't check the bolts.

Does this sound like it could be the root of the problem?

Also, I grabbed the wheel at 6 and 12, and wiggled...no play whatsoever.

Someone asked if the calipers were tight when we changed discs/pads, and yes they were. Looking at the new discs and pads with the wheel off, I'd say there's about 1mm of play between them (if not less).

Where to from here?

Thanks for all the help and advice!

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The reference above to checking the caliper bolts meant the two mounting bolts, which are easily accessible with a std. rachet and socket. They require a torque of 65#/ft, so a torque wrench is a good idea. This is the same torque you'd use on lug nuts on the wheels.

Bob Napier

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